Travel blogger Holly O’Sullivan learned the hard way that you can’t always rely on non-stop sunshine when you’re travelling, and on a recent visit to Phuket, despite the rain, she was determined to enjoy herself.
It was raining the day I arrived in Phuket but I made it my mission not to let it stop me from enjoying my trip.
Luckily a lot of companies allow you to postpone tours because they themselves don’t know how the weather will turn out – but some operators still continue through the rain.
Here are some things to do during a rainy holiday in Phuket
1. Get a spa treatment
One of the best ways to experience some of Thailand’s culture is to sample one of the various types of spa treatments available. My top two recommendations would be:
Thai Massage: these are usually done without oils, in comfortable silk pyjamas – often Thai massages take place in private room divided by curtains with dim lighting. Thai massages are relaxing, yet more energizing than most forms of massages. A popular comment made is that having a Thai massages is like doing yoga without any work. Get bent in all different directions with a Thai Massage that leaves every joint cracked and every knot removed.
Milk baths: can you really leave Phuket without taking advantage of one of the beautiful milk baths filled with flowers? An unforgettable experience is to get a scrub and massage treatment, which consists of being covered in a body scrub, then relaxing in a milk bath, and finishing off with an oil massage.
2. Trickeye Museum
One to take the family to, Phuket’s Trickeye Museum is an experience that will fill up your photo albums. ‘Museum’ probably isn’t the best term, as it is an interactive experience with 3D paintings that offer unique photo opportunities.
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3. Phuket Aquarium
You’re on an island that is pretty well known for its snorkelling opportunities, so if it’s raining, why not get a better look at the fish? The recently renovated Phuket Aquarium is a great place to take the family, and gives the kids a chance to run around in the underwater tunnels.
4. Phang Nga Bay day tours
Sure you’re probably thinking, why would I want to do the Phang Nga Bay tour in the rain? But once you’re out discovering caves and mangroves you’ll realise that Phang Nga Bay can be just as beautiful in the rain.
5. Stroll through the Upside Down House
Baan Teelanka, is the first and only upside down house in Thailand and is whatever you make of it – certainly a few good photo opportunities. With free WiFi, you are able to stay connected to your social media and post some of the unique photos that the attraction provides.
6. Take a cooking class
A lot of Phuket’s hotels have cooking classes so guests are able to learn and make traditional Thai cuisines. Popular dishes to be made in cooking classes are; Thai Green Curry, Som Tam, and Tom Yam Goong.
7. Have a go at Thai Boxing
If you’ve already taken a stroll down Bangla Road by Patong Beach, you’ll realise just how popular Thai boxing is. Exciting enough on TV, if you’re not going to attend a live show, you can take a class. There are many training camps all over Phuket and all cater for different skill levels – from beginners to professionals.
8. Take part in a beach cleanup
Many of Phuket’s resorts are working towards a single-use plastic free future, no longer serving drinks with plastic straws or selling products in plastic bags. Some organise regular beach cleanups, with a few such as Aleenta Resort, rewarding individuals for their cleanup efforts with a free coffee and also organising regular community beach cleanups where volunteers are rewarded with a free beach BBQ.
9. Explore Old Phuket
Phuket Town is a historical town that makes a part of Phuket City – it’s main street is Thalang Road which is home to cafes, bars and shops all within the traditional architecture that was constructed many years ago when Phuket was a centre for tin mining.
Copyright John Borthwick
10. Go white water rafting
So it pretty much says it in the name, but what are the chances you wouldn’t get wet when white water rafting? So adding a little rain to that could make it even more exciting.
Holly O’Sullivan blogs about her travels at THATraveller.com and visited Phuket as a guest of the Tourism Authority of Thailand.
Phuket is open and welcoming travellers once again. Expat Aussie travel writer Michael Cullen provides an update on the Pearl of the Andaman Sea.
US NEWS recently ranked Phuket number 8 in their top 30 “World’s Best Places to Visit.” They raved about its outstanding sights, scenic beauty, food scene, and culture. Other pluses were the choices to fit all budgets for accommodation, excursions, and spa and wellness.
Credit: Michael Cullen
There are also the island’s welcoming locals, outstanding beaches, laidback tropical lifestyle, and easy connections to the surrounding islands. Add to that adventure activities like jungle zip-lining, excellent water sports, family-friendly water parks, and fabulous shopping, to mention just a few attractions. Additionally, Phuket’s international airport means Thailand’s largest island is easily accessed, often with direct flights from your home destination. That’s a lot of positives.
