Amanda Kendle, the producer responsible for the popular Thoughtful Travel podcast share her favourite three experiences in Chiang Rai in her latest episode – somewhere she’s wanted to visit her whole life.
1. The White Temple.
More art and architecture than temple, designed and funded by well-known Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. I try my best to describe it and there are some photos here – but you really do have to see it to believe it.
2. A day at Ahsa Farmstay, north of Chiang Rai city.
In this episode I explain what I loved about it and share an interview with one of the women who run it, Aun Wannamala.
3. Ban Pang Ha village in the northern tip of Thailand in Mae Sai.
At this community-based tourism initiative we enjoyed massages, facials, paper-making, great food and I chatted to Thiraphon Saraphrom about what makes Pang Ha so special.
Check out Amanda’s website for deeper insights into thoughtful travel in Thailand.
Thoughtful travel blogger and podcast producer Amanda Kendle shares her experiences visiting Thailand for the first time post-Covid in the first of a series of podcasts inspired by her recent visit.
Three and a half years after my last pre-Covid adventure abroad, I finally managed to get out of Australia for a short media trip to Thailand. I’m home again now and celebrating that trip along with the milestone of the three hundredth episode of The Thoughtful Travel Podcast seems very appropriate.
In this episode I’ll tell you a little bit about my trip to Bangkok and Chiang Rai – more to come on these destinations in future episodes – and about how I felt to be leaving Australia. I’ve also included an extract from a chat I recently had with my friend Jean, who took her first post-Covid trip to Iraq a couple of months ago, and had lots of similar thoughts about this “new” travel experience.
Of course, I always try to be a thoughtful traveller, and like to divide ways to be thoughtful into before, during and after a trip, so in this episode I ponder how well I did with this, considering it was a trip that arose at fairly short notice. And finally, I ask our Bangkok guide Suree for her tips on how we can be thoughtful travellers in Thailand, and she has plenty of advice for travelling and, to be honest, for life in general.
Check out Amanda’s website for deeper insights into thoughtful travel in Thailand.
Writing for Adventure.com, writer John Borthwick heads off on the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he can find.
The writer began his train journey in Nong Khai, northeast Thailand to travel from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he could find.
Borthwick’s Thailand railway travel tips include booking ahead, especially if close to Thai public holidays. “In sleeper class, choose the lower bunk; wider and slightly more expensive,” he says.
Here’s a short extract – you can read the full story at Adventure.com.
A red-hot sun bellyflops, slowly, into the Mekong. For a moment, I imagine the great mother river erupting, boiling itself dry like a thermo-nuclear tea kettle.
The river is as calm as a monk. And as the sun recedes, a thumbnail moon soon hangs in the dusk above it. Propped on the Thai shore with the lights of Laos coming on across the water, I ask myself, “Why leave?”
Arriving somewhere special, only to then leave it for somewhere else is the paradox that inhabits most of our travels. I’ve come to Nong Khai in northeast Thailand in order to leave—in this case on a train, and then on more trains, from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route I can find.
Every Thai train station has a gleaming brass bell. At 7.45am sharp, Nong Khai’s station master steps up to his one and gives it a resounding whack. Train 76 lurches forward, moving south to Krung Thep, aka Bangkok.
Arctic aircon, the way Thais like it, chills this second-class carriage. But the seats are padded, unlike the slatted benches of hard-arse class that I recall from years ago. A snappily-dressed conductor scans our tickets. My fellow travellers are mothers and kids, couples, and a rotating cast of snack vendors who work the aisles. Shun, a Japanese traveler in the seat next to me, soon pulls down his hoodie and barely stirs for the rest of the journey...
Our regular contributor, award-winning writer John Borthwick has fun imagining what might happen if William Shakespeare and other great scribes were to visit Thailand via a chatbot app.
