Longtime Amazing Thailand blog contributor John Borthwick shares his best tips on Bangkok’s historic Chao Phraya River.
Bang Krachao It’s half a kilometre across the Chao Phraya from the tower blocks of Bangkok to the mangroves of Bang Krachao “island”, but it feels like another continent. Bang Krachao, a wetland oasis that sits in an oxbow-bend in the river is not an actual island. Join the Bangkokians heading here for food, drinks and handicrafts at the Sunday morning market, or hire a bicycle to explore its raised pathways and sights like the ageing Wat Bang Kor Bua temple. There’s limited accommodation but it’s a good day trip. thethailandlife.com
Kudijeen On the river’s west bank (“the Thonburi side”), the historic enclave of Kudijeen – aka Kudichin – is where 16th century Portuguese traders, missionaries and mercenaries became the first Europeans to settle in Siam. The architecture and a unique pastry live on. Kudijeen (“Chinese shrine village”) consists of narrow soi lanes and old teak houses, including the ancestral, family Baan Kudichin Museum. The domed, 1770 Santa Cruz Church and Wat Prayurawongsawat temple with its 60-metre stupa spire are open to all. And be sure to drop into one of the family bakeries that sells the traditional tart called kanom farang — “foreigner sweet”. baankudichinmuseum.com
National Museum of Royal Barges The most beautiful boatshed in the world. The Thai Crown’s fleet of gilded, 40-metre vessels is housed here. ”Barge” is not an adequate word for these works of art with their swan-necked prows and mythological figureheads. At rare intervals they glide for the extraordinary Royal Barge Procession, where a flotilla of 52 boats rowed by chanting sailors parades past the Grand Palace and its Camelot-like golden wats. The museum, in the west bank area called Bangkok Noi, displays eight intricate vessels; watch, fascinated as artisans maintain them. Royal Barge National Museam
Jack’s Bar Jack’s shack teeters on the brink of over-discovery at the end of Soi 42/1 Charoen Krung. Perch at a pew with a cold beer on a hot afternoon, then add spicy snacks, a breeze and longtails running riot on the river. Why leave, ever? There’s a wine list and democratic menu, plus music after dark. A parrot sits on the cashier’s shoulder – as they do. Capacity, about 30 people. Open noon til midnight. Jack’s is a ten-minute walk north from Saphan Taksin BTS station and next to the Shangri-La Hotel: a very Bangkok contrast.
Warehouse 30 A row of old warehouses in riverside Bang Rak has been transformed into galleries, design studios and smart retailers. There’s a bit of everything: art, craft beer, coffee, home decor, books and streetwear. The knockout retailer is Horse Unit & Woot Woot – forget about decoding the name – which looks like the world’s hippest army disposals store. It’s a dump-bin emporium of vintage military clobber, antique toys, vinyls, denim and furniture. Nostalgic, ironic and tons of fun. Warehouse 30 stretches between sois 30 and 32 Charoen Krung Road. warehouse30.com
Loy La Long This tiny hotel hides amid the piers of the river’s eastern bank. Its name implies “Let it be, let it go, let it flow”. This century-old, two-storey teak hideaway, a former warehouse, perched beside the River of Kings has six guestrooms creatively done in a style that might be called retrofunk steampunk. There are two sunny, river-view decks where you can dine, sip or just let your dreams drift downstream. A Chinese pagoda faces Loy La Long across the river and, surprisingly (or not – this is amazing Thailand), this unique, boutique bolthole sits in the grounds of a Buddhist monastery. loylalong.com
Rolling on the River One thing better than being beside a river is being on it. The Chao Phraya’s best public transport mode is the Smart Ferry, electric catamarans that carry up to 250 passengers. A convenient place to board is Sathon Pier beside Saphan Taksin BTS station (minesmartferry.com). Other river experiences range from boom-box dinner boats ablaze with neons to the Anantara Riverside’s stately, converted Manohra boats. This two-hour river cruise with superior Thai cuisine and occasional commentary is a special night out (manohracruises.com).
Meantime, local commuter ferries pull in and out of the local piers at Formula One pit-stop speed. More leisurely are the Chao Phraya Tourist Boats, a commentary ferry service that reaches all the major historic attraction piers. Again, Sathon Pier is a good starting point. chaophrayatouristboat.com
ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar Bangkok CBD bristles with ever-new rooftop bars.Meanwhile, on the Thonburi side of the river, and 31 floors above its restless comings and goings, enjoy a drone’s-eye view of both sides of town and, of course, its river of life. The Millennium Hilton’s ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar and Jazz Lounge is perfect for late-night cocktail meditations, often enhanced by a chanteuse weaving smoky jazz spells. hilton.com