Here is our newest development with the lifting of Thailand’s entry requirements.
From 1 July 2022 foreign nationals are only required to show proof of either a Certificate of Vaccination (for fully vaccinated travellers) or a negative RT-PCR or professional rapid test result within 72 hours of travel (for non or partially vaccinated travellers). These can be in a print or digital format. Random checks will be made on arrivals at Thailand international airports or land border check points.
Unvaccinated or not fully vaccinated travellers who are random checked and who are unable to show proof of a pre-arrival negative test will be required to undergo a professional rapid test at point of entry. Further info can be found here.
We’re also very excited with the resumption of Thai Airways’ Perth-Bangkok direct flight route. TG482 will operate non-stop from Perth to Bangkok every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday starting 5 July 2022 departing at 16:20.
Guest blogger John Borthwick visited the Tham Luang cave in northern Thailand, scene of a spectacular rescue in 2018. Here’s what he found.
There have been major documentaries and endless interviews. And Hollywood is turning it into a dramatic feature film. “It” is the extraordinary story that played out in June-July 2018 when 12 young Thai soccer players and their coach were entombed deep within a flooded cave system outside Chiang Rai in northern Thailand.
Image: John Borthwick
Today, sunlight streams into the cathedral-sized first chamber of Thailand’s Tham Luang Nang Non, the ”Great Cave of the Sleeping Lady”. Visitors amble down a well-made pathway to explore the floor of the cavern and take selfies. It’s hard to imagine that this was a scene of frantic activity that gripped the world’s attention for a fortnight.
Marooned by rising waters on a ledge over three kilometres deep within a claustrophobic labyrinth, the Wild Boars football team, the youngest of whom was only 11, was almost given up for dead. Ten days passed before two freelance British cave divers, called in by the Thai government to assist, managed to battle upstream through murky waters and find the boys alive.
Images: John Borthwick and Deborah Dickson-Smith
The dangerous rescue that followed took another week. Twenty-three countries contributed to the effort. Among the thousands of participants and dozens of heroes were two Australian medical specialists and cave divers, doctors Richard Harris and Craig Challen who oversaw the risky task of anaesthetising the boys before teams of divers then swam them, submerged and unconscious, out to safety. The grandfather of one boy said, “It’s like they have died. And now have been reborn.”
Dr Richard ‘Harry’ Harris is presented with an award for bravery by the Explorers Club
The cave in Tham Luang—Khun Nam Nang Non National Park, about 40 minutes drive from Chiang Rai, has been reopened to the public. “During the week we now get about 1000 visitors a day. On weekends, two thousand,” a National Parks ranger tells me. Entry is free and a shuttle bus runs constantly between the nearby parking lot and cave entrance.
Visitors can wander the giant entry chamber and climb the steps to its Spirit House altar. I explore further into the limestone cavern, which runs some ten kilometres toward the nearby Myanmar border. However, after only 300 metres the narrowing passageway is firmly blocked by a metal barricade. Thai National Parks aren’t taking any chances with thrill-seekers tempting fate in seeing how far they might make it towards the famous rescue point, even during this dry season.
Image: John Borthwick
The area around the cave entrance has now become a sort of “Rescue” theme park, with murals, maps, a recreated tunnel section and a large statue honouring former Thai Navy SEAL diver Saman Kunan, the only person to perish during the mission.
The British Cave Rescue Council divers received multiple bravery awards, as did many Thai SEALS, plus US, Chinese, Belgian and other participants. The two Australian specialists jointly won the “Australian of the Year” award. The young footballers — true heroes all — were feted internationally and several of them, who were stateless, including coach Ekkapol Chantawong, were granted Thai citizenship.
At least four versions of ‘the rescue’ will see the light of movie and television screens. First out was the 2019 doco, The Cave by Thai-Irish filmmaker Tom Waller. A Netflix mini-series that focuses on the young footballers is in the works. National Geographic’s 2021 documentary, The Rescue was stunning on the big screen and is now available on Disney.
Meanwhile, Hollywood director Ron Howard’s big-budget version, “Thirteen Lives” will star Viggo Mortensen and Colin Farrell as the British duo who first found the boys.
After the boys were all rescued and safe in their own Chiang Rai hospital ward, the Thai Navy SEALS posted: “We are not sure if this is a miracle, science, or what?” Probably all of the above.
Hope you have all been keeping well and staying dry. It has been quite a wet week in Sydney.
We are very pleased to announce another easing of restrictions for Thailand entry, effective 1 June 2022.
Foreign nationals are required to apply for Thailand Pass via https://tp.consular.go.th/, but will only need to provide passport details, vaccination, and an US$10,000 health insurance policy. The system will issue a Thailand Pass QR code for the applicants. Meanwhile, Thais will no longer be required to apply for Thailand Pass.
Upon arriving in Thailand, vaccinated travellers must undergo entry screening, and will then be allowed entry and are free to go anywhere in the Kingdom.
Unvaccinated/not fully vaccinated travellers who are able to upload proof of negative RT-PCR or professional ATK (rapid) test within 72 hours of travel via Thailand Pass system will also be allowed entry and are free to go anywhere in the kingdom.
After two years of no international travel, many people seeking a more mindful, sustainable travel experience. According to guest writer Michael Cullen, many are looking to travel with purpose – travel with the heart.
Image: supplied, Chivit Thammada
After more than two years of little to no travel, airlines, travel companies, and international travel organisations are seeing increases in global movement thanks to the easing of restrictions. And with borders finally opening, new travel trends are emerging.
People are not looking for more of the (pre-pandemic) same. Many are travelling more mindfully, seeking sustainable travel, boutique and authentic experiences. People want to experience nature and the outdoors, hands-on and immersive encounters, and activities impacting positively on the local community and environment.
People are looking to travel with purpose or, put another way – want to travel with the heart.
To assist your northern Thailand travel planning – Chiang Mai, the Golden Triangle and Chiang Rai – here is a range of activities, experiences, and opportunities that fit the travel with the heart concept.
Organic, Farm-to-Table and Slow Food
Food is an essential part of any travel, and Thai food is one of the world’s most popular cuisines. Within Thailand, regions have their own distinct style and dishes, which is undoubtedly true for the north. Elements of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Chinese cuisine have influenced northern food. The cooler climate brings many kinds of vegetables, including cultivated and from the wild, plus mushrooms and aromatic herbs used in cooking. Less coconut milk is used, and the curries are milder than those in the south.
And in the north, a growing trend is farmers adopting organic practices, which is seen in fruit, vegetables and herbs, and coffee and tea production. Farm to table is how local people have lived for centuries, though now restaurants bring that concept to Chiang Mai’s general dining public. Here are three local companies bringing these ideas together for your dining pleasure.