Thailand, often shrink-wrapped by marketing tag-lines and so many S-words: Land of Smiles, Singha, sand, sex and so on. In search of fresh descriptions of this fine destination I logged into AI – artificial, alleged intelligence – to see if literature’s hottest wordsmiths could beat the common cliches.
I asked an AI chatbot to “do” Thailand in the style of famous writers. First off, the 19th century Australian bush poet, Banjo Paterson. Within 30 seconds the lit-bot was off and balladeering:
In Bangkok’s streets where the people meet, The tuk-tuk’s beep and the vendors greet, With a smile so wide and a heart so sweet, In the style of Banjo Patterson’s beat
Ouch! Verses purple as the Aussie weed, Paterson’s Curse. Thailand’s great capital deserved truer grit than that, so I keyed-in “Bangkok, by William Burroughs” — a scary thought. The ghost of the mordant, American Beat novelist soon came out, growling.
The streets are alive with a frenetic energy that pulses through the veins of the city, drawing in the unwary and the curious alike. From the seedy bars of Patpong to the glittering temples, Bangkok is a place of extremes, where the sacred and profane collide in overload, a city that takes you to the limits of sanity and beyond.
Mercifully, Burrough’s dark prose wasn’t in his infamous Naked Lunch style, but it was still way better than the usual over-curated travel tropes. On a roll, I prompted the bot to have a go, improbably, at “William Shakespeare on Koh Samui”. The Algorithm-upon-Avon courteously obliged and poetically opined:
Here on this isle, a stage for love and fate, Where travellers come to seek a new estate, And where, amidst the shimmering tropical light, A play of passion doth unfold each night.
Here Romeo and Juliet may meet, Beneath the swaying palms and tropic heat, Their love a flame that doth the world defy, And passion deep that doth the soul untie.
Tropical tosh, agreed. But let’s give credit where it’s due: the bot was flash as a rat with a gold tooth when it came penning instant iambic pentameters.
Sticking with Thai islands as seen by British scribes, I dropped the radical novelist Jeanette Winterson into Koh Phi Phi. The AI voice switched to third-person voice, schmooze mode.
It was a perfect escape. She had come to Phi Phi to find solace, to escape the pressures of everyday life and immerse herself in the natural world … time seemed to stand still, Jeanette felt at one with the world around her. She closed her eyes, feeling the warmth of the sun on her skin and the soft sand between her toes.
If one could sue an algorithm, Winterson surely would have it up for aggravated banality. Undeterred, I pressed on, proposing a visit to Phuket by that superb chronicler of Tudor England, the late Hilary Mantel. The chatbot reckoned,
Mantel would see the layers of history that have shaped this island. From the ancient trade routes that brought Chinese and Indian traders to the recent influx of Western tourists seeking sun, sand and sea. She would delve into the darker side, where the excesses of tourism have taken their toll. She would see the towering resorts and flashy nightclubs, and the impact they’ve had on the island’s ecology and culture.
Fair enough. And not a swaying palm, mad monarch or headless ex in sight.
Hilary’s AI tale, however, proved more convincing than the next take, novelist Lee Child’s hard man Jack Reacher on the lam in mystical Phang Nga Bay.
Reacher, on the run from a dangerous criminal organization takes refuge in the caves that dot the bay … he discovers clues that lead him to a hidden treasure, and must use all his skills to outwit the criminals and claim the treasure for himself.
More like the blurb for Biggles Goes Troppo than Jack the avenger strikes again.
I persist with the “hero on holiday” theme, curious to see how Jo Nesbo’s Oslo detective Harry Hole might see a Thai airport.
A den of thieves and smugglers, where the worst of society came to hide. He made his way through the crowds, scanning for signs of trouble. He could smell the fear and desperation, a heady mix that made him feel alive. And then he saw her. A young woman, standing alone by the baggage carousel …
The AI bot had gone AWOL. Nesbo Noir had landed in Phnom Penh 1978, not the Chiang Mai of today. Instead, I dialled-up Chiang Rai, this time as from the pen of rock group Cold Chisel’s roadhouse poet, Don Walker.