One bonus in the pause of visitors during these last two years is that the island’s natural resources rested and rejuvenated. Always part of its allure, the island’s forests, beaches, coral reefs, and marine and land-based wildlife have thrived and are in the best condition people can remember.
In the post-pandemic world, many travellers look for outdoor activities, and less crowded places to keep them and their travelling companions safe and Phuket offers that and much more.
So read on to learn why now is the perfect time to visit Phuket.
Phuket’s Beaches
Phuket has some of the most amazing beaches in Thailand and perhaps, all of Southeast Asia. Its west coast beaches, in particular, are known for their stunning beauty, fantastic sand quality, clean, calm waters, and the potential for spectacular beach sunsets.
On the lower west coast, Kata and Karon Beaches, with their long, broad expanses of sand, are relaxed, family-friendly holiday locations. Patong’s famous 2.5 km long crescent beach remains inviting, with its water sports plus the choice of longtail and speed boats ready to whisk you out on day trips. Kamala’s 2 km long wide beach with its beginner and intermediate surf breaks remains uncrowded.
Surin, Bang Tao, Nai Thon, and Nai Yang, further north along the west coast, have great sandy beaches and fewer crowds. Nai Yang and neighbouring Sirinat National Park favour those seeking extra space and gloriously long near-empty beaches.
A Wealth of History – Phuket Old Town
It was only in the mid-1970s that Phuket turned its attention to tourism. The island has over 1,000 years of rich stories, including being a major port on the trade route between Europe and Asia in the Spice Trade days. Tin mining through the 19th century saw an influx of Chinese migrant workers, whose influence can still be seen in present-day Phuket. And in recent times, plantations of rubber, coconut, pineapple and palm oil are all actively cultivated.
Credit Michael Cullen
Phuket Old Town is a great starting point for learning more about the island’s history. Grand historical buildings and museums offer insights, while photographers will delight in the restored shop houses’ Sino-colonial architecture. Rassada, Thalang, Phang Nga, Dibuk, and Krabi roads and the smaller Sois (lanes) branching off is where you will find most points of interest. Take your time wandering these to get a sense of the area and its treasures. You’ll find cool cafes and cute boutiques, plus ‘old world’ authentic eateries along the way to entice and enthral.
Be sure to stop at the Thai Hua Museum on Krabi Road first to get the big picture and delve into the island’s tin mining history (it’s much more interesting than you might think) and Phuket Town itself. It has a fantastic display highlighting the Town Centre’s original buildings and a paper map for self-guided walking tours.
And do return Sunday evenings for the Walking Street Market. Stretching along Thalang Road with the restored pastel-toned Sino-Portuguese houses as the backdrop, this is a market worth visiting. Stalls line this busy walking street with entertainment, food, drinks, and arty knickknacks. Boutiques, cafes, bars, and galleries in some buildings are also open. A great market to sample the diversity of Phuket street food.
Wildlife Encounters
Thailand and other SE Asian countries have a history of native animals being ‘tamed’ and used in industries, including tourism, or illegally sold to overseas collectors. Something the Kingdom has now consciously moved away from. Here are two rescue and rehabilitation project recommendations that will positively connect you with the wildlife.
Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is Phuket’s most ethical in its care and treatment of Thailand’s revered pachyderms. There are no riding or bathing with the elephants, yet many opportunities to be close and see these rescued giants being themselves. The sanctuary’s new, 600-metre-long and 6-meter-tall canopy walkway means elephants have maximum freedom to naturally roam, forage, bathe and socialise in the jungle below. Visitors can observe them from above and from a safe and respectful distance whilst hiking through the 30-acre sanctuary on guided tours. There are several other elephant parks on the island but be sure to choose Phuket Elephant Sanctuary if you want the confidence you are supporting the most ethical.
The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project has successfully reintroduced 50 gibbons back to the wild and into the same jungles where these primates were poached to extinction 40 years ago. Visitors of all ages can spend a half-day as a ‘gibbon research assistant’ making nutritious banana leaf food parcels and delivering them to the long-distance feeding system. You do not get up close, as these primates are being readied for the wild. You will hear their stories and learn how to differentiate and understand their high-pitched calls and the hidden meanings in their movements. Visit by advance bookings only.