Image: supplied, Ori9in Gourmet Farm
Ginger Farm, originally a rice plantation on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, has adopted organics and free-range methods with the farm open for educational visits. Their conveniently located and busy Ginger Farm Kitchen at One Nimman features Thai dishes incorporating their farm-fresh produce. Another organic and farm-to-table adopter is Ohkajhu, started by three local university graduates in 2013. They have two restaurant outlets in Chiang Mai fed by their farms – the original in Sansai to the north of the city and one close to the airport. I love the generosity of their tasty Thai dishes.
Image: supplied, Ori9in Gourmet Farm
Ori9in Gourmet Farm is the brainchild of Michelin trained Chef James Noble and his wife, Khun May. They supply organic and sustainable produce to some of Chiang Mai and Bangkok’s best high-end restaurants and some of the region’s most notable hotel brands. During the non-rainy season (October to March), they operate the “Waiting for May” picnic restaurant on-site. Have a gourmet picnic in the gardens enjoying all farm-fresh ingredients and Chef James’ culinary flair. Farm tours are also available to picnickers.
Image: supplied, Chivit Thamma Da Cafe and Bistro
Travel with the heart dining in Chiang Rai must include Chivit Thamma Da Cafe and Bistro. Situated in two lovely colonial-style buildings on the banks of the Kok River, Chivit Thamma Da is a strong supporter of Slow Food. This means organic and sustainable, local (no imported food miles) and Fair Trade, thus ensuring their local producers and suppliers can share in their success. An absolute favourite in Chiang Rai, open from 9 am to 9 pm daily.
Cooking Schools – Hands-On Learning
Cooking schools are easy to find across northern Thailand. Here are two suggestions that resonate with our travel with the heart theme.
Image: supplied, Thai Akha Cooking School
Thai Akha Cooking School is just a kilometre south of the Old City, offering morning and evening classes. Members of the Akha Hill Tribe community operate this cooking school. As well as preparing and enjoying several Thai dishes, you will gain some insight into the Akha people and their stories. Cooking instructor Niti had our group captivated from start to finish.
Image: supplied, Thai Farm Cooking School
As the name suggests, Thai Farm Cooking School is based on their own organic farm just 17 km from central Chiang Mai. They have an office in the Old City and provide city pickup/return as part of their full or half-day course. As well as creating and eating several classic Thai dishes, you get to see where your organic produce comes from – literally just a couple of meters outside the cooking kitchen. Organic farmer and cooking instructor Khun Sawat’s genuine enthusiasm is infectious.
Massage
Holidays are not complete without pampering and relaxation, and Thai massage is a must when visiting the “Land of Smiles”. Said to have its roots in India and practised for 2,500 years, the healing benefits of Thai Massages are well documented. From simple to deluxe, Thai massage studios can be found wherever you travel in the Kingdom, and northern Thailand is no exception. Here are a couple of options that easily link with our theme.
Image: supplied, Lila Massage
Lila Thai Massage has two conveniently located studios in Chiang Mai’s Old City, offering an extensive treatment menu, and has a compelling back story. Former Director of Chiang Mai Women’s Prison, Naowarat Thanasrisutharat, during her tenure, instigated a massage therapist training program to equip selected soon-to-be-released inmates with skills to help support their lives. And then, in 2008, Khun Naowarat created Lila Thai Massage, becoming a direct employer and dedicated training ground for these women as they re-join society. Pre-pandemic, Lila Thai Massage had eight operating studios across Chiang Mai and hopefully will be reopening these as international visitors return. It is our first choice for Thai massage when in Chiang Mai.
Image: supplied, Supatra Blind Massage
Our other choice is blind massage, with many of the current masseuses getting their break thanks to Dr Aud Kaewthong. In the 1980s, he took a massage class in Bangkok and realised that, due to being born blind, his sense of touch was profoundly developed. Thanks to Dr Aud, more than 1,000 blind massage therapists now work in Thailand, and his training has spread into other Southeast Asian communities. Examples of this movement are Supatra Blind Massage in the northeast corner of the Old City, a simple and highly regarded studio. Perception Blind Massage has a slightly more polished feel and is just inside the Thapae Gate of the Old City. Both are excellent options to experience your blind massage.
Image: supplied, Lisu Eco Lodge
Community-based Tourism, Hilltribes, and Immersive Experiences
Lisu Eco Lodge is only a 50-minute drive north of Chiang Mai city and is a community-based tourism project operated by the local Lisu hill tribe people. The lodge has four spacious guest houses in a tranquil valley surrounded by organic rice fields, vegetable gardens, and orchards. Two day-one-night stays on a half-board basis will have you experiencing community life first-hand, including a guided village tour. Add-on activities like guided nature walks, bamboo river rafting, or other hill tribe experiences can be arranged. Be sure to do the tour of their award-winning Araksa Tea Gardens less than 6 km from Lisu Lodge.
Image: supplied, Araksa Tea Gardens
Journey to Freedom is a week-long full-immersion project that embeds (paying) volunteers into a Karen hill tribe community while gaining a fascinating insight into rehabilitated elephants’ lives. Witness the daily life of the Karen people, become involved in the community and experience intimate encounters with the world’s largest land mammal. You will learn about agriculture and community, develop learning experiences for local school children, assist in the daily care of elephants and live in a cultural exchange at a tribal village in the mountains of Chiang Mai.
Image: supplied. Journey to Freedom
Elephant Nature Park is an elephant rescue and rehabilitation centre just 60 km north of Chiang Mai. Founder ‘Lek’ Saengduean Chailert has championed ethical elephant conservation since 1996. Her “Saddle Off” care of rescued elephants is now being adopted by many camps and conservation parks across Thailand. The park currently offers sanctuary to elephants, buffalo, numerous dogs, cats, birds, and many other rescued animals. You can visit for a day, overnight, or stay on-site for the fully inclusive and highly regarded week-long volunteering programs. If caring for elephants seems daunting, their dog or cat shelters have many furry friends waiting for your attention.
Image: supplied, Elephant Nature Park
Chiang Rai – Immersive Farm Stays and Eco-Luxe Resorts
Just under 40 km northwest of Chiang Rai at the base of Mae Salong Mountain is Ahsa Farmstay. A working farm with four delightfully rustic-luxe guest rooms, perfect for couples, solo travellers and families. Stays are full-board, with much of the produce straight from the surrounding fields. As most meals are an opportunity for a cooking class, get ‘hands-on’ with your host family and learn the art of Lanna (Northern Thai) cuisine, or head to the fields for some farm experiences.
Image: supplied, Ahsa Farmstay
At 32 acres, there is lots to do on the farm, from collecting fresh eggs to feeding the ducks and geese, learning about rice cultivation, or tapping the estate’s rubber trees. Guided treks in the surrounding hills, including hill-tribe village visits, are available. Return to the farm for a traditional massage or relax in Ahsa’s take on a traditional herbal sauna. There is always plenty to see, learn and experience on this working farm.