I caught a plane to Chiang Mai A city full of colour and light, Temples gleaming in the sun A thousand years of history, it’s a sight.
No cheap swine with a three-day growth could have done worse. Moving on, my final searches, Pattaya as seen by Salvador Dali (“where palm trees grow upside down”) and Hua Hin banged out in rap (“Yo, dude, listen up …”) were beyond comic, even for a robot.
Over a Singha and a dish of spicy somtam I reverted to old Banjo Paterson for an exit algorithm algorhyme:
So let us raise a glass to Thailand’s land, With its beaches, rice fields and jungle grand, And to the people who make it so damn grand, In the style of Banjo Patterson’s command.
Sweet. Except that in Banjo’s time “Thailand” didn’t exist. The country was still Siam.
Travel writer Jarryd Salem, one half the hugely popular Nomadasaurus travel blog team, recently revisited Koh Tao to find out more about the region’s marine conservation programs and was inspired to undertake the Ecological Monitoring Course run by local dive centre Black Turtle Dive.
Jarryd shares his experience on the Nomadasauris blog – here’s a taster:
On my first visit to Koh Tao in 2014 I completed my PADI Rescue Course, along with my Wreck and Enriched Air (Nitrox) specialties to further advance my skills.
Now with around 100 dives under my belt, I returned in 2023 to dive as much as possible and document my experiences as I stepped into the world of conservation.
It’s no secret that I love Koh Tao, and it was a real pleasure to be returning to the place that almost became home and start to give back to the reefs.
Most of my time on this gorgeous island was dedicated to doing the Koh Tao Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) course with Black Turtle Dive, and it proved to be one of my most transformative experiences since first getting certified as a scuba diver more than a decade ago.
Finally, I began to understand the importance of marine conservation with firsthand experience, and how I could make a meaningful difference.
In this blog post, I’ll share my experience with the EMP course in Koh Tao, what I learned, and how it changed my perspective as a diver forever.
The Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) is a specialised scuba diving course that focuses on the documentation and conservation of marine ecosystems.
Offered by the non-profit organisation Conservation Divers and conducted exclusively in Thailand by the experienced team at Black Turtle Dive in Koh Tao, the course teaches divers about the complex relationships within coral reef ecosystems, various marine species identification, and the techniques required for underwater surveys.
The Ecological Monitoring Program is traditionally a 4-day course and combines practical diving skills with in-depth knowledge of marine biology and ecological monitoring techniques.
The goal is to equip divers with the tools and understanding necessary to contribute effectively to ongoing conservation efforts, not just in Koh Tao but around the world.
The data collected during these reef surveys, which are done weekly in Koh Tao, are then uploaded to a government-approved database so that scientists can track the health of the reef over time.
I’ve since discovered that these are the same types of surveys conducted by marine biologists all over the globe, including at my home on Magnetic Island in the Great Barrier Reef.
It’s a hugely beneficial and worthwhile course, and I was beyond thrilled to be learning these skills.
Author and renowned underwater photographer Nigel Marsh shares his recent experience diving the Similan and Surin Islands and exploring the rainforest landscape of Khao Sok National Park.
Thailand is blessed with some of the most interesting landscapes and wildlife in the world, both above and below the waterline. There is nothing better than combining these two worlds and one of the best combos is a dive trip to the Similan Islands and a rainforest experience at Khao Sok National Park.
I have been fortunate to travel to Thailand many times over the last thirty years and have explored most parts of the country to experience its wonderful culture, cuisine, ancient cities, busy towns, amazing national parks, and its fabulous diving. However, in all those trips I neglected a visit to Thailand’s best dive destination and largest national park. An oversight that was corrected when I recently joined a special Diveplanit trip to the Similan Islands and the Khao Sok National Park.
