Author: admin

Travel writer John Borthwick considers all options traveling on Thailand’s transports of delight and occasional despair.

Bicycle (City)

In Bangkok, sheer masochism. The Big Mango’s traffic is constant and intimidating; might is right and two wheels are “wrong” unless they’re attached to a motorbike. Chiang Mai’s traffic is safer.

Bicycle (Touring)

On the other hand, seeing Thailand by cycle is a joy, especially if you choose a flat, under populated province like coastal Prachuap Khiri Khan. There are numerous cycle tour companies like Spice Roads and Grasshopper Adventures.

Mass Transit, Bangkok.

The capital has an ever-expanding system of over 60 BTS SkyTrain and MRT metro subway stations that whisk you over or under the street-level snarls. They’re clean and air conditioned although often SRO crowded. The SkyTrain has a one-day Unlimited Pass for 140 baht that’s ideal for visitors; or a 120-baht pass for the MRT.

Canal Boat

Skinny canal boat ferries rocket along Bangkok’s khlong, making fleeting pit-stops at commuter wharves. Leap on and off — almost literally — at wherever stop you want. The conductor collects fares on board. This is a cheap-as-chips tour of Bangkok’s watery backdoors.

Car

Major international companies like Hertz, Budget and Avis, as well as local brands, offer late model vehicles (all are right-hand drive) for self-driving. But, for convenience and sightseeing, seriously consider hiring a car plus driver. Meanwhile, be sure to understand the insurance policy and always drive with your passport and international driver licence on you.

Coach or Bus

Long-distance intercity buses criss-cross the country. They are large, airconditioned, economical, colorful, have allocated seating and run to schedule (often on the hour), departing from large suburban bus stations like BKK’s Ekamai and Mo Chit terminals.

Inter-island Ferry

Travelling to poplar islands like Chang, Krabi, Kood and others is done by large ferry — some carry vehicles, others only people. Meanwhile speedboats (see below) serve the smaller islands. On some ferry services like Hua Hin—Pattaya you need to have official ID; for foreigners, this is your passport.

Longtail Boat

Rua hang yao are narrow-hulled craft with a howling diesel motor and long, extended propeller shaft — the “long tail”. They’re found everywhere from city canals to island beaches. Sit low, hang on, wear a life jacket if there is one and be prepared to cop some spray.

Motorcycle

Rental motorbikes are popular in most tourist centres and thus are a regular source of injured or demised foreigners. Understand: wear the helmet (it’s the law, despite all the Thais who don’t); stay sober (what could possibly go wrong?); don’t assume you have right of way; carry your passport and international driver licence on you (and never leave either one as “deposit”). Does your travel insurance cover you? The fine print very possibly says it doesn’t.

Motorcycle Taxi

Moto-si dudes linger on city corners wearing numbered, low-vis vests. State your destination. Then agree on the fare — prices start at about 40 baht for a short trip. Use the helmet. Settle back for a slipstreaming, tailgating, maximum monoxide view of the traffic stampede. Freaky fun.

Plane

Thailand has an extensive domestic air network serviced by good carriers like Nok, Thai Smile, Air Asia and Bangkok Airways.

River Ferry

Bangkok has two main ferry services. The local commuter service, the Chao Phraya River Express is quick, crowded and cheap. It services numerous whistle-stop wharves and an on-board conductor collects fares. The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat is visitor-oriented and stops at piers near all main attractions — a one-day pass for 200 baht is recommended. The main departure point is Central Pier, at Saphan Taksin Bridge.

Songtaew

In many places the most popular and economical form of suburban travel is the songtaew — “two seat” — a canopied light pick-up truck with two bench seats in the rear. Generally, they run on local circuit routes and passengers join and alight at any point, paying a flat fee. In Pattaya (where they are also called “baht buses”), for instance, the fare is 10 baht for Thais and foreigners alike. In other tourist destinations you might encounter invidious “double pricing” for foreigners.

Speedboat

Large passenger launches, with a canopy and powerful outboard motors, service smaller islands and daytrip excursions. They are fast and reliable but can be a bit crowded. Grab a life jacket and wear it. Make your reservation in advance.

Taxi

Bangkok meter taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Many drivers speak little English so it’s good to have your destination address written in Thai. Be sure the meter is on (flag-fall, 35 baht); if the driver won’t use it, just hop out — the next cab is about one minute away. Things are more difficult on some popular islands where most taxis won’t use the meter and demand extortionate fares; try to use your hotel transfer service instead.