Image: supplied, Ahsa Farmstay
Phu Chaisai, which translates as “Mountain of Clear Heart”, is just under an hour from Chiang Rai and is perhaps one of Thailand’s first boutique resorts. Perched atop a bamboo clad mountain with spectacular Mae Salong valley views, Phu Chaisai is a reminder that mindful living with nature is possible, even in this modern age. Created and operated by one of Thailand’s leading interior designers, M.L. Sudavdee Kriangkrai, or Mom Da as the locals call her, its design is harmonious with its surroundings while providing suitable comfort for guests.
Image: supplied, Phu Chaisai
The fresh mountain air is cleansing and reduces the need for air conditioning, while televisions and alarm clocks are absent. Hike the marked trails on this 800-acre organic estate, visit their oolong tea plantation or learn local dishes in the resort’s cooking school. Phu Chaisai’s overall “less is more” concept creates a genuine opportunity for you to immerse yourselves in the natural rhythm and environment of the glorious far north.
Image: supplied, Phu Chaisai
Travel with the Heart
Perhaps the most significant benefit of ‘travelling with the heart’ is a richer, more satisfying, and memorable experience for visitors. Seasoned travellers can tell you it is the genuine connection with people and communities that changes you, not the destination itself. This type of responsible travel puts real faces and names to the communities we are visiting. It is an opportunity to slow down, ground ourselves and find something we have lost.
Northern Thailand has an abundance of eco-friendly, sustainable, and community-based activities for travellers who want to dive deep into the region’s essence and travel mindfully. This article highlights a few we believe are worth particular mention. Happy travels.
Chiang Rai, the lesser-known sister to cosmopolitan Chiang Mai, is well worth exploring, writes guest writer Michael Cullen in this detailed guide to road-tripping this northern Thailand region.
With its more laid-back style, visitors experience eye-popping temples, abundant nature, organic foodie trails, cultural insights into the Hill Tribe communities, and easy access to the Golden Triangle region, to name just a few offerings.
A self-guided road trip is a great way to delve into lesser-explored northern Thailand and, for couples, create cherished memories from shared holiday experiences.
Given the breadth of opportunities on offer, spending seven days (or more) exploring greater Chiang Rai would be easy. As a great starting point, spend a few days enjoying this small, amiable city, before heading further afield.
Ancient Lanna Capital & Gateway to The Golden Triangle
Thailand’s northern-most province borders Myanmar and Laos, with the border tripoint just under 70 kilometres northeast of the Chiang Rai city. The provincial capital, Chiang Rai, is serviced by direct flights from Bangkok, making the city and region easy to access. Chiang Mai, around 200 km southwest, is an alternate access point.
The region boasts a long history of smaller kingdoms, while the city of Chiang Rai was founded in 1262 by King Mengrai. It was temporarily the capital of Mengrai’s Lanna Kingdom until being superseded by Chiang Mai.
Covering approximately 11,700 square kilometres, the mainly mountainous region has peaks rising to 1,500 metres above sea level. Inhabiting the highlands are ethnic hill tribes like the Akha, Lahu, Karen, Hmong, and ethnic Chinese settlers. Apparently, the CIA coined the name Golden Triangle for the overlapping mountains of the three adjacent countries. It was one of the world’s largest opium-producing areas from the 1950s to the early 21st century.
Chiang Rai city lies on alluvial plains on the banks of the Kok River. The ‘plains’ rich soils produce a vast range of vegetables and fruits, while coffee, tea, nuts and fruit plantations hug the mountains. Over recent years, the adoption of organic production has seen the region’s agricultural reputation grow significantly.
Chiang Rai City Highlights
City Centre Temples
Within about two square km of the city centre, you can find seven Buddhist temples and numerous markets. Here are our top picks.
Near the Clock Tower is one of the most interesting temples, Wat Ming Muang, because it is so different from any other in town. Additionally, Queen Ta La Mae Sri, and not her husband King Mengrai, is said to have founded this temple. According to the legend, 14th century Wat Phra Kaew’s stupa was struck by lightning, revealing the highly revered Emerald Buddha, now enshrined at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. Within the temple grounds is a compact museum housing a replica. From the same era, Wat Phra Singh, adjacent to the Post Office, houses a replica of the holy statue Phra Buddha Sihing, the original now enshrined in Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh.
Markets
Markets provide tremendous insight into the region’s produce, people, local food styles and daily life. They are a buzz of activity, a riot of colour, a cacophony of noise, and stimulate a sense of intrigue and sometimes bewilderment.
Ngam Mueang Market (5 am to 6 pm) off Ruangnakron Rd is indoors with everything from fresh seafood, meats, fruit and vegetables to clothing and haberdashery. Also undercover is Municipal Fresh Market 1 open (6 am to 9 pm). About 600 meters from the gleaming gold Clocktower is the busy Sirikorn Fruit and Vegetable Market, with photogenic fresh flower stalls nearby.
Chiang Rai boasts two walking street Night Markets. Thanalai Road transforms into the Saturday Night Market from 4 pm till late, offering everything from tasty Thai street food, local artisans’ artefacts, dance, and an open area to sit back and enjoy the festivities. The Sunday Night Market on Sankhongnoi Rd (or Happy Street) had a strong reputation for offering excellent local crafts and delectable street food and is expected to reopen as visitor numbers increase. The Night Bazaar behind the central Bus Station runs every evening and is the most touristy and, therefore, less authentic market in Chiang Rai.
Local Dining & Cafés
Chiang Rai has an abundance of eating outlets, from street stalls and casual family-run noodle shops to restaurants offering local and international cuisine.
Popular northern Thai dishes include Gaeng Hung Lay curry, Sai Oua sausage, Nam Prik Noom Kab Moo, the noodle and pork dish Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew, and most famous – Khao Soi.
Khantoke, a wood pedestal tray, is another northern Thai tradition where people are seated on the floor with the tray in the centre acting as a table. Toke-Tong Restaurant offers this unique experience in a delightful welcoming garden. Tantalise the tastebuds and enjoy fun eventing while sharing and devouring a range of northern Thai dishes, including the specialities mentioned above.
For sky-high sundowners and a stunning sunset, The Peak atop the upmarket Riverie Hotel is a must-visit spot for cocktails or a romantic dinner and some dazzling photos.
Coffee loving couples rejoice, Chiang Rai grown and roasted beans, at the hands of skilled baristas, deliver some knock-out coffee. In the city centre, try Arabitia Cafe, Akha Hill Coffee and Doi Chaang Coffee, and just south, The Roast Coffee, a personal favourite.
Museums
Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park, under Royal Patronage, houses the region’s most extensive collection of Lanna artefacts in two stunning traditional teak timber halls. Complementing this well maintained and fascinating museum is gloriously maintained gardens, ponds and a quality gift shop.
Oub Kham Museum features the extensive and remarkable collection of museum curator Julasak Suriyachai whose lineage is traced back to a Shan royal family of Kengtung in Burma (Myanmar). Exhibits include royal regalia, handicrafts, and artefacts, displayed in buildings amongst beautiful gardens and courtyards.