The Similan Islands portion of the trip saw us spending three days diving from the Sea Bees’ liveaboard Marco Polo. Arriving in Phuket and then transferring to Khao Lak, we boarded the vessel at 8am. This comfortable dive boat accommodates 12 passengers in twin air conditioned cabins with ensuites and is well laid out for diving. With our luggage stowed and our paperwork complete we were quickly underway and heading to the Similan Islands, just three hours off the coast.
The Similan Islands are located 70km off the west coast of Thailand and are a marine park. There are eleven rocky islands in the group, and each is surrounded by beautiful coral gardens and home to a great variety of fish and invertebrates. The islands are only dived from November to May, when the seas are calm, and are best explored by a liveaboard boat.
On our three-day trip we did ten dives and explored coral gardens, rocky pinnacles and a shipwreck, representing only a small portion of the dive sites available in the area. A unique feature of this area is the corals grow directly on the granite rocks that form the islands and pinnacles, making for some very interesting terrain.
On day one we dived West Ridge at Koh Bon and Koh Tachai Pinnacle and enjoyed 30m visibility. Each site had lovely coral gardens, with spectacular soft corals, gorgonians, sea whips and whip corals. However, the highlight for me was the impressive fish life, including schools of barracuda, trevally, fusiliers, and snapper, plus a great variety of angelfish, rockcods, butterflyfish, surgeonfish, wrasse, triggerfish, and morays.
Richelieu Rock is often visited by whale sharks and manta rays.
On day two we dived Thailand’s most famous dive site – Richelieu Rock. This massive pinnacle rises from 35m to break the surface and is covered in beautiful corals and an extraordinary number of fish and invertebrates. Over two dives we saw schools of pelagic fish, gropers, morays and smaller critters like ribbon eels, harlequin shrimps, and mantis shrimps.
There were even a few endemic fish that I had never seen before – the red saddleback anemonefish and the Peter’s toby.
On our final day we returned to the spectacular Koh Tachai Pinnacle and also enjoyed a dive at Koh Bon Pinnacle, seeing lovely corals and masses of fish. However, our final dive was very special as we explored the Boonsung Wreck on the way back to port. This old tin dredge is broken up in 18m, and doesn’t have the best visibility, usually around 12m, but is covered in fish. Massive schools of snapper, trevally, fusiliers, and bullseyes swarm over the wreck and are joined by angelfish, gropers, lionfish, porcupinefish and a great collection of honeycomb morays.
After three wonderful days of diving, we headed back to port, ready for our next adventure at Khao Sok National Park. After an overnight stay at Khao Lak, we were picked up in the morning and transferred to the Elephant Hills Camp.
Khao Sok National Park is the largest park in Thailand and contains the country’s largest tracts of virgin rainforest. A limestone mountain range traverses the park, with countless spectacular karst formations dotting the landscape.
The stunning landscape was the first thing I noticed when we arrived at Elephant Hills. This eco resort has glamping style tents for guests, set around a central reception/bar/eatery. After check-in and a tasty lunch, we join an afternoon tour. This included a ninety-minute canoe safari down the Sok River, where we spotted longtail macaques, a water monitor, and several snakes as we drifted through spectacular gorges.
We then visited the elephant park, which is home to a dozen rescue elephants. We fed and patted the elephants and learnt a little about their history and the importance of elephants to Thai culture.
The next day was more touring, with a two-hour bus journey to Cheow Lan Lake. This massive waterway dominates the national park and was formed by the construction of Ratchaprapha Dam in the 1980s. There we joined a longtail boat, exploring the lake, which is dominated by tower cliffs and karst formations, before arriving at the Elephant Hills Rainforest Camp. You can stay at this floating camp and explore the rainforest, but with limited time we enjoyed a wonderful lunch, swam in the lake, and kayaked the waterways. There is some amazing wildlife in the area, and we spotted dusky leaf monkeys and several bird species.
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All too soon my Thailand reef and rainforest combo tour ended, leaving me wanting much more from this area.
