You’ve done Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Koh Samui and Samet – so what’s next? A few Thai towns you might hardly have heard of. They’re all easily reached by plane, road or rail. John Borthwick shares his expertise.
Bang Saray, Chonburi Province
Laid-back Bang Saray on the Gulf of Thailand is 15 km, and a world apart, from party town Pattaya. Development is happening, but Bang Saray’s long, clean beach is not yet overshadowed by condos or its waters shredded by jet-skis. You can stroll its shaded shoreline of pop-up seafood eateries, fishing boats and flaming sunsets, and then do it again next day. There are beer bars and restaurants but you’re not really here for the nightlife and cocktails. The daylight attractions include golf, diving on the offshore islands or an excursion to the giant petroglyph icon of Buddha Mountain. Bang Saray is just two hours drive southeast of Bangkok. bangsaraycom
Chiang Khan, Loei Province
This old Mekong River port, 580 km northeast of Bangkok – or 50 km north of Loei city airport – stretches lazily along the shoreline like a cat on a couch. Facing Laos cross the river, the town’s old roaring days of rubber trading and opium smuggling are now well behind it, along with skirmishes with the colonial French and later communists. Today’s Chiang Khan has been well and truly “discovered” by nostalgic Thais, especially its riverfront Chai Khong walking street with intact but tricked-up, century-old teak warehouses. Weekends in particular are busy. There’s a spectacular new Riverside Skywalk 20 kilometres out of town. Or just stroll Chiang Khan’s riverside promenade beneath the sunset or morning mist.
Hat Yai, Songkla Province
Hat Yai sits inland from Thailand’s South China Sea coast. You’re in the “deep south” here, almost a thousand kilometres from Bangkok, and the optics are very different to those in the rest of Buddhist Thailand. Think, mosques instead of wats, and more hijabs than T-shirts. The Malaysian border is even further south, but Hat Yai town already has that frontier feeling of transience and perhaps guilty pleasures, with gold shops galore, bargain shopping and the latest Thai thing, cannabis boutiques. Meanwhile, the spicy southern food is exceptional, the people courteous and getting here by train is an adventure.
Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima Province
Khao Yai, around three hours’ drive north of the Thai capital is the go-to destination for Bangkokians when it comes to wine – both the making and drinking thereof. The local boutique wineries produce surprisingly good “new latitude” wines, so sign up for a vineyard tour and tasting, which almost inevitably also involves buying and consuming, and overnight stays. The pioneering PB Valley and family-run GranMonte wineries offer good dining and accommodation options. While you’re there, don’t miss Khao Yai’s huge national park (Thailand’s first) with its dramatic waterfalls. khaoyainationalpark.com/en
Laem Mai Phim, Rayong Province
You’ll find this snoozing shoreline on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand, well south of Pattaya and Koh Samet. Or, about three hours drive from Bangkok. It’s a quiet peninsula with empty beaches and offshore island diving sites that include a wreck dive. One of the best beaches, adjacent to Ao Khai (“Egg Bay”) fishing village, is a tree-lined shore where two fishing boats, three kayaks and a strolling couple almost constitute a crowd. There are good resorts and several seafront restaurants along this by-passed shoreline. If there’s little by way of nightlife, well, who cares? thailandguide24.com/mae-phim
Nan, Nan Province
You can reach Nan, the capital ofNan Province via a long, looping drive from Chiang Mai.Established in 1282, Nan was once the capital of an independent Lanna kingdom and is still rich with Lanna-era temples, as well as historic teak mansions. Wat Phumin, built in 1569, is Nan’s most photographed “icon”, with its bold murals depicting the lives of the Buddha, plus secular images from the 19th century, including European sailing ships and costumes. Dine memorably on the banks of the Nan River on the northern speciality, khao soy ghai chicken noodles. Meanwhile, white-water rafting is big on the same river during June and July.
Ranong, Ranong Province
This fishing and trading port on the Andaman Sea about five hours north of Phuket has been bypassed by over-tourism. Known, by tourists, mostly as a departure point for more celebrated Andaman destinations, little Ranong’s own attractions include classic Sino-Thai-Portuguese shop-houses and Chinese temples. There’s a reconstructed old timber palace, the local hot springs are indeed hot and there’s good trekking to the waterfalls of Ngao National Park. The resort island of Koh Phayam sits just offshore, Myanmar is just across the river and live-aboard dive boats depart from Ranong to the spectacular Richlieu Rock.
Sichon, Nakhon Si Thammarat Province
It sits on the western side of the Gulf of Thailand just below Koh Samui and “Tranquil Tourism” might be the local guiding principle. Low-rise, seafront resorts offer kitesurfing, SUPs, snorkelling and diving while rare, pink Indo-Pacific dolphins cruise the protected waters of nearby Hat Khanom National Park. Sichon is scrumptious seafood central, so pack an appetite. Meanwhile, Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Ai Khai Wat Chedi, aka “the Chicken Temple”, is extraordinary – it’s long story, just go see its thousands of chook statues donated in thanks for prayers answered or “good luck” granted.
Sop Ruak, Chiang Rai Province
Sop Ruak on theMekong River in Northern Thailand, east of Chiang Rai city is better known as the Golden Triangle. Stand here at its apexand you can see why – three nations (Thailand, Laos and Myanmar) and two rivers (Mekong and Ruak) meet there. This low-key town offers boat excursions, markets, restaurants and, almost inevitably, a Big Buddha statue overlooking the confluence of cultures and waters. Don’t miss the Hall of Opium Museum that recalls the region’s infamous smuggling history. Meanwhile, the nearby Anantara resort’s elephant camp sets the standard for ethical interaction with the big beasts.
Sukhothai, Sukhothai Province
Sukhothai, the first capital of ancient Siam enjoyed a golden age from 1238 to 1378, during which this Camelot-like kingdom became the cradle of Thai art, architecture and language. Its Sanskrit name even means “Dawn of Happiness.” Today the exceptionally well preserved, World Heritage-listed ruins of old Sukhothai occupy a large archaeological park near the modern town of Sukhothai, 430 km north of Bangkok. Tall stupas, temples of intricate masonry and imperturbable Buddha statues rise from its lawns. Meanwhile, 50 km away, Sukhothai’s twin, Si Satchanalai is equally well-named – “City of Good People” – and is similarly rich with heritage-listed ruins.
Lampang, Lampang Province
Pony-drawn carriages (rot maa) trot past the 100-pillared Baan Saonak (“House of Many Pillars”), ageing teak buildings and the 1916 railway station. Lampang, 100 km southeast of Chiang Mai was once a major teak logging centre and its Kad Kong Ta road and remaining mansions are a reminder of those glory days. One building, “the Louis House”, is the 1905 villa of teak baron Louis T. Leonowens. Open to the public, its most dramatic feature is a huge vault containing an equally huge steel safe. With business booming, this was Louis’ impregnable piggybank. Overlooking the town is Wat Prah Putthabat Sutthawas, “the mountain guardian”. www.green-trails.com