Insider tip: close by on Ratyotha Rd is ‘Khaosoi 100 Year Café’ with excellent Khao Soi.
‘Road Trip’ North of the River
Across the Kok River, this short road trip is around 30 km and includes a must-visit café beside the Kok River, unique temples, a museum visit, and a look around the countryside.
Wat Huay Pla Kang, with the immense gleaming white statue, dominates the landscape and features three impressive structures, including the Phop Chok Dhamma pagoda displaying Thai, Chinese, and European design influences and an all-white (inside and out) Thai style sermon hall. The dominant and imposing white statue of Kuan Im, the Goddess of Mercy, has an elevator to the 25th floor where you take in beautiful district views looking through the eyes of the Goddess. This complex cares for 500+ orphans, and you can help by buying items for donation.
Baan Dam (or Black House) is a museum created by Chiang Rai-born artist Thawan Duchanee, who resided on the complex until he died in 2014. In various classic teak and more unusual igloo-style buildings are many of Duchanee’s artworks and objects, including animal bones, skins, and skulls. It sits within peaceful, well-cared-for grounds.
Insider Tip: Stop at Ruk Raek Coffee immediately adjacent to the museum entrance and carpark for a great organic coffee or tea and a quick snack.
Wat Rong Sear Tean (Blue Temple) is mesmerising with vivid blues and bright golden touches on the roof and eaves. The temple is exquisitely designed and full of Buddhist imagery, including a gigantic, magnificent white porcelain Buddha. Murals adorn the walls inside, while motifs delightfully wind their way around blue pillars. The ceiling is a work of art in itself.
Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House & Bistro is just 300 meters from the Blue Temple and sits on the banks of the Kok River. This coffee house and bistro is a Chiang Rai must-visit.
‘Road Trip’ South – White Temple, Waterfall & Singha Park
Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) is around 13 km south of Chiang Rai. In the style of a Buddhist temple complex, this privately-owned art exhibit was designed and constructed by Thai visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. It is a stunning example of contemporary and traditional Thai architecture creating a temple structure unlike any other. The onsite gallery sells artwork by Kositpipat.
About 15 km southwest is Nam Tok Khun Kon National Forest Park. Take this beautiful 30-minute walk along meandering paths to the Khun Kon waterfall, surrounded by rainforest and towering bamboo. With a 70-meter drop, it is the highest waterfall in Chiang Rai. Outside of the wet season, swimming at the base of the falls may be feasible but consult with Park officials first.
Rounding out this 60 km road trip is a visit to Singha Park, a 14 square kilometre recreational wonderland. Visitors have abundant choices with extensive walking and cycling tracks, plus family water activities, rock climbing, and ziplining.
For Instagram fans, the vast fields of pastel-coloured flowers and the rolling tea plantation are a must. Cafes and restaurants are spread throughout this popular park. For something extra romantic and memorable, enjoy a Hot Air Balloon experience or visit during their annual ballooning festival.
‘Road Trip’ East for Cloud Seas
Around 90 km east of Chiang Rai city are the mountains bordering Laos, with Mount Phu Chi Fah the most famous. Most visitors stay overnight, taking the 760-meter hike up an unpaved track to the summit to experience sunrise from the peak’s viewpoint. In Winter, a sea of clouds rolls through the valleys below, providing an eery though evocative scene. And it can be pretty cold in those hours around dawn. A further 12 km from Phu Chi Fah is the less-visited viewpoint, Phu Chi Dao, with magnificent views of the Mekong River in the Laos lowlands below.
Insider Tip: Detour to the impressive organic farm, restaurant, and glamping site, Rai Ruen Rom, on your journey out or back. Enjoy a healthy meal in the café, browse their shop with unique gifts and souvenirs and wander the gardens and farm.
Golden Triangle Loop (3-5 days)
This extended loop takes you through many of the highlights of the Golden Triangle region, including Chiang Saen, 60 km northeast of Chiang Rai, the Golden Triangle Viewpoint, Doi Tung, Mae Salong and more.
One of the oldest cities in Thailand, Chiang Saen, was established early in the 14th century. It was a strategic border post of the Lanna Kingdom, an important centre of Buddhism, and a vital stop-off point along the old Chinese-Siam river trade routes. After a turbulent history, including being captured by the Burmese and then destroyed by King Rama I, Chiang Saen became a ghost town for several hundred years.
Present-day Chiang Saen is low key with its historical past and old city ruins as part of its attraction. While you’re in town, visit the Chiang Saen National Museum and some impressive temples, such as Wat Pa Sak, Wat Phra Chao Lan Thong, and Wat Phra That Pha Ngao. Stroll along the banks of the Mekong River, bicycle around the monuments, and enjoy inexpensive, delicious local food at street-side vendors. Bird enthusiasts will enjoy Chiang Saen Lake, especially during the migratory season. Sunsets over the lake can also be spectacular.
To further tap into the local history, stay at the family-owned and run Athita The Hidden Court boutique hotel, situated just 70 meters from the Mekong and next to the 700-year-old Wat Athi Ton Kaew. The family are keen to share their heritage and culture with guests, making this an ideal base.
Golden Triangle Viewpoint About 11km north of Chiang Saen is the village of Ban Sop Ruak, the tripoint of Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand. The Ruak River forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar and joins the Mekong at this point. Great photo opportunities abound, including a Golden Buddha (Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin) sitting atop a specially constructed metal and glass boat on the riverside. Longboat trips on the Mekong are also available.
A few kilometres from this point is the expansive Hall of Opium Museum and a highly recommended stop. The museum tells how Royal sponsored initiatives, including specific programs from Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother, turned the denuded mountains of the region from illegal poppy growing and opium drug production to more uplifting and inclusive community development outcomes. Such programs are still positively serving local communities many years on.
Golden Triangle Mountain Communities
Mae Sai
From the tri-border point, road trippers can head northwest around 50 km to the bustling border town of Mae Sai, Thailand’s northernmost point. At the border immigration point, there is the potential for a brief crossing into Myanmar for a photo opportunity. Approximately 12 km south of Mae Sai, though off the highway, is Tham Luang – Khun Nam Nang Non National Park, where the now-famous cave rescue played out over 18 days in mid-2018. National Parks have now created an information display showing how the rescue unfolded.
Doi Tung – Mae Fah Luang Region
If time is short, head straight from the Mekong (40-50 km trip) to the Doi Tung (Tung Mountain) region, the centrepiece of many of the change initiatives highlighted in the Hall of Opium Museum. For the last 30 years, the Doi Tung Development (Social Enterprise) Project has been the driver of change. Creating a region that now boasts sustainable communities focused on high-value crops like coffee and macadamia nut, plus thriving (and international award-winning) ceramics, textiles, and handicrafts.
