10 Reasons to visit Sukhothai, Thailand’s ancient capital

Sukhothai_Historical_Park_Wat_Mahathat_01Thailand’s ancient capital, established in the early 13th century, Sukhothai is located 427km north of Bangkok, and literally means “Dawn of Happiness.” For 120 years Sukhothai was ruled by many kings, the most famous being King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, who created the Thai alphabet and laid the foundation for politics, monarchy and religion.

Here are 10 reasons to visit and 10 things to do in Sukhothai.

1. Sukhothai Historical Park.

In Sukhothai’s golden era, this city was the centre of south-east Asia and the ruins from that glorious time have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The park is home to ruins of royal palaces, Buddhist temples, historical monuments and the remains of ancient moats, walls, and city gates. A significant feature of the complex is Wat Maha That. Inside this temple is a grand pagoda surrounded by another 8 pagodas in the shape of a lotus, and at the front gate, a giant Buddha statue called Phra Atha Ros.

Sukhothai_Historical_Park_Light_Show

2. Ban Na Ton Chan Homestay

This homestay is located in Tambon Ban Tuek, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. Here you can experience the villagers’ way of life and their crafts. Khit cloth weaving in the ancient ‘Dok Phikun’ floral pattern, mud-soaked cloth making, basketry, wooden toys, and furniture made from tree roots and stumps. Visit the stray elephant nursing centre and seasonal fruit orchards.

Rice_farming_in_Sukhothai

3. Wat Si Chum.

This temple houses a large monumental stucco Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara called “Phra Atchana”, which is 11.3m in width. The roof has already disintegrated, exposing just four walls of stuccoed bricks. In the days of the Phra Ruang Dynasty, to boost morale of the ancient soldiers, monks walked through a hidden passageway and addressed people through a hole, making them believe the voice they were hearing was actually the Buddha.

Wat_Si_Chum_in_Sukhothai_Historical_Park_05

4. Si Satchanalai Historical Park.

A visit to Sukhothai wouldn’t complete without a visit to the historical site of the ancient Si Satchanalai City, the second largest city after Sukhothai during its golden days. The park is home to ruins of palaces, temples and domestic dwellings. Main attractions include Wat Phra Si Mahathat, Wat Chang Lom and Wat Chedi Jet Taew, all of which feature authentic Sukhothai architectural style.

Sukhothai_Historical_Park_Wat_Mahathat_02

5. Cycling in Sukhothai Historical Park.

One of the best ways to explore this archaeological site is by bicycle. There is a rental bike service in front of the Historical Park.

Cycling tour of Sukhothai

6. Loi Krathong and Candle Festival.

Sukhothai’s Loi Krathong is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include krathong or banana-leaf cup floating, a fireworks display, local games, processions, and traditional performances that reflect the lifestyle of the people as described in the stone inscription, as well as, a light and sound presentation.

Sukhothai Loi Krathong and Candle Festival

7. Sangkhalok Museum.

This private museum houses the most comprehensive collection of Sangkalok porcelains, a type of porcelain produced during the Sukhothai kingdom.

Sukhothai

8. King Ramkhamhaeng, The Great Momument.

This attraction tells the story of Sukhothai through models of historical buildings and structures, best explored by tram or bicycle.

Tra Phang Ngoen Temple is Located in Sukhothai Historial Park, Sukhothai

9. Ramkhamhaeng National Park (Khao Luang).

At 1200m above the sea level, this national park is great for nature lovers, with lush green mountainous landscapes, beautiful waterfalls and plenty of wildlife. It’s also home to several archaeological sites where several ancient tools and relics have been found, popular for historians and theologians.

Sukhothai_Historical_Park_Wat_Saphan_Hin

10. Sathorn Golden Textile Museum.

The impressive Sathorn Golden Textile Museum is owned by a retired textile broker, Sathorn Sorajprasobsanti. Many of the fabrics here were made in Ban Had Saew Village where the Tai Puan people built their community during the reign of Rama II, and were renowned for their hand-woven textiles.