Tuk-tuk

The iconic tuk-tuk (real name samlor, “three-wheel”) is unmetered and drivers will charge whatever they think they can. Usually more expensive than a meter taxi. Don’t start your ride without agreeing on the fare. Mutant tuk-tuks are sometimes called Skylabs, such as on Koh Si Chang.

Van

Intercity passenger vans are fast, furious, frequent and risky. They have a dubious safety record (in a country with one of worst road tolls anywhere). Flyer beware. Catch the bus or train instead.

Train

Thailand has a good rail network and rail travel is a great way to see the country and to meet Thai people. Trains run on time and are clean, even if a bit aged. The Bangkok—Chiang Mai Express is the classic rail journey, a 750-km night ride that will rock you on the narrow, one-metre gauge track. Reserve your seat in advance especially if travelling near public holidays; for convenience (and a small fee), book through an agent.

Words and photographs © John Borthwick 2020

Guest blogger John Borthwick finds a tiny island surprisingly close to Bangkok.

Like all good islands little Ko Si Chang has a story. Being only 120 km from Bangkok, it was a favoured hangout for Siam’s aristocracy in the late 19^th century. Kings Rama IV, V and VI used it as a weekender, often for pretty long weekends. By the way, Ko Si Chang (aka Ko Sichang) is not to be confused with Ko Chang, the much larger resort island further south in the Gulf of Thailand.

The royals built palaces and gardens, with Rama V — King Chulalongkorn — being the most prolific constructor. And today you can wander the beautifully restored terraced parklands, ponds and gardens that he created around his (now-demolished) Chudhadhuj Rajthan palace.

During the 1890’s the neighbourhood’s French colonials were in an expansive mood. Adding a few more Gulf islands to their Indochine collection, which already included Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, appealed. They only briefly occupied Ko Si Chang, but thereafter the Siamese court largely curtailed their sojourns.  

The local mutation of Thailand’s famous, three-wheeled tuk-tuk is known here as a “Skylab”, suggesting a pile of motorised space junk — which they’re not. They trundle along Si Chang’s narrow concrete paths with no worries about cars or trucks because there are none, just Skylabs and motorcycles. My pilot drops me at Chudhadhuj Rajthan amid the pavilions and walkways where kings once strolled and Thai romantics still do. Nearby, facing the sea is Mai Rim Talay (“Wooden House by the Sea”), a photogenic green and white pocket palace that was probably a royal guesthouse.

“This used to be a fishing island,” says my driver. “But the Gulf has been fished too much.” Like many among Si Chang’s 5000 residents he now looks to tourism for his income. There are numerous home stays cross the 25 sq km island. I’m staying somewhere called — yes — Somewhere, Si Chang’s newest and most stylish little hotel. With louvres and tiles in blue, and white marine architecture, it has just 20 rooms, pool, restaurant and the best Skylab on the island, a customized goer that you’d never call space junk.

Surprisingly, given the island’s proximity to Bangkok, there is no escarpment of glitzy beachfront resorts. Si Chang has been “saved” from becoming a tropical tourist purgatory by its lack of good beaches. Its lone decent stretch of sand (and by Thai standards not a particularly flash one) is the narrow west coast strand of Tham Pang.

I hire a motorbike and continue exploratory orbits of the craggy island. The sea is everywhere. Monitor lizards and free-range pigs wander the road. The streets are rubbish-free and the homes brightly painted. I head up to the white “Buddha Footprint” temple perched on a ridge overlooking the sea. From here one can see survey a grand panorama of islands and a flotilla of cargo ships adrift between here and the mainland, 12km away.

So, what’s there to do on Koh Si Chang? Rattle around in a Skylab or motorbike. (Everyone leaves their keys in the ignition — with nowhere to run, there are no bike thieves.) Dine or have coffee in town or a sunset beer at the Chong Khao Khad viewpoint. Chat with the locals (there are few foreigners). In short, there are no big deal, gotta-do-see-buy imperatives on snoozy Koh Si Chang, a living, working Thai island.

Weekend escapees from Bangkok briefly swell the island population but, come Monday, this fragrant island is yours again. Tamarind trees instead of bling bars, one 7-11, one bank and a fleet of Skylabs. What less could one want?

Information: Get to Koh Si Chang by ferry from Sriracha, Chonburi, 100km southeast of Bangkok. The ferry takes around 45 minutes, costs 50 baht and runs hourly. See www.kohsichang.netWords and photographs © John Borthwick 2020