Must-sees include the spectacular 10-acre temperate-climate Mae Fah Luang Garden. Tour the Royal Villa, a Swiss Style Chalet built for the late Princess Mother when she was in the region. Learn how the Royal Family positively impacted this region and its Hill Tribe communities at the Hall of Inspiration. If open, challenge yourself on the suspension bridges of the Doi Tung Tree Top Walk. Be tempted in the Doi Tung boutiques, enjoy Doi Tung coffee, and if staying overnight, the highly regarded romantic Doi Tung Lodge rounds out your mountain-top experience.
Mae Salong
From Doi Tung, you can drive across the mountain tops to the tea-growing region of Mae Salong (approximately 45 km) while being rewarded with sensational verdant outlooks as you traverse the winding roads.
Mae Salong (also called Santikhiri) has long been an Akha hill tribe community. Its population grew by a few thousand ethnic Chinese nationalists who fled their homeland in 1949, after the Communist Revolution. The Thai government gave them citizenship on the agreement they become trusted members of the community and established Oolong Tea, mushrooms, and such agricultural products. The town is built along a meandering narrow ridge, with lanes and streets running off the main (ridge) road.
Tea production is undoubtedly a big part of this region, as visits to Tea Plantation 101 or Wang Put Tan Tea Plantation demonstrate. Several Chinese tea houses in town provide samples and packaged tea to take home. Coffee is also grown in the region and is worth seeking out for coffee lovers.
Other attractions include the Chinese Martyrs’ Memorial Museum, which tells their story and how the Chinese immigrants helped the Thai Army root out communist insurgence in Thailand as part of their settlement deal. Hilltop Phra Boromathat Chedi (Thai-style stupa) overlooks Mae Salong village with rewarding views and is worth driving up. This glorious Wat was built in honour of the late Princess Mother and is very restful.
The early morning market is excellent for discovering the local produce and securing your Akha hill tribe handicraft. A selection of the local eateries offer tasty Dim Sum and Yunnan style noodle dishes and are worth seeking out. And while wandering the central (ridge) road, check out the street art murals telling humorous local stories. There is a broad selection of accommodation in Mae Salong, and we enjoyed this boutique family run Guest House that had outstanding town and district views.
Mae Salong to Chiang Rai
The return journey to Chiang Rai from Mae Salong is about 60 km, taking you back through regional communities and farmlands before joining Highway 1 back to the city and Chiang Rai airport.
Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle region have so much more to offer as you take the time to explore. We hope the details provided here inspire you to make the trip and sample the delights of Thailand’s far north for yourself.
Chiang Mai, the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom, yet modern and cosmopolitan, is one of the most romantic destinations in Thailand. Nicknamed the “Rose of the North”, she is the ideal destination for fun-filled, active, and opportunity-rich holidays, especially for couples.
Travel Writer Michael Cullen shares the best of Chiang Mai for couples.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Her lush green fields, towering mountains, languid waterfalls, ancient temples, great food, swanky bars, serene spas, bountiful boutiques, and inspiring galleries add to the romantic atmosphere. For couples, Chiang Mai offers an abundance of opportunities for ‘we time’ making memories as you discover new places, share new experiences, and learn new things – together!
Read on for inspiration and ideas to make for a most memorable visit.
The Lanna Backstory
Before delving into all things Chiang Mai, let’s put some context to its history. Situated in a vast valley alongside the Ping River at the foot of Doi Suthep (Suthep Mountain), the construction of Chiang Mai (literally meaning “New City”) began in 1296. All fortified with thick brick walls and a watery moat.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
King Mengrai, who held sway over the northern provinces from his previous capital of Chiang Rai, chose this new location for the capital of ‘Lan-Na’. It was not till the 1780s that the independent-minded north became part of Siam (now Thailand). Despite that assimilation, Lanna history, culture, arts, crafts, and cuisine remain ever-present. The interactive and informative Chiang Mai City Art & Cultural Center immediately behind the Three Kings Monument in the middle of the Old Town is an ideal place to dig further into the history and evolution of the Lanna kingdom.
Another aspect of northern Thailand’s backstory is its hill tribes. Descendants of nomadic wanderers from Tibet, China, and Laos – the Lisu, Lahu, Akha, Hmong, Karen, and Mien tribes have long called the tangled green mountains stretching along the north’s border with Myanmar (Burma) home.
Chiang Mai City Highlights
How do you prioritise the Chiang Mai City highlights to make your visit the most memorable with so much on offer? Here are some suggestions under broad headings to help develop your own couple’s plan.
Temples
Buddhism is an integral aspect of Thai people’s lives, so gaining some appreciation may also provide a deeper understanding of life in the “Land of Smiles”. Temples are an excellent place to start, and greater Chiang Mai has some 300 ‘wats’. Their distinct architectural styles are richly decorated and often have beautiful mural paintings depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
In the heart of the Old City, Wat Chedi Luang is an excellent example of this. Its massive brick stupa is 80 meters high and was once the tallest building in the Lanna Kingdom when built in the 1400s. This temple once housed one of Thailand’s holiest Buddhist statues, the Emerald Buddha, which now resides in Bangkok’s Grand Palace.
Ten other historical temples are within a square kilometre of Wat Chedi Luang, including the visually impressive Wat Phra Singh, dating from 1345. Home to Phra Phutthasihing, Chiang Mai’s most sacred Buddha image, which is paraded in a procession around town during the Songkran festival (Thai New Year). According to traditional belief, locals bathe the image with scented water, bringing good luck.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
A few hours of meandering these central Chiang Mai temples will give some insights into the city’s history (and modern-day life). One aspect we love about Wat Chedi Luang is their “monk chats”, where people have the opportunity to sit and chat with monks about life – theirs and yours. It could be easy to get ‘templed out’, so select a few, take the time to absorb the details and observe the rituals of people who come to make offerings. And do show respect by following the modest dress requirements. After all, that’s part of the whole experience.
Markets
In many cultures worldwide, markets have long been essential aspects of daily life and remain true in modern-day Thailand. Here are a few worth your time.
Warorot Market is the largest market in the north featuring fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, preserved foods, ready-to-eat and more. Located just outside the Old City adjacent to the Ping River, this is the ideal place to see where the locals shop, work and eat. On the riverside of the building is the flower market with bursts of colour and heady scent. On the other side of the main market buildings, you will find local products and handicrafts of the Hmong (hill tribe) people in the alleys and laneways. Away from the river, the streets abutting Warorot blend into Chiang Mai’s Chinatown, adding another reason to explore this area.
Photo credit: Michael CullenPhoto credit: Michael Cullen
The Wua Lai (Saturday) Market is opposite the Chiang Mai Gate and extends along Wua Lai Road. Opening every Saturday from 4 pm, you can browse the goods on display, bargain with vendors and wander freely without traffic worries. Before sundown, visit Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple) to admire its intricate decorative elements and capture the late afternoon light reflecting off its shimmering structure. Wua Lai Road is also known as ‘silver street’ due to its Silversmith shops, with plenty of original designs of silver, copper and other jewellery creations. Great gift inspiration for you or your loved ones.