10 best things to do in Hua Hin

Hua Hin was Thailand’s first ever seaside holiday destination, with the country’s first resort, the Railway Hotel, built here over 90 years and it remains a favourite for Thai locals and international tourists alike. Here are our 10 best things to do in Hua Hin.

1.Visit Wat Hua Hin, light some incense and pray for good fortune. Hua Hin’s most important temple was built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V)

2.Take in the sights, sounds and smells of Chat Chai market which sells everything from fresh vegetables, all manner of seafood to local handicrafts and school uniforms. Be sure to quench your thirst with a fresh coconut, usually around 20 Baht ($1).

Hua Hin Chat Chai market

3.Take a selfie outside the old Royal Waiting Room at Hua Hin Train Station which opened in 1911 and still holds its colonial charm. This grand-looking building that was used to welcome the King and his court when they visited the town.

Hua Hin Train Station

4.Go for a horse ride along the beach. At the entrance to the main beach area you’ll find ponies and horses of all sizes, available for hire for a walk or a trot along the white sandy beach.

Hua Hin Horse riding

5.Get your adrenalin pumping at Vana Nava Water Jungle, one of the largest water parks in Thailand, which also boasts the largest and longest water slides. As well as the thrills, there are water play areas for littlies and a unique ‘Aquacourse’, a course of ropes and challenging obstacles, combined with water guns.

Hua Hin Royal Summer Palace

6.Step back in time with a visit to Mrigadayavan Palace, the Summer Palace of King Rama VI. The Palace is currently being restored to its former glory, and there are lots of interesting artefacts on display throughout the sprawling complex. NB: Wear clothes that cover your shoulders and knees.

Hua Hin Cicada Market

7.Taste food from all over Thailand, browse through stalls selling arts and crafts and take in some live music at Cicada Market. This upscale market opens at 4pm on Friday and Saturday nights, and it’s very family friendly.

8.Get an ice cream at Plearn Wan – a two-storey wooden ‘vintage village’ that is a bit like Thailand’s answer to Coney Island or Brighton Pier. There’s plenty of stands upstairs selling ice cream and pancakes, and souvenir shops downstairs, as well as a Ferris wheel.

Hua Hin Plearn Wan

9.Have lunch on the beach at one of the many cafes and restaurants on Hua Hin Beach, have a swim while you’re waiting for your meal to arrive and wriggle your toes in the sand as you eat. Most cafés serve the same thing (Thai favourites such as Pad Thai, BBQ seafood, pasta, burgers or fries).

Hua Hin beach restaurants

10.Visit the Hua Hin night markets, taste some giant BBQ prawns and pick up a few souvenirs. The night markets stretch over two blocks, a few blocks down from Hua Hin Railway Station, and they’re a blast to the senses, a kaleidoscope of colour and cacophony of noises.

Hua Hin Night Market

Where to Stay: The Railway Hotel is now the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin, and while the hotel has grown significantly over the years, the original building still stands. At the centre of town, it’s a great place to stay.

Kanchanaburi awaits

Australian travel blogger Paula Morgan has turned her attention to Thailand, launching a new blog, Thailand Awaits, that provides information for travellers about Thailand’s many attractions.

Paula’s most recent Thailand adventure was in Kanchanaburi. You can read Paula’s complete guide to Kanchanaburi on her Thailand Awaits blog which includes detailed instructions on how to get there, where to stay and what to see.

Visit the Thailand Awaits blog for detailed instructions on how to get to Kanchanaburi.

What to see in Kanchanaburi.

River Kwai

The River Kwai, also known as the Mae Klong River, is a major tourist attraction in Kanchanaburi. Visitors can take a boat ride along the river and admire the beautiful scenery.

The Death Railway, also known as the Burma Railway, was built during World War II by prisoners of war and forced laborers from Japan and Myanmar. The railway is a major part of Kanchanaburi’s history and is now an important site visited by almost all who come to Kanchanaburi.

