Slow and Sustainable in Chiang Rai

Tucked into the mountainous jungles of northern Thailand near the border of Laos and Myanmar, the city of Chiang Rai has always been the smaller, less glamorous cousin of the more popular Chiang Mai, largely ignored by international tourists and developing at a slower pace. Julie Miller shares five of Chiang Rai’s hidden sustainable treasures.

With its diversity of ethnicities, natural wonders, beautiful temples and rich culture untainted by over-tourism, Chiang Rai has really come into its own and is leading a new wave of sustainable and eco-tourism practices that are a beacon for the future of world travel.

Here are five hidden treasures and exciting initiatives that highlight the best of the northern Lanna culture and its connection to the land:

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1. Elephant Live Stream

The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation at the Anantara Golden Triangle has for over a decade pioneered the ethical treatment of elephants, with its camp where mahouts and pachyderms co-exist in a safe, peaceful and natural setting a benchmark of sustainability. With the COVID-19 crisis preventing tourists from visiting the elephants, GTAEF pivoted to bring the elephants to their many fans via a live stream. The footage following the elephants as they play, feed and bathe in the river is utterly charming and addictive, with input from local vets and experts adding an educational dimension. The live stream not only brings joy to elephant-lovers, it also prompts viewers to donate towards helping struggling elephants.

Phu Chaisai

2. Phu Chaisai Mountain Resort

Owned by a Thai designer of royal heritage, this lovely boutique resort set on 323 hectares in the misty Mae Salong mountains encourages immersion in the natural environment, incorporating wellness and lifestyle into the luxury holiday experience. Organic and sustainable are a way of life here; the resort has its own reservoir, a spring-fed waterfall, a tea plantation, fruit orchards and farmland, with the restaurant plucking fresh vegetables and herbs straight from its own kitchen garden. Activities include trekking, riding Mongolian horses on a neighbouring farm, private yoga sessions and a spa.

Chiang Rai monks on horseback

3. Monks on horseback:

Horses came to the Golden Triangle from China during the infamous drug-trafficking years, and their sturdy descendants are now not only used for tourist rides (see above), but are also the mount-of-choice for local monks, who ride into villages each morning to collect alms. The temple where these monks live, Wat Tam Pa Ar-cha Thong (Golden Horse Monastery), is located high in steep, remote hills, with the orange-robed monks and novices also riding down to Phu Chaisai Resort every morning to offer blessings to guests.

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4. Doi Tung

The most famous of the Royal Projects of the Princess Mother, Doi Tung was established in 1988 to provide alternative forms of employment for ethnic minorities who were forced into the illicit drug trade, empowering local villagers to create change and restoring the ravaged environment. The result is a vision of beauty, 15,000 hectares of cultivated gardens, coffee plantations, re-established forest and artisan workshops centrepieced by the Princess Mother’s teak Royal Villa, which now tells the story of the project. Thirty years after the inception of the program, Doi Tung is now a model of sustainability with a zero waste to landfill mantra, managed by a new generation of local leaders.

Posted by Jinnaluck Miracle of Saa on Friday, 20 December 2019

5. Jinnaluck

Jinnaluck is a burgeoning family-run cottage industry that produces and exports sublime paper products for the local and international market. Starting as a backyard venture over 25 years ago, it now employs more than160 local people, incorporating all aspects of paper production from growing raw materials, to making the paper, design and sales. The company is one of the largest mulberry, or saa paper producers in Thailand, with more than 3000 handmade products, including business cards, carry bags, wrapping paper, wallpaper and even gold-infused face-masks – available at their sales room near Mae Sai. Visitors can also undertake a paper-making workshop, a memorable and meaningful travel experience.

The Best Rooftop Bars in Bangkok

Rooftop bars are a common sight across the world, yet few cities do them quite as well as beautiful Bangkok. These sanctuaries of calm high above the busy streets below allow you to experience the magic of the city from an entirely different perspective… not to mention enjoy some deliciously inventive cocktails too. Travel writer and Repeat Traveller Chris Ashton shares his pick of the best.