Contact Diveplanit Travel to book a similar Rainforest to Reef trip.
World famous dive destination, Koh Tao aims to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.
The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) in cooperation with the Ko Tao Tourism Association organised the ‘Spotlight Koh Tao 2023’ fam trip to Ko Tao in Surat Thani province from 7-9 April 2023, in line with its ‘Reborn the Nature’ project and to drive forward its promotion of responsible tourism and meaningful travel experiences.
The Spotlight Ko Tao 2023 fam trip aimed to raise awareness among voluntourism sector, divers, and groups of tourists who value environmental responsibility, and lead to travel package sales that will generate local income and help revitalise Thai economy.
Participating in the trip were 68 media and influencers and entrepreneurs, and representatives of Asia and South Pacific travel businesses with a focus on creating responsible tourism trends.
The fam trip programme offered various conservation activities such as coral restoration, mooring buoy repairs, marine debris collection, coral surveying, building fish homes, and tree planting. Participants also had the opportunity to make ‘Sea Glass’ jewellery from bottle waste and broken glass, ‘CoCo Tie Dye Ko Tao’ fabric from coconut husks, ‘ECO PRINT’ fabric with leaves, and ‘Plas-Tao’ by turning plastic waste into new products. Other highlights of the trip included the Ko Tao Green market, Mini Dive & Adventure Expo, island-style sports, and trying the delicious local food.
Participants invited by TAT Sydney are a renowned underwater photographer – Jayne Jenkins and accomplished underwater cinematographer – Tom Park. During their time on Koh Tao, both have participated in some underwater marine conservation activities with Black Turtle Dive. They also spent a few nights on Ko Samui in which they have visited a few temples, Samui Elephant Sanctuary – the first ethical and award winning elephant sanctuary on Ko Samui, Hua Thanon Fisherman Village and Mu Ko Angthong Marine Park – one of the most beautiful marine parks in Thailand.
While in Koh Tao, both participated in marine conservation activities and sustainable workshops – and enjoyed several memorable dives, including the stunning Sail Rock. Topside, the pair also experienced conservation in action at Samui Elephant Sanctuary.
Surat Thani province including Ko Tao is a world-renowned destination for those wanting to learn to dive, and it is aiming to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.
This festival of the underwater world showcases the many responsible tourism and meaningful experiences in Koh Tao, Koh Samui, and Mu Koh Ang Thong National Marine Park.
Travel writer Roderick Eime explores the mighty megamall of ICONSIAM.
Bangkok’s newest megamall, ICONSIAM, opened in 2019 to great fanfare on the eve of the global pandemic. The US$1.5 billion complex must have had investors in a cold sweat as cities and travellers came to a grinding halt for two years.
In spite of the unfortunate timing, the opening went ahead and the enormous retail, residential, hotel, exhibition and entertainment precinct opened to the public “out of a strong desire to present all that is great about Thais and Thailand.”
Excited by the superlatives used to describe this megamall, I ventured to the site via the free ferry that leaves Sathorn Pier right next to the Saphan Taksin BTS station on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya River.
Credit: Supanut Arunoprayote via Wikimedia Commons
The boat deposits us at the private pier at the foot of the towering 70- and 52-floor residential towers that sit atop the ten floors of the half-million square metres of retail space. That’s 90 football fields, by the way. And the larger of the two towers, the Magnolias Waterfront Residences, is now the tallest building in Bangkok, pipping the King Power MahaNakhon by four metres.
You can also reach ICONSIAM on the dedicated BTS (Gold) Line, or if you have your own car, park in one of the 5000 spaces.
Credit: Supanut Arunoprayote via Wikimedia Commons
The glittering ground floor atrium is like entering a cathedral devoted to the magnificence of consumerism. I’m immediately confronted with the global denominations that represent the almighty gospel of glamour: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace and Boss among the 500 stores and 7000 brands.