Temples & Viewpoints
Buddhism is an essential part of Thai culture and its people’s beliefs. Here are two opportunities to respectfully glimpse into this aspect of Thai life.
Big Buddha (Phra Phuttha Mingmongkhon Akenakkhiri) is a 45 meter tall seated Buddha covered with beautiful Burmese white jade marble. The sculpture sits high on a hill and is visible from many southern parts of the island. The views provided over Chalong Bay alone are worth the visit.
Wat Chalong (Wat Chaitararam) is the highly revered and most significant temple in Phuket. Locals claim to have experienced miracles, and it is known for its healing role in fighting between Chinese secret societies in the late 1800s. The Wat is on the way to Big Buddha, making it convenient to experience the two in one outing.
With at least ten viewpoints overlooking the island’s beaches and cities, you can visit a new one every day. Some are harder to access than others, requiring some trekking or scrambling.
Promthep Cape, on the southern tip, is one of the most popular, especially sunsets, and has a large car park. And just 1.5 km north is Windmill Viewpoint, between Nai Harn and Prompthep, with fabulous views west. You can also catch sunrises from there.
Panwa Viewpoint, also known as Khao Khad Views Tower, offers 360° views over southern and eastern Phuket. This lesser-known viewpoint has ample parking and is located on the way to Cape Panwa. The stairs are a bit of a climb, yet more than worth it once at the top.
Rang Hill lies northwest of Phuket City, providing city and distant beach views. Photographers might prefer to visit in the early evening, as the lights start to twinkle across the island. Rang Hill is also an excellent spot for dinner on the open restaurant terraces with panoramic city views.
Island Day Trips off Phuket
Phang Nga Bay, with its limestone karst outcrops and islands, is a well-known and easily accessible day trip from Phuket with many operators ready to take you. Ko Phi Phi and that famous ‘beach’ from the similarly named movie is also open, though with some access restrictions. Visitors can not swim from the beach now, so this is more photo opportunity than reliving the movie scenes.
If you want somewhere not so familiar, consider some of Phuket’s 32 smaller islands, some just 15 minutes by boat. Koh Racha and Koh Hea (Coral Island) are popular, as are Koh Maiton and Koh Khai, with visits that include swimming, snorkelling, and other water fun from picture-perfect beaches. Take your pick of a longtail boat, speedboat, or catamaran tour for day visits.
Credit: Michael Cullen
Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi are two larger, less-visited islands in the middle of Phang Nga Bay. These are not tourist islands, although each offers a choice of family-run guesthouses and discreet high-end resorts. Experience island life as people go about their self-sufficiency focused existence growing rice, rubber or fishing. Swim in secret lagoons, be in awe of the imposing limestone karsts, spot hornbills, lunch on fresh seafood at quaint beachside restaurants, and take selfies on the powder white sands of Laem Haad Beach, which featured in the Hollywood movie ‘Mechanic 2’.
Phuket’s famous lobster farms are found between these two islands, and if in season, you are in for a treat. Asian Trails arranged our day trip to Yao Yai and Yao Noi islands, and the ability this private tour gave us to tailor our day was excellent. General day tours can also be easily arranged. Simply consult your hotel’s tour desk.
Phuket Feasting
Since 2015, Phuket has been designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, making it the first city in Thailand to receive this recognition. Phuket’s Baba cuisine was the reason for this listing and recognised the traditional food of Baba-Peranakans, descendants of the early, mainly Hokkien Chinese who migrated here and intermarried with locals melding cultural traditions and cuisines.
The famous Blue Elephant restaurant features Baba-Peranakan dishes and is a must-try for a memorable Phuket dining experience. The classic Sino-colonial architecture of this Phuket Old Town restaurant is reason enough to visit. The on-site gift shop means Thai food lovers can take home authentic curry pastes, sauces and other premium ingredients to continue the Thai food experience.
Blue Elephant is also renowned for its Cooking School, and what better way to learn about Thai food than hands-on. Our chef instructors’ insights into the health and medicinal benefits of the fruit, vegetables and herbs we used in cooking added extra context to the food we created. You even get to eat your culinary creations at the end of the class.
Thai Master Chef Nooror is the heart and soul of Blue Elephant. She is a leading advocate and educator of Thai cuisine through her restaurants in Thailand (Phuket and Bangkok) and Europe (Copenhagen and Malta).