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From the dizzying heights of Sky Bar by Lebua to the glamour of a bygone era at The Speakeasy, these are the rooftops hideaways worth adding to your Bangkok wish list.

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Sky Bar by Lebua

If you’ve scrolled through #bangkok Instagram results anytime in the last few years, there’s a good chance you’ve seen this showstopper in Bangrak. Sky Bar is iconic – the crowning jewel atop the 63rd floor of Lebua State Tower. A by-product of its Insta-fame means it tends to get pretty busy in the evenings, but it’s worth the wait once that view reveals itself.

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Vertigo and Moon Bar

Banyan Tree is a name synonymous with elegance and refinement, and the dazzling Vertigo restaurant and Moon bar atop the Banyan Tree Bangkok are no exception. Find yourself a candlelit table, order a signature cocktail like the Vertigo Sunset, feast on sumptuous seafood and steaks, and watch the city come alive as the sun fades into the horizon.

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Red Sky Bar

Fifty-six floors above the city atop Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Red Sky Bar is a treat for the eyes as well as the tastebuds. Though impressive by day, it comes alive with the setting sun. A spectacular 360-degree view across the skyline, a sea of twinkling lights stretching out before you, it’s a perfect place to relax and indulge after a busy day of sightseeing.

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HI-SO Rooftop

Gazing out across the emerald expanse of Lumphini Park, HI-SO Rooftop Bar at Sofitel So is so hot right now. The 29th floor terrace is a place to see and be seen, to rub shoulders with the Bangkok glitterati, and then dance like no one’s watching to electrifying live DJ sets.

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Above 11

A whimsical retreat like one Alice might encountered in Wonderland, Above 11 overlooks the vibrant nightlife mecca of Soi 11 and beyond from its vantage high atop Fraser Suites Sukhumvit. The quirky décor, with giant steel trees and armchairs that could double for barrows, is like nowhere else in the city – and the Peruvian Japanese menu is to die for.

Bangkok Best rooftop Bars Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Above Eleven Rooftop Bar

The Speakeasy

Last but by no means least, The Speakeasy is a swinging presence on the 24th and 25th of Hotel Muse Bangkok, an M Gallery Hotel Collection property. A throwback to the 1920s prohibition era, it beckons you in with the sounds of smooth jazz and clinking martini glasses. It’s fun, it’s funky, and destined to become your new favourite drinking den. Ready to raise a glass or two at one of these ultra-glam hideaways? Be sure to dress to impress, and also call or check websites in advance for details on opening hours.

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10 Island Hopping Highlights for party-lovers in Thailand

The islands of Thailand’s Andaman Coast have plenty to offer those with an adventurous, fun-loving agenda in mind. Here are 10 highlights recommended by influencer (and party lover) Thatraveller Holly O’Sullivan.

1. Take the Plunge at LUB D’s Pool Party and party on down Bangla Rd in Phuket

LUB D hotel’s famous pool party is a good place to kick off an island-hopping Thailand adventure. A popular hub for backpackers, it is a great place to meet people that you’ll likely run across again on your Thailand travels.

From here, dive deep into Phuket’s nightlife on Bangla Road, which transforms by night into one big hectic walking street. There are bars of all shapes and flavours, some a little more risqué, some just like your classic Aussie pub.

2. Cocktails & rock climbing at Railay Beach, Krabi

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs, Railay Beach is only accessible by boat – the best way to get here is on a traditional long tail boat. The cliffs attract rock climbers from all over the world, so if you’re feeling active, head for the cliffs, or if you’d rather chill out, head for one of the beautiful white sandy beaches or grab a frozen cocktail at one of the beach-side reggae bars.

3. Go on a Bar Crawl on Phi Phi Island

Off the coast of Phuket, Ko Phi Phi may be a small island, but it’s big on nightlife. The island is a popular meetup place for backpackers, with beach bars, fire shows and plenty of free-pouring. Start your evening in town with a tasty Thai dinner and cocktails and bar-hop your way down the alleyways towards the beach.