Stretching from Tha Phae Gate, the Sunday Market (or Walking Street) in the centre of the Old City extends for roughly 1 km down Ratchadamnoen Road. This highly popular market showcases Northern Thai art and craft, tasty Thai treats, with many vendors making and selling their products. Open every Sunday from 4 pm.
Foodie Delights
Some of the most popular northern Thai dishes worth seeking out include Gaeng Hung Lay curry, Sai Oua sausage, Nam Prik Noom Kab Moo (green chilli dip and Pork Cracklings), the noodle and pork dish Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew, and perhaps the poster child of northern Thai cuisine, Khao Soi. This coconut-based curry broth, egg noodles, and chicken thighs (or beef) are topped with a tangle of nest-like crunchy fried noodles. Many eateries, from simple to up-market, will have variations of these and other northern Thai favourites for you to sample.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
With such a choice of eateries, it’s a challenge to make Chiang Mai dining recommendations, and it will depend on your location, specific dietary considerations and budget. That said, three that regularly impress – The House by Ginger for rustic Thai in a lovely setting in the Old Town, RedBox for that special lunch or dinner near Nimman, and innovative Blackitch for contemporary Asian in Nimman’s Lane 7.
Thailand’s Michelin Guide is always a reliable resource on where to eat. And no, Michelin Guides are not just about expensive fine dining affairs. In fact, twenty of the sixty eateries listed in Michelin’s Chiang Mai guide specialise in street food and Northern Thai cuisine. Many with main dishes for less than 100 THB (around 4 AUD). An essential reference!
Coffee – Thailand is in the top 20 coffee-producing nations, though it only started growing the highly prized Arabica beans commercially in the 1970s and became an exporter in 1976. The excellent news for coffee-loving visitors is Chiang Mai’s coffee culture is strong and easily accessed. Beans from the neighbouring high mountains straight to the city’s trendy cafes.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Coffee lovers visiting the always popular Nimman region, in particular, will find they are spoilt for choices. Standout venues include Nine One Coffee, Ristr8to, and Roast8ry, with their busy cafés and separate dedicated roasting facility. Akha Ama is a socially responsible co-operative helping the Akha hill tribe communities across the north grow and distribute their coffee direct to market, meaning the full benefits of their farming effort return to them. Of their three café outlets in Chiang Mai, Akha Ama La Fattoria in the middle of the Old Town, is the easiest to find.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Bars – if skilled mixologists, craft cocktails, and cool beats in the right atmosphere are your style, check out these three gems. Caravan Bar in trendy Nimman’s Lane 9, The White Rabbit, a speakeasy hidden away in the Old Town not too far from Chang Phuak Gate, and in an industrial grunge style laneway off Ratchawong Rd on the Ping River side is Looper &Co., an espresso bar by day and cocktail bar by night.
Shopping Precincts
Silverware, textiles including silk, ceramics, lacquer, and woodwork from the intricate to enormous and ancient are all products synonymous with the north. Whether visitors are looking for memorable souvenirs, amazing homewares, distinct fabrics for that something (or someone) special, or even unique Asian antiques, the Chiang Mai region has something for you.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Located in Chiang Mai’s Old Town, Kalm Village opened in May 2021 and is four connecting buildings, each with a distinct architectural story, enclosing a large central courtyard. It tells fascinating stories of artisanship through a permanent collection of wickerwork, ceramics, textiles and jewellery and a roster of art and crafts workshops and exhibitions. But it doesn’t stop there. Their enticing café, library, home-style restaurant offering amazing lunch sets, and concept stores incorporate glorious textiles into clothing and homewares. This hub of Thai creativity is worth your time.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Charoenrat Road, with its boutique hotels, and riverside restaurants in the Wat Ket Karam area, is another must. Expect designer handicrafts, textiles, clothes, antiques, homewares, ornaments, arts, and souvenirs, many incorporating hill tribe designs. Check out Oriental Textiles, Vila Cini, The Healing Family Foundation, and Elephant Parade House, with Woo Cafe & Gallery, an excellent option for lunch or refreshments. Located directly across the river from Warorot Market with a pedestrian bridge, Charoenrat Road is easy to access.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
One Nimman is located at the beginning of Nimmanhaeminda Road and is an impressive architectural statement as you enter the hip Nimman region of Chiang Mai city. The distinctive clocktower at the front and central open-air piazza where live performances and boutique markets are regularly staged are great first impressions. The grand Galleria with vaulted domed glass ceiling, shops, cafes and restaurants feels like you are transported to Florence or similar.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
San Kampang region is around 15 km east of central Chiang Mai. It is where you will see traditional bamboo and paper umbrellas made from scratch at Bo Sang Umbrella Village. Their two-day Umbrella Festival in January each year is a riot of colour and fun. Home Decor and plate-like-a-MasterChef enthusiasts need to visit the impressive Prempracha Collection showrooms neighbouring the umbrella village. This near warehouse-sized outlet is the home to locally crafted exquisite fine stoneware ceramics and is a favourite.
Hang Dong region is just 15 km southwest of central Chiang Mai and is the best place for excellent Thai furniture. The village of Baan Tawai produces all kinds of wood furniture, including the famous rattan. Or seek out the sprawling two-hectare Golden Triangle Hang Dong, a cluster of buildings arranged around courtyards and tree-shaded pathways. This is perhaps, Chiang Mai’s largest single source for fine antique furniture from Thailand, Myanmar, China, India and Pakistan.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Spa & Wellness
For some romantic pampering, destressing and relaxation, Chiang Mai has some of the best spas in Thailand, many with a Lanna slant. Your hotel may have on-site facilities, and here are some external options worth considering. Lila Thai Massage has two conveniently located studios in the Old City offering an extensive treatment menu and is our first choice whenever we need a massage. Oasis Spas have Day Spas in the Old Town and Nimman, both in striking buildings and recommended if you feel the need for even more luxurious, refined treatments and pampering.
Chiang Mai Day Trips and Excursions
Get away from Chiang Mai city. You have nature parks, waterfalls, botanical gardens, glorious temples like Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Royal Palaces, hill tribe communities, tea plantations, and much more to see and experience, including Thailand’s tallest mountain at 2565 metres, Doi Inthanon. You can do multi-day trekking, zipline through a Gibbon Forest, or welcome the dawn Hot Air Ballooning. You are spoilt for choices!
Here are some recommendations we find compelling. Although not necessarily the norm, they allow you to create special memories together.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
You will find many elephant camps offering a variety of experiences across northern Thailand. However, Elephant Nature Parkleads the way thanks to its ethical approach to handling, caring for and interacting with these rescued giants. Day visits and overnight stays, including return transport, are available. Or you can volunteer for a week, staying on-site for a fully immersive experience.