Bridge over the River Kwai

The Bridge Over the River Kwai is the most famous landmark in Kanchanaburi. The bridge was part of the Death Railway and is now a popular tourist attraction. Visitors can walk across the bridge and learn about its history.

Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum

Hellfire Pass is a section of the Death Railway that was cut through solid rock by prisoners of war and forced labourers. The pass is now a memorial site and there is an excellent museum, built by the Australian Government, that explains the story of what happened here and commemorates the lives lost during the construction of the railway. You can take a guided tour and learn about the history of the pass and then walk along the original tracks. To visit Hellfire Pass you are best to stay on the train to Nam Tok Station.

After you have paid your respects at one of more of the memorials it’s time to check out some of Kanchanaburi’s other sites.

Erawan National Park

Erawan National Park is about an hour outside Kanchanaburi. The park is famous for its beautiful waterfalls, including the seven-tiered Erawan Falls. You can hike to the top level and swim in many of the pools along the way.

Arrive early and expect to spend two hours here if you want to walk to the top-level waterfall. You could easily spend half a day if you decide to swim in some of the falls.

Wat Tham Suea – Tiger Cave Temple

One of the most spectacular of Kanchanaburi’s temples, Wat Tham Suea is a must. Known as the “Tiger Cave Temple”, this place is more than just a religious site; it’s a blend of nature, history, and art.

There are two stairways leading to the site but before you climb look for the one facing Kanchanaburi from the parking area — it’s a bit easier on the legs. If you have mobility problems, there is a small cable car that delivers you to the top for under 20 baht return.

Once you reach the top, there’s an amazing 18-metre-high gold leaf-adorned Buddha waiting to greet you.

Beyond the typical temple vibes, Wat Tham Suea has its own unique touch with its intricate carvings and relics. The summit offers a killer panorama of the surrounding mountains and vast rice paddies.

We made an offering and got a blessing from the monk while we were there. If you have never done this I recommend you do. This unique experience stays with you.

About the author: Paula Morgan has been travelling to Thailand since the mid-1990s and has fallen in love with the people, culture, and of course, the food. These days she visits as often as she can and is planning an extended stay in the country in 2024.

A greener Gulf of Thailand

Thailand is fast becoming a leader in responsible tourism, providing visitors a wide range of sustainable attractions, activities, and accommodation offerings.

Visitors to popular holiday destinations such as Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao can choose from carbon neutral hotels, take part in local conservation efforts, enjoy paddock to plate fine dining and support local communities.

Koh Samui

Koh Samui’s tourism operators and local communities are committed to low-impact, environment-friendly travel experiences, providing many ways for travellers to experience the natural beauty of this region sustainably.

A great example of this is the Samui Elephant Sanctuary. The sanctuary opened at Bophut in 2018 and is so popular that a second location has since opened in Chaweng Noi. Both venues are set amid forests, creating a safe retirement home for elephants that have served in the logging and tourism industries. Visitors can feed and walk with the elephants – or simply watch them enjoy their freedom as they socialise and romp in the muddy pools.

Koh Tao

Koh Tao has embraced a sustainable lifestyle for many years, proactively reducing waste and putting considerable energy into research and sustainability projects. Community gardens, organic composting, solar panel installations, and the natural production of biogas are just a few strategies some local businesses are using to decrease their consumption levels and work towards more sustainable practices.

The island now celebrates its world-famous marine environment with an annual festival, Spotlight Koh Tao, which in fact spotlights marine conservation issues. Visitors to the festival can choose from a selection of revitalisation activities, everything from beach clean-ups to zero-waste Thai cooking classes.

The island’s diving community were among the first to witness the effects of over-tourism, pollution and climate change on local reefs and have joined forces to monitor reef health, manage regular underwater clean-ups and nurture coral restoration projects. Some, such as Black Turtle Dive have taken this step further with the development of marine conservation courses, internships, and workshops for visiting divers.

Another sustainable activity for visitors is a tie-dying workshop with Coco Tie Dye. Tie-dying is a zero-waste endeavour and cottage industry that provides income for locals. The workshop provides guests with an understanding of the island’s natural resources, combining education with a fun and focused artistic activity.