Another sure way to eat your way around Phuket is with Thailand’s Michelin Guide. The 2022 edition lists 58 eateries, from simple Thai cafes to the luxurious dining experience of PRU – Phuket’s only Michelin Star restaurant. All deemed worthy of inclusion by the Guide’s judges.
Take, for example, Roti Taew Nam, a communal breakfast spot in Phuket Old Town. Sit on simple stools at your pavement table and watch roti rolled, cooked over coals and served with eggs or banana, or plain with a side to homemade curry. Surprise your taste buds and wallet using the Michelin listings to guide your Phuket feasting.
What Are You Waiting For?
Now is the time to make the most of reopened and welcoming Phuket and all this glorious island has to offer. We’ve only scratched the surface of what awaits. Looking forward to seeing you soon!
About Michael Cullen
Michael is an Aussie now based in Thailand. As a freelance writer and compulsive traveller, he loves discovering new places, delving into the history, and experiencing the local food and culture wherever he ventures.
After two years of no international travel, many people seeking a more mindful, sustainable travel experience. According to guest writer Michael Cullen, many are looking to travel with purpose – travel with the heart.
Image: supplied, Chivit Thammada
After more than two years of little to no travel, airlines, travel companies, and international travel organisations are seeing increases in global movement thanks to the easing of restrictions. And with borders finally opening, new travel trends are emerging.
People are not looking for more of the (pre-pandemic) same. Many are travelling more mindfully, seeking sustainable travel, boutique and authentic experiences. People want to experience nature and the outdoors, hands-on and immersive encounters, and activities impacting positively on the local community and environment.
People are looking to travel with purpose or, put another way – want to travel with the heart.
To assist your northern Thailand travel planning – Chiang Mai, the Golden Triangle and Chiang Rai – here is a range of activities, experiences, and opportunities that fit the travel with the heart concept.
Organic, Farm-to-Table and Slow Food
Food is an essential part of any travel, and Thai food is one of the world’s most popular cuisines. Within Thailand, regions have their own distinct style and dishes, which is undoubtedly true for the north. Elements of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Chinese cuisine have influenced northern food. The cooler climate brings many kinds of vegetables, including cultivated and from the wild, plus mushrooms and aromatic herbs used in cooking. Less coconut milk is used, and the curries are milder than those in the south.
And in the north, a growing trend is farmers adopting organic practices, which is seen in fruit, vegetables and herbs, and coffee and tea production. Farm to table is how local people have lived for centuries, though now restaurants bring that concept to Chiang Mai’s general dining public. Here are three local companies bringing these ideas together for your dining pleasure.
Image: supplied, Ori9in Gourmet Farm
Ginger Farm, originally a rice plantation on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, has adopted organics and free-range methods with the farm open for educational visits. Their conveniently located and busy Ginger Farm Kitchen at One Nimman features Thai dishes incorporating their farm-fresh produce. Another organic and farm-to-table adopter is Ohkajhu, started by three local university graduates in 2013. They have two restaurant outlets in Chiang Mai fed by their farms – the original in Sansai to the north of the city and one close to the airport. I love the generosity of their tasty Thai dishes.
Image: supplied, Ori9in Gourmet Farm
Ori9in Gourmet Farm is the brainchild of Michelin trained Chef James Noble and his wife, Khun May. They supply organic and sustainable produce to some of Chiang Mai and Bangkok’s best high-end restaurants and some of the region’s most notable hotel brands. During the non-rainy season (October to March), they operate the “Waiting for May” picnic restaurant on-site. Have a gourmet picnic in the gardens enjoying all farm-fresh ingredients and Chef James’ culinary flair. Farm tours are also available to picnickers.
Image: supplied, Chivit Thamma Da Cafe and Bistro
Travel with the heart dining in Chiang Rai must include Chivit Thamma Da Cafe and Bistro. Situated in two lovely colonial-style buildings on the banks of the Kok River, Chivit Thamma Da is a strong supporter of Slow Food. This means organic and sustainable, local (no imported food miles) and Fair Trade, thus ensuring their local producers and suppliers can share in their success. An absolute favourite in Chiang Rai, open from 9 am to 9 pm daily.
Cooking Schools – Hands-On Learning
Cooking schools are easy to find across northern Thailand. Here are two suggestions that resonate with our travel with the heart theme.