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Just a few kilometres from the elephant park is Araksa, an organic tea plantation growing Assam tea and producing award-winning teas in several varieties. Go for the hands-on and interactive tour and tasting; stay for a bite in this very tranquil location.
Imagine piloting a Tuk Tuk while discovering one of the north’s lesser-visited regions, Mae Hong Son. Yes, you drive your own custom-built Tuk Tuk (or be driven) on 1, 3, 5, 7 or 11-day inclusive guided tours. This beautiful province has much to offer, including huge mountains, deep forests, rivers, mountain communities, fascinating temples, fabulous food and loads to do for the active traveller. Tuk Tuk Club tours help you discover this part of northern Thailand in a totally memorable and quintessentially Thai way – on a Tuk Tuk!
Photo credit: Michael Cullen
Where to Stay
Once again, choices abound, from family-run Guest House in the backstreets of the Old Town to an abundance of hostels and hotels from simple to luxe, historic to ultra-modern.
Here are a few suggestions starting with Away Chiang Mai Resort – a boutique vegan resort built around a central pool and just a few hundred meters outside the Old Town’s Tha Phae Gate. In the middle of the Old Town is Tamarind Village with its ancient trees and exquisite Lanna design – a quiet oasis in the centre of everything. Or for a distinct 5-star stay overlooking the Ping River –Anantara Chiang Mai Resort.
And for a romantic break, in the hills behind Chiang Mai, Onsen @ Moncham. A stylised yet authentic version of a Japanese mountain ryokan and onsen hot baths. Situated in the Mae Rim district, visit neighbouring Mae Sa waterfalls or explore Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden and Canopy Skywalk while in the area.
Chiang Mai, the city, and the region have so much for all types of visitors. We’ve highlighted activities and experiences we feel will make for memorable couple-focused holidays in the “Rose of the North”. We hope you enjoy!
Guest blogger John Borthwick takes a look at developments in sustainable and regenerative tourism in Thailand.
“I’m a coral gardener,” says Thai marine ecologist Khun Aorn as she surfaces, grinning, from the Gulf of Thailand waters. We’re at Koh Talu island in Prachuap Khiri Khan province where she and dive-master Khun Oh have been leading local school kids in a coral regeneration project. We head out to a pontoon where the students learn how to tie fingers of staghorn coral to a tubular frame that is then lowered to the seabed. Over the next few months these will bloom to form a new coral garden.
Copyright John Borthwick
Aorn, 28, is one of a generation of educated, engaged young Thais making both an impact and a career in conservation. For travellers interested in similar marine activities several commercial operators organise ‘voluntourism’ programs at islands like Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. Fee-paying volunteers, who are interested in coral or sea turtle projects, typically work a five-day week as part of a supervised team and should be certified divers.
Copyright John Borthwick
Thai beach resorts often support local sea turtle sanctuaries and involve guests who might be cash-rich but time-poor. At Khao Lumpee-Haad Thaymuang National Park in Phang Nga province guests from the nearby Aleenta Phuket Resort can sponsor and release turtle hatchlings. Further south on that same Andaman coast, guests and visitors at Phuket’s JW Marriott resort can observe the Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation at work. And of course volunteer a donation.
Thai National Parks
An overlooked but major contributor to low-impact tourism is Thailand’s extensive network of national parks. Many offer ranger–led excursions as well as budget cabins and camping sites. Koh Tarutao Island in Satun province on the southern Andaman coast is a good example. The park headquarters rents basic bungalows and tent sites, from where you can range out by foot or bicycle to encounter truly untrammelled beaches, jungle birdlife and giant monitor lizards.
Tip: book well ahead for National Park accommodation and try to avoid Thai national holidays.
Khao Sok National Park, one of Thailand’s unsung wonders, is a 740 sq km domain of rainforest, lakes and limestone peaks. Located inland north of Phuket it is part of Thailand’s largest wilderness area. Visitors can stay in low-impact pontoon cabins that become their base for jungle excursions to spot macaques and gibbons. A few hours spent kayaking on the park’s magical Cheow Lan Lake may be among your most personally regenerative ones ever.
Copyright John Borthwick
Meanwhile, the waterways of Phuket Marine National Park in the north of the island shelter a series of species-rich mangrove trails. Exploring them in a rental kayak is the probably the holiday island’s best, least-known thrill.
Elephants Matter
Recent years have seen a radical reappraisal in Thailand of elephant rides and other exploitative practices. ‘Due to attitudes among inbound tourists, many of the activities we once offered have changed,’ says John Roberts who oversaw the Anantara Golden Triangle resort’s elephant camp for two decades. Elephant polo and rides are gone, replaced by activities like a morning ‘Walk With Giants’, as offered by the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation.
The GTAE foundation which cares for 20 rescue elephants runs a ‘no fee’ program for volunteers who make a minimum two-week work commitment. Other ethical operators include Phuket’s Elephant Sanctuary where half- and full-day programmes for visitors start from around $125 a head, as well as shorter tours of its excellent 12ha home for a dozen rescue elephants.
Copyright John Borthwick
At around $400 a week, feeding and maintaining a rescue elephant is not cheap. To be frank, with elephants (and many other sustainability programs) your most effective form of voluntourisn is to volunteer a direct donation to an efficient, dedicated foundation.
More Samlors
Samlor drivers Khun Phrayad, 52 and Khun Sa-At, 64 are among the last of their tribe. Piloting their three-wheeled pedicabs around the streets of Chiang Mai they still feel like spring chickens, especially when compared to their oldest colleague who retired at age 98. Samlors have been dying out across the country for decades, replaced by tuk-tuks and taxis. Next time you see one, hail the driver and go for a relaxing ride around town. Yes, he’s working hard (but efficiently) and you’re not exploiting him. In fact, you’re sustaining a piece of Thai communal history and, more directly, also a family’s livelihood. Tip generously, of course.
Copyright: John Borthwick
The First Resort
When checking out where to stay, first consider if your potential hotel or resort performs more than just ‘greenwashing’ eco-gestures. Have they ditched single-use plastics (especially water bottles)? Do they separate and recycle cardboard, glass and aluminium? They’ve replaced plastic straws with paper straws? And so on, from composting organic waste to the use of LED lights throughout the property. Some do, many don’t.
Aleenta Resort in Phuket rewards locals with a free coffee for picking up litter on the beach.
A tip that keeps on giving
Thailand is a tipping culture. Well-intentioned travellers engage there each day with a large, unacknowledged ‘community’ — the waiters, drivers, guides, hawkers and dozens of others who enable our journeys and entertainment. They are often members of Thailand’s large informal economy, and many have suffered greatly during Covid-19’s decimation of their livelihoods. The most effective, direct-action way that a traveller can sustain this most real community is to engage their services — and to tip appreciatively.
Random Acts of Sensible Stuff
When shopping for souvenirs, always check if they are made locally, and not in a far-off foreign factory. Be sure to turn off the air-conditioning when exiting your hotel room. Don’t buy flowers, etc from child hawkers — it’s not supporting community but child exploitation.