Koh Phangan

Nestled between Koh Samui and Koh Tai, Koh Phangan is famous for its wild full moon parties but is now becoming better known as a hub for alternative thinking and eco-conscious travellers.

A great example of this is Indigo Coral House. A craft workshop and accommodation run by the passionate duo Fatimah and Matteo, the property was built using sustainable bamboo, with construction methods refined to minimise use of non-renewable resources.

The House is also a haven for Burmese refugees, providing a safe space for them to live, where they can learn craft techniques such as leaf printing and weaving so they can create their own pieces and sell them at the markets to make an income. Tourists are also invited to these workshops to about leaf printing, composting, and building with bamboo.

Thoughtful travels in Chiang Rai

Amanda Kendle, the producer responsible for the popular Thoughtful Travel podcast share her favourite three experiences in Chiang Rai in her latest episode – somewhere she’s wanted to visit her whole life.

 

1. The White Temple.

More art and architecture than temple, designed and funded by well-known Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. I try my best to describe it and there are some photos here – but you really do have to see it to believe it.

2. A day at Ahsa Farmstay, north of Chiang Rai city.

In this episode I explain what I loved about it and share an interview with one of the women who run it, Aun Wannamala.

3. Ban Pang Ha village in the northern tip of Thailand in Mae Sai.

At this community-based tourism initiative we enjoyed massages, facials, paper-making, great food and I chatted to Thiraphon Saraphrom about what makes Pang Ha so special.

Check out Amanda’s website for deeper insights into thoughtful travel in Thailand.

Thoughtful Travels in Thailand

Thoughtful travel blogger and podcast producer Amanda Kendle shares her experiences visiting Thailand for the first time post-Covid in the first of a series of podcasts inspired by her recent visit.

Three and a half years after my last pre-Covid adventure abroad, I finally managed to get out of Australia for a short media trip to Thailand. I’m home again now and celebrating that trip along with the milestone of the three hundredth episode of The Thoughtful Travel Podcast seems very appropriate.

In this episode I’ll tell you a little bit about my trip to Bangkok and Chiang Rai – more to come on these destinations in future episodes – and about how I felt to be leaving Australia. I’ve also included an extract from a chat I recently had with my friend Jean, who took her first post-Covid trip to Iraq a couple of months ago, and had lots of similar thoughts about this “new” travel experience.

Of course, I always try to be a thoughtful traveller, and like to divide ways to be thoughtful into before, during and after a trip, so in this episode I ponder how well I did with this, considering it was a trip that arose at fairly short notice. And finally, I ask our Bangkok guide Suree for her tips on how we can be thoughtful travellers in Thailand, and she has plenty of advice for travelling and, to be honest, for life in general.

Check out Amanda’s website for deeper insights into thoughtful travel in Thailand.

How to travel border-to-border in Thailand, entirely by train

Writing for Adventure.com, writer John Borthwick heads off on the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he can find.

The writer began his train journey in Nong Khai, northeast Thailand to travel from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he could find.

Borthwick’s Thailand railway travel tips include booking ahead, especially if close to Thai public holidays. “In sleeper class, choose the lower bunk; wider and slightly more expensive,” he says.

Here’s a short extract – you can read the full story at Adventure.com.

A red-hot sun bellyflops, slowly, into the Mekong. For a moment, I imagine the great mother river erupting, boiling itself dry like a thermo-nuclear tea kettle.

The river is as calm as a monk. And as the sun recedes, a thumbnail moon soon hangs in the dusk above it. Propped on the Thai shore with the lights of Laos coming on across the water, I ask myself, “Why leave?”

Arriving somewhere special, only to then leave it for somewhere else is the paradox that inhabits most of our travels. I’ve come to Nong Khai in northeast Thailand in order to leave—in this case on a train, and then on more trains, from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route I can find.

Every Thai train station has a gleaming brass bell. At 7.45am sharp, Nong Khai’s station master steps up to his one and gives it a resounding whack. Train 76 lurches forward, moving south to Krung Thep, aka Bangkok.