Image: supplied, Thai Akha Cooking School
Thai Akha Cooking School is just a kilometre south of the Old City, offering morning and evening classes. Members of the Akha Hill Tribe community operate this cooking school. As well as preparing and enjoying several Thai dishes, you will gain some insight into the Akha people and their stories. Cooking instructor Niti had our group captivated from start to finish.
Image: supplied, Thai Farm Cooking School
As the name suggests, Thai Farm Cooking School is based on their own organic farm just 17 km from central Chiang Mai. They have an office in the Old City and provide city pickup/return as part of their full or half-day course. As well as creating and eating several classic Thai dishes, you get to see where your organic produce comes from – literally just a couple of meters outside the cooking kitchen. Organic farmer and cooking instructor Khun Sawat’s genuine enthusiasm is infectious.
Massage
Holidays are not complete without pampering and relaxation, and Thai massage is a must when visiting the “Land of Smiles”. Said to have its roots in India and practised for 2,500 years, the healing benefits of Thai Massages are well documented. From simple to deluxe, Thai massage studios can be found wherever you travel in the Kingdom, and northern Thailand is no exception. Here are a couple of options that easily link with our theme.
Image: supplied, Lila Massage
Lila Thai Massage has two conveniently located studios in Chiang Mai’s Old City, offering an extensive treatment menu, and has a compelling back story. Former Director of Chiang Mai Women’s Prison, Naowarat Thanasrisutharat, during her tenure, instigated a massage therapist training program to equip selected soon-to-be-released inmates with skills to help support their lives. And then, in 2008, Khun Naowarat created Lila Thai Massage, becoming a direct employer and dedicated training ground for these women as they re-join society. Pre-pandemic, Lila Thai Massage had eight operating studios across Chiang Mai and hopefully will be reopening these as international visitors return. It is our first choice for Thai massage when in Chiang Mai.
Image: supplied, Supatra Blind Massage
Our other choice is blind massage, with many of the current masseuses getting their break thanks to Dr Aud Kaewthong. In the 1980s, he took a massage class in Bangkok and realised that, due to being born blind, his sense of touch was profoundly developed. Thanks to Dr Aud, more than 1,000 blind massage therapists now work in Thailand, and his training has spread into other Southeast Asian communities. Examples of this movement are Supatra Blind Massage in the northeast corner of the Old City, a simple and highly regarded studio. Perception Blind Massage has a slightly more polished feel and is just inside the Thapae Gate of the Old City. Both are excellent options to experience your blind massage.
Image: supplied, Lisu Eco Lodge
Community-based Tourism, Hilltribes, and Immersive Experiences
Lisu Eco Lodge is only a 50-minute drive north of Chiang Mai city and is a community-based tourism project operated by the local Lisu hill tribe people. The lodge has four spacious guest houses in a tranquil valley surrounded by organic rice fields, vegetable gardens, and orchards. Two day-one-night stays on a half-board basis will have you experiencing community life first-hand, including a guided village tour. Add-on activities like guided nature walks, bamboo river rafting, or other hill tribe experiences can be arranged. Be sure to do the tour of their award-winning Araksa Tea Gardens less than 6 km from Lisu Lodge.
Image: supplied, Araksa Tea Gardens
Journey to Freedom is a week-long full-immersion project that embeds (paying) volunteers into a Karen hill tribe community while gaining a fascinating insight into rehabilitated elephants’ lives. Witness the daily life of the Karen people, become involved in the community and experience intimate encounters with the world’s largest land mammal. You will learn about agriculture and community, develop learning experiences for local school children, assist in the daily care of elephants and live in a cultural exchange at a tribal village in the mountains of Chiang Mai.
Image: supplied. Journey to Freedom
Elephant Nature Park is an elephant rescue and rehabilitation centre just 60 km north of Chiang Mai. Founder ‘Lek’ Saengduean Chailert has championed ethical elephant conservation since 1996. Her “Saddle Off” care of rescued elephants is now being adopted by many camps and conservation parks across Thailand. The park currently offers sanctuary to elephants, buffalo, numerous dogs, cats, birds, and many other rescued animals. You can visit for a day, overnight, or stay on-site for the fully inclusive and highly regarded week-long volunteering programs. If caring for elephants seems daunting, their dog or cat shelters have many furry friends waiting for your attention.
