May 2020 – Amazing Thailand

Off the beaten track in Ko Samui

Posted on 29/05/202007/01/2021 by admin

For those who want to see another dimension to island life, Travel Writer Julie Miller takes us off the beaten track in Ko Samui.

Coastal life is sweet in Ko Samui, with an abundance of chic resorts, lively bars and restaurants and boutique shopping just steps from pristine white crescents of powder-white sand. For many visitors, this is the recipe for an idyllic, decadent holiday; but for the adventurous, or those who simply want to see more of the island, the interior of Ko Samui presents another dimension to island life, one that offers a deeper connection to Thai culture and the landscapes that make Thailand such an intriguing destination.

Samui is a relatively small, round island, easily explored by rental car (motorcycles not recommended unless you’re a licensed rider). One main ring-road leads to all the major sights and beaches, but swing off the highway into the heavily-jungled mountainous interior for spectacular views and some respite from the coastal chaos.

Before you leave the shoreline, you can’t miss two of Samui’s most popular – if somewhat questionable – attractions. One is a mummified monk, resplendent in orange robes and Rayban sunglasses, propped up in a glass case outside Wat Khunaram; the other is two natural rock formations near Lamai Beach, called Hin Ta and Hin Yai. Ta (Grandfather) is a stumpy phallus rising provocatively amongst some coastal boulders; while Yai (Grandmother) is a large crevice awash with sea water, seemingly awaiting grandpop’s attention. A curious landmark to become an attraction – but hey, this is Thailand!

A popular place for families to relax and swim is the scenic twin waterfalls, Na Muang #1 and #2. Located about 12 kilometres inland from Nathon Bay, the first falls are just a short walk from the carpark, with the upper pools accessed by a more challenging hike rewarded by incredible views from the top. With vendors selling snacks and drinks nearby, it’s easy to spend a whole day cooling off at these falls, with the best time to visit during peak water-flow from September to November.

Hidden deep in the interior of Ko Samui is a secret sculpture garden, filled with images of deities from Buddhist mythology and fantasy creatures. The Secret Buddha Garden is the creation of retired durian farmer Nim Thongsuk, who started decorating the garden in 1976 and continued until his death in 2000 at the age of 91. Getting to this intriguing fantasyland can be challenging – the road is steep, best tackled in a 4WD vehicle. Alternatively, you can visit the gardens as part of an adventure day trip in an open jeep.

The Fisherman's Village in the Bophut area is one of the best-known tourist attractions in Koh Samui and home to a popular Friday walking street market.

For a taste of ‘real’ Thailand, head to Bophut on the island’s north coast on Friday evenings, when the working fishermen’s village is transformed into a ‘walking street’ marketplace. It’s fun and crowded, with local handicrafts, trinkets, clothing and delicious street food sold in dozens of stalls lining the main street. Stop off in a bohemian village bar or dine at one of its funky restaurants such as Cafe 69, 2 Fishes or Happy Elephant.

Speaking of happy elephants … Bophut is also the location for the Samui Elephant Sanctuary, one of two ethical rescue centres on the island in partnership with renowned conservationist Lek Chailert from Chiang Mai’s Elephant Nature Park. Both the sanctuary in Bophut and the newly opened Chaweng Noi location provide a dignified and safe retirement home for elephants who have been given a reprieve from a hard life in the logging and trekking industries.

At both sanctuaries – accessible only by pre-arranged tours – visitors can observe the gentle giants relishing their freedom, playing in the mud, bathing in a purpose-built pool and walking and foraging in the forest. The program is mostly hands-off to allow the elephants a stress-free existence, but guests can join in the daily feeding program for up-close and intimate interaction with these incredible beasts.

Exquisite Thai Flavours: Heritage, Traditional & Modern

Posted on 28/05/202006/01/2021 by admin

With a wealth of history, culture and culinary artistry, there’s much more to Thai cuisine besides the popular staple dishes; Pad Thai, Tom Yum and Green Curry. Each Thai region has its own distinctive recipes and dishes that embody its unique culinary heritage and traditions as well as locally grown produce and ingredients. Restaurateur Chef Mod, originally from Central Thailand, travelled Thailand’s four regions to study the rich myriad flavours. He share his insights with Asian Inspirations.

“I used to be chubby because I love to eat. My favourite dish from grandma is Khai Palow (Five-Spice Egg and Pork Belly).”

As he grew older, so did his passion for food and cooking.

“I study herbs and cooking styles from different places. I used to stand next to the street stalls and watch how they cook.”