Arctic aircon, the way Thais like it, chills this second-class carriage. But the seats are padded, unlike the slatted benches of hard-arse class that I recall from years ago. A snappily-dressed conductor scans our tickets. My fellow travellers are mothers and kids, couples, and a rotating cast of snack vendors who work the aisles. Shun, a Japanese traveler in the seat next to me, soon pulls down his hoodie and barely stirs for the rest of the journey...

Read the full story at Adventure.com

All images: (c) John Borthwick

When Shakespeare Came to Koh Samui – via Chatbot

Our regular contributor, award-winning writer John Borthwick has fun imagining what might happen if William Shakespeare and other great scribes were to visit Thailand via a chatbot app.

Thailand, often shrink-wrapped by marketing tag-lines and so many S-words: Land of Smiles, Singha, sand, sex and so on. In search of fresh descriptions of this fine destination I logged into AI – artificial, alleged intelligence – to see if literature’s hottest wordsmiths could beat the common cliches.

I asked an AI chatbot to “do” Thailand in the style of famous writers. First off, the 19th century Australian bush poet, Banjo Paterson. Within 30 seconds the lit-bot was off and balladeering:

In Bangkok’s streets where the people meet,
The tuk-tuk’s beep and the vendors greet,
With a smile so wide and a heart so sweet,
In the style of Banjo Patterson’s beat

Ouch! Verses purple as the Aussie weed, Paterson’s Curse. Thailand’s great capital deserved truer grit than that, so I keyed-in “Bangkok, by William Burroughs” — a scary thought. The ghost of the mordant, American Beat novelist soon came out, growling.

The streets are alive with a frenetic energy that pulses through the veins of the city, drawing in the unwary and the curious alike. From the seedy bars of Patpong to the glittering temples, Bangkok is a place of extremes, where the sacred and profane collide in overload, a city that takes you to the limits of sanity and beyond.

Mercifully, Burrough’s dark prose wasn’t in his infamous Naked Lunch style, but it was still way better than the usual over-curated travel tropes. On a roll, I prompted the bot to have a go, improbably, at “William Shakespeare on Koh Samui”. The Algorithm-upon-Avon courteously obliged and poetically opined:

Here on this isle, a stage for love and fate,
Where travellers come to seek a new estate,
And where, amidst the shimmering tropical light,
A play of passion doth unfold each night.

Here Romeo and Juliet may meet,
Beneath the swaying palms and tropic heat,
Their love a flame that doth the world defy,
And passion deep that doth the soul untie.

Tropical tosh, agreed. But let’s give credit where it’s due: the bot was flash as a rat with a gold tooth when it came penning instant iambic pentameters.

Sticking with Thai islands as seen by British scribes, I dropped the radical novelist Jeanette Winterson into Koh Phi Phi. The AI voice switched to third-person voice, schmooze mode.

It was a perfect escape. She had come to Phi Phi to find solace, to escape the pressures of everyday life and immerse herself in the natural world … time seemed to stand still, Jeanette felt at one with the world around her. She closed her eyes, feeling the warmth of the sun on her skin and the soft sand between her toes.

If one could sue an algorithm, Winterson surely would have it up for aggravated banality. Undeterred, I pressed on, proposing a visit to Phuket by that superb chronicler of Tudor England, the late Hilary Mantel. The chatbot reckoned,

Mantel would see the layers of history that have shaped this island. From the ancient trade routes that brought Chinese and Indian traders to the recent influx of Western tourists seeking sun, sand and sea. She would delve into the darker side, where the excesses of tourism have taken their toll. She would see the towering resorts and flashy nightclubs, and the impact they’ve had on the island’s ecology and culture.

Fair enough. And not a swaying palm, mad monarch or headless ex in sight.

Hilary’s AI tale, however, proved more convincing than the next take, novelist Lee Child’s hard man Jack Reacher on the lam in mystical Phang Nga Bay.