When tourism rebooted, guest blogger John Borthwick jumped aboard Thai Airways’ new direct flight from Sydney to Phuket. Here’s a little of what he found.
Phuket is back. That is, Phuket visitors are back. The Old Town is humming and Patong is rocking. The kayaking’s excellent and Phang Nga Bay is still as close as we get to a glimpse of heaven on earth. Sample a few of these Phuket moments.
Copyright Aleney De Winter
Copyright John Borthwick
Copyright John Borthwick
Copyright John Borthwick
Copyright John Borthwick
Mangrove Kayaking
Phuket Marine National Park in the far north is home to the island’s best, cheapest and probably least-known thrill. Kayaking along the water trails of Thachatchai mangrove forest is one of the best few hours you’ll spend anywhere. Buttressed mangrove roots line the channels you paddle through while water crows watch your progress. Hire a guide and kayak at the park headquarters.
Elephant Sanctuary
Tourist stunts like riding elephants, trunk ‘paintings’ and other mistreatments are out. ‘Look, don’t touch’ is the deal today at ethical Thai reserves such as Phuket Elephant Sanctuary Park. There’s an elevated 500 metre walkway from which you can observe the sanctuary’s dozen rescue elephants as they amble about, forage and bathe. There are scheduled tours of this excellent 12 ha domain, plus extended educational experiences.
Temples
The big one is Wat Chalong, Phuket’s largest and most visited shrine, which houses a bone fragment said to be from the historic Buddha. A 60-metre sacred ‘chedi’towers rises over the complex.The island wouldn’t be Thailand without at least a dozen temples, so look around: there’s probably a wat, and certainly a shrine, not far from where you’re staying.
Beaches
With 50 km of Andaman Sea beaches that loop from headland to headland, if you can’t find a Phuket shoreline that love, you’re probably allergic to sand. Patong Beach was one of the original visitor magnets, and still is, but the farther north you travel up the west coast, the sands become ever emptier and lovelier. Northern Phuket is a world apart from the traffic and mall sprawl found elsewhere and up here you’ll find Mai Khao Beach. Stretching to infinity, if not 11 km, this is island’s longest and finest beach.
Copyright John Borthwick
Copyright John Borthwick
Copyright John Borthwick
Phang Nga Bay
Phuket’s east coast faces this sublime bay, one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world. Much of it is national park where karst limestone islands float like snoozing sea monsters. The Phi Phi islands are always busy but their stunning Maya Bay is now from protected from over-tourism. The bay’s twin Koh Yao islands are low-key and languid, have quality resorts and will tempt you to escape for another week longer.
Phuket Old Town
History happened here long before beachcombers and tourism talent scouts ‘discovered’ the island 50 years ago. As befits what was an important hub for trading boats from the East and Europe, Phuket Old Town still retains that past. Among its 19th century Sino-Portuguese shop-houses is the elegant Tu Kab Khao restaurant on Phang Nga Road where family recipes like spiced crab feature among the traditional Peranakan and Thai dishes.
Copyright John Borthwick
Walking Street
Phuket Walking Street is a Sunday night market that takes over historic Thalang Road in the Old Town. Sample the southern Thai culinary specialties on offer and pick up a few local handicraft gifts. It’s all family-oriented with toy stalls and buskers but if you have the chance, also duck into one of the new, upmarket bars and try a local Chalong Bay Rum-based cocktail.
Copyright John Borthwick
Museums
As the ‘Pearl of the Andaman’, Phuket evolved last century from an overlooked tin mining province to a wealthy tourist mecca. Encapsulating that change, in the north of the island you can find the three-storey Art Deco home known as Baan Ah-Jor (Great-Grandparents Home).Built in 1936 by a tin-mining entrepreneur, the mansion has been carefully restored as a private museum that showcases the daily life of a wealthy 1930’s Thai-Chinese family. And then have a meal at the museum’s excellent Red Table restaurant.
UPDATED 1 MARCH 2022. Here’s everything you need to know about Thailand’s revised Test & Go entry process for international travellers.
With the Test and Go program, you need to pre-book an approved hotel or resort for at least one day, be tested upon arrival and once you receive a negative result, you can go wherever you like. You’ll also need to self-administer a RAT test on Day 5 and upload the result to the MorChana App. You are also still required to show required documents to Thai authorities to be granted entry. Here are the requirements:
A medical certificate indicating a negative PCR test
Travel insurance with health coverage no less than US$20,000.
Proof of prepayment for one night’s accommodation at a Safety and Health Administration Extra Plus (SHA++) hotel, which includes the expenses for a PCR test to be taken on Day 1, and a self-administered RAT test on Day 5.
Certificate of vaccination or recovery.
Download and install the MorChana application to record the Day 5 RAT test result.
Thailand Pass QR Code
You will need to obtain a QR Code that will can be downloaded after successful application for a Thailand Pass. Provide all the necessary details and upload documents that are asked and wait for confirmation or approval for you to receive a QR Code which will be scanned upon arrival in Thailand. Apply HERE.
Certificate of Vaccination
You will need to obtain an internationally recognised Certificate of Vaccination.
Know that the certificate of vaccination will only be accepted if the vaccines you have received are approved by the Ministry of Public Health (MoPH) or by the World Health Organization (WHO). And it must be dated at least 14 days before your scheduled travel date.
Children that are under the age of 18, are not required to be vaccinated as long as their parent or guardian is vaccinated and has a certificate of vaccination.
Medical Certificate for COVID-19 Test Result
To enter Thailand, you are required to have a negative RT-PCR test result. The result must be issued within 72 hours of the travel date.
If you have recovered from COVID-19, you will need a Certificate of Recovery. It will serve as proof that you have recovered from COVID-19 for at least 3 months.
Travel Insurance
You will have to purchase travel insurance that covers the costs of COVID-19 related incidents in case one gets infected during the stay in Thailand. The COVID-19 insurance must have a minimum coverage of $20,000.
Confirmation of Pre-paid Accommodation
You are required to book a hotel for at least 1 night for Day 1 and provide proof of your booking at Check-in on your departure, and at Immigration on arrival to Thailand.
MorChana App
You must download and install the MorChana application and always keep it on for updates on any required COVID-19 precautionary measures and to record your Day 5 result.
D M H T T A Precautions
D – Distancing
M – Mask wearing (in public spaces)
H – Handwashing
T – Temperature check
T – Testing for Covid 19
A – Alert Application
Packages for Test and Go Travellers
Since the introduction of the Test and Go program, approved Alternative Quarantine (AQ) and SHA+ Hotels have added Test and Go Packages to cater for guests. The Test and Go Package covers:
RT-PCR COVID-19 Test
Accommodation for at least 1 night for Day 1 and Day 5.
Transport to transfer from the airport to your designated hotel.