Credit: Roderick Eime
In an effort to display some economic equilibrium, the range of stores and goods extends from the dizzying heights of Porsche and Prada to 7-Eleven and Starbucks. Diners can choose from more than 100 eateries and indulge themselves with Michelin-starred Blue by Alain Ducasse through every layer to the grassroots of the sprawling food court, Sook Siam, on the ground floor where global gastronomes can sample street-priced cuisine from Thailand’s 77 provinces.
Credit: BunBn via Wikimedia Commons
Credit: Roderick Eime
“It looks like a hyperreal version of Thailand in food court form,” says Thai-born Kisnaphol ‘Sid’ Wattanawanyoo, a Lecturer at Melbourne University’s School of Architecture and Design, “you could also say, being located on the royal river, it follows the flow of history back to when British traders opened up Thailand to the world in the mid-19th century. To this end, ICONSIAM follows that tradition and is representative of the best of Thailand.”
Credit: Fabio Achilli via Wikimedia Commons
That philosophy is echoed precisely in the creators’ mission, the same company that brought us Siam Paragon, Siam Center and Siam Discovery.
“ICONSIAM has operated under the guiding principle of collaboration to benefit all sectors of society,” said Pasinee Limatibul, Chairman of ICONSIAM Co., Ltd at the centre’s launch, “and is proud to serve as a new symbol of collaboration and as proof that collaboration in society can yield great and sustainable benefits for all citizens and the nation.”
Lofty ideals perhaps, but Thailand’s political pragmatism has seen the country rise from a paddy-field economy to a regional powerhouse without the devastating colonial conflicts inflicted on its neighbours during the last century or more.
An excursion to ICONSIAM can easily consume a full day if you were to explore the enormity of it all. Even a simple, leisurely walk around each of the ten floors with a stop for a latte or bubble tea, can amount to a substantial hike. My pesky smartwatch even congratulated me on reaching 10,000 steps hours earlier than I would normally.
Travel writer John Borthwick considers all options traveling on Thailand’s transports of delight and occasional despair.
Bicycle (City)
In Bangkok, sheer masochism. The Big Mango’s traffic is constant and intimidating; might is right and two wheels are “wrong” unless they’re attached to a motorbike. Chiang Mai’s traffic is safer.
Bicycle (Touring)
On the other hand, seeing Thailand by cycle is a joy, especially if you choose a flat, under populated province like coastal Prachuap Khiri Khan. There are numerous cycle tour companies like Spice Roads and Grasshopper Adventures.
You can also join cycle tours to raise money for Thai charities, such as those organised in Australia by Hands Across the Water.
Mass Transit, Bangkok.
The capital has an ever-expanding system of well over 60 BTS SkyTrain and MRT metro subway stations that whisk you over or under the street-level snarls. They’re clean and airconditioned although often SRO crowded. The SkyTrain has a one-day Unlimited Pass for 150 baht that’s ideal for visitors; or there’s a 120-baht day pass for the MRT.
Canal Boat
Skinny canal boat ferries rocket along Bangkok’s khlong, making fleeting pit-stops at commuter wharves. Leap on and off — almost literally — at wherever stop you want. The conductor collects fares on board. This is a cheap-as-chips tour of Bangkok’s watery backdoors.
Car
Major international companies like Hertz, Budget and Avis, as well as local brands, offer late model vehicles (all are right-hand drive) for self-driving. But, for convenience and sightseeing, seriously consider hiring a car plus driver. Meanwhile, be sure to understand the insurance policy and always drive with your passport, your home country driver licence and an international driving permit on you.
Coach or Bus
Long-distance intercity buses crisscross the country. They are large, airconditioned, economical, colorful, have allocated seating and run to schedule (often on the hour), departing from large suburban bus stations like BKK’s Ekamai (eastern) and Mo Chit (northern) terminals.
Inter-island Ferry
Travelling to poplar islands like Chang, Krabi, Kood and others is done by large ferry — some carry vehicles, others only people. Meanwhile speedboats (see below) serve the smaller islands. On some ferry services like Hua Hin—Pattaya you need to have official ID; for foreigners, this is your passport.