Reacher, on the run from a dangerous criminal organization takes refuge in the caves that dot the bay … he discovers clues that lead him to a hidden treasure, and must use all his skills to outwit the criminals and claim the treasure for himself.

More like the blurb for Biggles Goes Troppo than Jack the avenger strikes again.

I persist with the “hero on holiday” theme, curious to see how Jo Nesbo’s Oslo detective Harry Hole might see a Thai airport.

A den of thieves and smugglers, where the worst of society came to hide. He made his way through the crowds, scanning for signs of trouble. He could smell the fear and desperation, a heady mix that made him feel alive. And then he saw her. A young woman, standing alone by the baggage carousel …

The AI bot had gone AWOL. Nesbo Noir had landed in Phnom Penh 1978, not the Chiang Mai of today. Instead, I dialled-up Chiang Rai, this time as from the pen of rock group Cold Chisel’s roadhouse poet, Don Walker.

I caught a plane to Chiang Mai
A city full of colour and light,
Temples gleaming in the sun
A thousand years of history, it’s a sight.

No cheap swine with a three-day growth could have done worse. Moving on, my final searches, Pattaya as seen by Salvador Dali (“where palm trees grow upside down”) and Hua Hin banged out in rap (“Yo, dude, listen up …”) were beyond comic, even for a robot.

Over a Singha and a dish of spicy somtam I reverted to old Banjo Paterson for an exit algorithm algorhyme:

So let us raise a glass to Thailand’s land,
With its beaches, rice fields and jungle grand,
And to the people who make it so damn grand,
In the style of Banjo Patterson’s command.

Sweet. Except that in Banjo’s time “Thailand” didn’t exist. The country was still Siam.

AI — must do better?

All images (c) John Borthwick.

Conservation Diving in Koh Tao

Travel writer Jarryd Salem, one half the hugely popular Nomadasaurus travel blog team, recently revisited Koh Tao to find out more about the region’s marine conservation programs and was inspired to undertake the Ecological Monitoring Course run by local dive centre Black Turtle Dive.

Jarryd shares his experience on the Nomadasauris blog – here’s a taster:

On my first visit to Koh Tao in 2014 I completed my PADI Rescue Course, along with my Wreck and Enriched Air (Nitrox) specialties to further advance my skills.

Now with around 100 dives under my belt, I returned in 2023 to dive as much as possible and document my experiences as I stepped into the world of conservation.

It’s no secret that I love Koh Tao, and it was a real pleasure to be returning to the place that almost became home and start to give back to the reefs.

Most of my time on this gorgeous island was dedicated to doing the Koh Tao Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) course with Black Turtle Dive, and it proved to be one of my most transformative experiences since first getting certified as a scuba diver more than a decade ago.

Finally, I began to understand the importance of marine conservation with firsthand experience, and how I could make a meaningful difference.

In this blog post, I’ll share my experience with the EMP course in Koh Tao, what I learned, and how it changed my perspective as a diver forever.

Table of Contents

The Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) is a specialised scuba diving course that focuses on the documentation and conservation of marine ecosystems.

Offered by the non-profit organisation Conservation Divers and conducted exclusively in Thailand by the experienced team at Black Turtle Dive in Koh Tao, the course teaches divers about the complex relationships within coral reef ecosystems, various marine species identification, and the techniques required for underwater surveys.

The Ecological Monitoring Program is traditionally a 4-day course and combines practical diving skills with in-depth knowledge of marine biology and ecological monitoring techniques.

The goal is to equip divers with the tools and understanding necessary to contribute effectively to ongoing conservation efforts, not just in Koh Tao but around the world.

The data collected during these reef surveys, which are done weekly in Koh Tao, are then uploaded to a government-approved database so that scientists can track the health of the reef over time.

I’ve since discovered that these are the same types of surveys conducted by marine biologists all over the globe, including at my home on Magnetic Island in the Great Barrier Reef.

It’s a hugely beneficial and worthwhile course, and I was beyond thrilled to be learning these skills.

Read Jarryd’s full story here.

All images (c) Jarryd Salem