4. Swim through an Emerald Cave on a 4-Islands tour in Ko Lanta

A 4-Islands tour from Ko Lanta takes in the islets of Ko Muk, Ko Kradan, Ko Cheuk and Ko Ngai. The tour starts on a high on the island of Ko Muk, as you float through the enchanting Morakot (Emerald) Cave into a secret hidden bay, a white sandy beach shaded by rainforest canopy. From this enchanted cave, it’s on to more island hopping the turquoise waters and white sandy beaches of Ko Kradan, Ko Cheuk and Ko Ngai.

5. See the famous Beach at Maya Bay, Phi Phi

While you may not have heard of Phi Phi Island, you’ve probably heard of ‘The Beach’, made famous in the 2000 Leonardo DiCaprio movie. Maya Beach itself is closed to tourists for an indefinite period of rehabilitation but until it is reopened you can explore the bay by boat.

6. Hike up to Ko Phi Phi Viewpoints

If you’re looking to exert yourself beyond the cocktail bars and white sandy beaches of Ko Phi Phi, spend a day hiking the Viewpoints. There are three viewpoints to hike to, which can be climbed in succession. If you want to see all three at a relaxed pace, you’ll want to allocate an entire day for this activity. The hike to the top can be tough, but the reward, the panoramic views from the summit make it well worth the trek.

7. Take part in a Muay Thai Boxing Comp on Ko Phi Phi

On Ko Phi Phi there’s a dedicated Muay Thai boxing bar where you can compete against each other and win prizes. If you’re not the competitive type, simply take in a few games over a beer or two. The Thai combat sport is also known as the ‘Art of 8 Limbs’ as it uses a combination of fists, elbows, knees and shins. The sport can be traced back to the 18th century but it became more popular in the late 20-21st century when introduced to the wider world.

Every major city in Thailand has Muay Thai venues, and if you don’t just happen to stumble across one while walking down the street, the bars advertise by driving vans around each day announcing the time and place.

8. Climb 1237 Steps up to the Tiger Temple (Wat Tham Suea), Krabi

1237 steps in the heat of the Thai tropics is not easy, but worth it to see the views at the peak, over Krabi’s mountainous landscape. The temple complex is a maze of natural caves, with the main temple atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the town below. The starting point for this walk is an experience in itself, as you pick your way through some cheeky resident monkeys. From here it’s mainly uphill, but the trail flattens out every so often, and there’s plenty of space at each corner to take a break in the shade.

Note: As a place of worship it is respectful (and required) to be modestly dressed. If you are wearing shorts you can rent a sarong at the entrance.

9. Relax in Krabi’s Emerald Pools and Hot Springs

The mineral-infused water of Krabi’s Hot Springs is said to have healing qualities, and they certainly provide a relaxing tranquil atmosphere, under a shady rainforest canopy. Make your way through a sequence of small pools of varying temperatures, gradually cooler as you make your way from the top down.

A trip to the nearby stunning Emerald Pool, in the Thung Teao Forest National Park, is worth it simply for the photo opportunity. A 2.7 km trail takes you through beautiful virgin rainforest before reaching the crystal-clear lake for a refreshing dip.

10. Eat your way through Thailand at Krabi’s night markets.

There are two daily night markets in Krabi Town. The first (and best) is opposite City Hotel on Soi 10 Maharat Road, with excellent street food stalls serving everything from pad thai to catfish curry, salads, soups and sweets. It’s also a good place to buy fresh fruit.

The second night market is more like an open air food court. A series of small restaurants with plastic tables and chairs on Khong Kha Road, next to the old Chao Fah pier. Between them, they serve a huge variety of dishes, and you can mix and match and sit down at any available table to feast.

One of the best ways for party-lovers to explore Thailand’s islands is on a Busabout tour with like-minded travellers.