Longtail Boat
Rua hang yao are narrow-hulled craft with a howling diesel motor and long, extended propeller shaft — the “long tail”. They’re found everywhere from city canals to island beaches. Sit low, hang on, wear a life jacket if there is one and be prepared to cop some spray.
Motorcycle
Rental motorbikes are popular in most tourist centres and thus are a regular source of injured and dead foreigners. Understand: wear the helmet (it’s the law, despite all the Thais who don’t wear one). Stay sober (what could possibly go wrong? — you lose your insurance cover, for starters). Never assume you have right of way. Carry your passport and driver licence on you (and never leave either one as “deposit” for the motorbike). Question: does your travel insurance cover you? Probably not, unless you hold a valid motorcycle licence from your home country. (Australians, please note, a car licence is insufficient for motorbike insurance.)
Motorcycle Taxi
Moto-si dudes linger like home boys on city corners wearing numbered, low-vis vests. State your destination. Then agree on the fare — prices start from about 60 baht for a short trip, depending where you are. Use the helmet. Settle back for a slipstreaming, tailgating, maximum monoxide view of the traffic stampede. Freaky fun.
Plane
Thailand has an extensive domestic air network serviced by good carriers like Nok, Thai Smile, Air Asia and Bangkok Airways.
River Ferry
Bangkok has several main ferry services. The local commuter service, the Chao Phraya River Express is quick, crowded and cheap. It services numerous whistle-stop wharves and an on-board conductor collects fares. The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat is visitor-oriented and stops at piers near all main attractions — a one-day pass for 200 baht is recommended. The main departure point is Sathorn aka Central Pier, at Saphan Taksin Bridge. A new electric ferry service called My Smart Ferry is now operation, running between Rama V Bridge and Sathorn/Central piers, with weekend cruise itineraries.
Songtaew or Baht Bus
In many places the most popular and economical form of suburban travel is the songthaew — “two seat” — a canopied light pick-up truck with two, inward-facing bench seats in the rear. Generally, they run on local circuit routes and passengers join and alight at any point, paying a flat fee. In Pattaya (where they are also called “baht buses”), for instance, the fare is 10 baht for Thais and foreigners alike. A longer journey is 20 baht. In other tourist destinations like Samui you might encounter invidious “double pricing” for foreigners.
Speedboat
Large passenger launches, with a canopy and powerful outboard motors, service smaller islands and daytrip excursions. They are fast and reliable but can be a bit crowded. Grab a life jacket and wear it. Make your reservation in advance.
Taxi
Bangkok meter taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Many drivers speak little English so it’s good to have your destination address written in Thai script. Be sure the meter is on (flag-fall, 35 baht); if the driver won’t use it (“Sorry, broken”), just hop out — the next cab is about one minute away. Things are more difficult on some popular tourist islands where most taxis won’t use the meter and demand extortionate fares; try to use your hotel transfer service instead.
Tuk-tuk
The iconic tuk-tuk (real name samlor, “three-wheel”) is unmetered and drivers will charge whatever they think they can. Usually more expensive than a meter taxi. Don’t start your ride without agreeing on the fare. Mutant tuk-tuks are sometimes called Skylabs, such as on Koh Si Chang.
Van
Intercity passenger vans are fast, furious, frequent and risky. They have a dubious safety record in a country with one of worst road fatality figures anywhere. Flyer beware. Catch the bus or train instead.
Train
Thailand has a good rail network and rail travel is a great way to see the country and to meet Thai people. Trains run on time and are clean, even if the rolling stock aged. The Bangkok—Chiang Mai Express is the classic rail journey, a 750-km night ride that will rock you on the narrow, one-metre gauge track. Reserve your seat in advance especially if travelling near public holidays. For much convenience and a small fee, book through an agent.