According to Chef Mod, Thai cuisine is heavily influenced by neighbouring countries. For example, dishes of the Northern Thai Yai ethnic group have their roots in Burmese flavours; and most Thai noodle dishes are Chinese influenced. Generally, Southern Thai food is spicier and stronger than Northern. Thai Royal traditional cuisine also forms a great part of Thai culinary culture, which in recent years has become more popular in restaurants.

“In Thailand, we call the three main ingredients; coriander roots, garlic and white pepper ‘The Three Musketeers’. As for chilli, fish sauce and shrimp paste, they are the other 3 essential ingredients for most Thai dishes.”

To access Chef Mod’s easy-ingredients recipes for all the dishes pictured here, visit the Asian Inspirations website.

Ko Si Chang, Ko Sea Change

Posted on 20/05/202006/01/2021 by admin

Guest blogger John Borthwick finds a tiny island surprisingly close to Bangkok.

Overview of Koh Si Chang town and harbour with Buddhist pagoda in foreground.

Like all good islands little Ko Si Chang has a story. Being only 120 km from Bangkok, it was a favoured hangout for Siam’s aristocracy in the late 19^th century. Kings Rama IV, V and VI used it as a weekender, often for pretty long weekends. By the way, Ko Si Chang (aka Ko Sichang) is not to be confused with Ko Chang, the much larger resort island further south in the Gulf of Thailand.

The royals built palaces and gardens, with Rama V — King Chulalongkorn — being the most prolific constructor. And today you can wander the beautifully restored terraced parklands, ponds and gardens that he created around his (now-demolished) Chudhadhuj Rajthan palace.

During the 1890’s the neighbourhood’s French colonials were in an expansive mood. Adding a few more Gulf islands to their Indochine collection, which already included Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, appealed. They only briefly occupied Ko Si Chang, but thereafter the Siamese court largely curtailed their sojourns.

Uncrowded Tham Pang Beach on Ko Si Chang west coast.

The local mutation of Thailand’s famous, three-wheeled tuk-tuk is known here as a “Skylab”, suggesting a pile of motorised space junk — which they’re not. They trundle along Si Chang’s narrow concrete paths with no worries about cars or trucks because there are none, just Skylabs and motorcycles. My pilot drops me at Chudhadhuj Rajthan amid the pavilions and walkways where kings once strolled and Thai romantics still do. Nearby, facing the sea is Mai Rim Talay (“Wooden House by the Sea”), a photogenic green and white pocket palace that was probably a royal guesthouse.

Customised “Skylab” tuk-tuk.September 2017.

“This used to be a fishing island,” says my driver. “But the Gulf has been fished too much.” Like many among Si Chang’s 5000 residents he now looks to tourism for his income. There are numerous home stays cross the 25 sq km island. I’m staying somewhere called — yes — Somewhere, Si Chang’s newest and most stylish little hotel. With louvres and tiles in blue, and white marine architecture, it has just 20 rooms, pool, restaurant and the best Skylab on the island, a customized goer that you’d never call space junk.

Gilded statues at Buddha’s Footprint temple overlooking Ko Si Chang harbour.

Surprisingly, given the island’s proximity to Bangkok, there is no escarpment of glitzy beachfront resorts. Si Chang has been “saved” from becoming a tropical tourist purgatory by its lack of good beaches. Its lone decent stretch of sand (and by Thai standards not a particularly flash one) is the narrow west coast strand of Tham Pang.

I hire a motorbike and continue exploratory orbits of the craggy island. The sea is everywhere. Monitor lizards and free-range pigs wander the road. The streets are rubbish-free and the homes brightly painted. I head up to the white “Buddha Footprint” temple perched on a ridge overlooking the sea. From here one can see survey a grand panorama of islands and a flotilla of cargo ships adrift between here and the mainland, 12km away.

Trawlers beside long That Bon pier, Ko Si Chang town.

So, what’s there to do on Koh Si Chang? Rattle around in a Skylab or motorbike. (Everyone leaves their keys in the ignition — with nowhere to run, there are no bike thieves.) Dine or have coffee in town or a sunset beer at the Chong Khao Khad viewpoint. Chat with the locals (there are few foreigners). In short, there are no big deal, gotta-do-see-buy imperatives on snoozy Koh Si Chang, a living, working Thai island.

Weekend escapees from Bangkok briefly swell the island population but, come Monday, this fragrant island is yours again. Tamarind trees instead of bling bars, one 7-11, one bank and a fleet of Skylabs. What less could one want?

Information: Get to Koh Si Chang by ferry from Sriracha, Chonburi, 100km southeast of Bangkok. The ferry takes around 45 minutes, costs 50 baht and runs hourly. See www.kohsichang.netWords and photographs © John Borthwick 2020