Image: supplied, Elephant Nature Park
Chiang Rai – Immersive Farm Stays and Eco-Luxe Resorts
Just under 40 km northwest of Chiang Rai at the base of Mae Salong Mountain is Ahsa Farmstay. A working farm with four delightfully rustic-luxe guest rooms, perfect for couples, solo travellers and families. Stays are full-board, with much of the produce straight from the surrounding fields. As most meals are an opportunity for a cooking class, get ‘hands-on’ with your host family and learn the art of Lanna (Northern Thai) cuisine, or head to the fields for some farm experiences.
Image: supplied, Ahsa Farmstay
At 32 acres, there is lots to do on the farm, from collecting fresh eggs to feeding the ducks and geese, learning about rice cultivation, or tapping the estate’s rubber trees. Guided treks in the surrounding hills, including hill-tribe village visits, are available. Return to the farm for a traditional massage or relax in Ahsa’s take on a traditional herbal sauna. There is always plenty to see, learn and experience on this working farm.
Image: supplied, Ahsa Farmstay
Phu Chaisai, which translates as “Mountain of Clear Heart”, is just under an hour from Chiang Rai and is perhaps one of Thailand’s first boutique resorts. Perched atop a bamboo clad mountain with spectacular Mae Salong valley views, Phu Chaisai is a reminder that mindful living with nature is possible, even in this modern age. Created and operated by one of Thailand’s leading interior designers, M.L. Sudavdee Kriangkrai, or Mom Da as the locals call her, its design is harmonious with its surroundings while providing suitable comfort for guests.
Image: supplied, Phu Chaisai
The fresh mountain air is cleansing and reduces the need for air conditioning, while televisions and alarm clocks are absent. Hike the marked trails on this 800-acre organic estate, visit their oolong tea plantation or learn local dishes in the resort’s cooking school. Phu Chaisai’s overall “less is more” concept creates a genuine opportunity for you to immerse yourselves in the natural rhythm and environment of the glorious far north.
Image: supplied, Phu Chaisai
Travel with the Heart
Perhaps the most significant benefit of ‘travelling with the heart’ is a richer, more satisfying, and memorable experience for visitors. Seasoned travellers can tell you it is the genuine connection with people and communities that changes you, not the destination itself. This type of responsible travel puts real faces and names to the communities we are visiting. It is an opportunity to slow down, ground ourselves and find something we have lost.
Northern Thailand has an abundance of eco-friendly, sustainable, and community-based activities for travellers who want to dive deep into the region’s essence and travel mindfully. This article highlights a few we believe are worth particular mention. Happy travels.
Chiang Rai, the lesser-known sister to cosmopolitan Chiang Mai, is well worth exploring, writes guest writer Michael Cullen in this detailed guide to road-tripping this northern Thailand region.
With its more laid-back style, visitors experience eye-popping temples, abundant nature, organic foodie trails, cultural insights into the Hill Tribe communities, and easy access to the Golden Triangle region, to name just a few offerings.
A self-guided road trip is a great way to delve into lesser-explored northern Thailand and, for couples, create cherished memories from shared holiday experiences.
Given the breadth of opportunities on offer, spending seven days (or more) exploring greater Chiang Rai would be easy. As a great starting point, spend a few days enjoying this small, amiable city, before heading further afield.
Ancient Lanna Capital & Gateway to The Golden Triangle
Thailand’s northern-most province borders Myanmar and Laos, with the border tripoint just under 70 kilometres northeast of the Chiang Rai city. The provincial capital, Chiang Rai, is serviced by direct flights from Bangkok, making the city and region easy to access. Chiang Mai, around 200 km southwest, is an alternate access point.
The region boasts a long history of smaller kingdoms, while the city of Chiang Rai was founded in 1262 by King Mengrai. It was temporarily the capital of Mengrai’s Lanna Kingdom until being superseded by Chiang Mai.
Covering approximately 11,700 square kilometres, the mainly mountainous region has peaks rising to 1,500 metres above sea level. Inhabiting the highlands are ethnic hill tribes like the Akha, Lahu, Karen, Hmong, and ethnic Chinese settlers. Apparently, the CIA coined the name Golden Triangle for the overlapping mountains of the three adjacent countries. It was one of the world’s largest opium-producing areas from the 1950s to the early 21st century.
Chiang Rai city lies on alluvial plains on the banks of the Kok River. The ‘plains’ rich soils produce a vast range of vegetables and fruits, while coffee, tea, nuts and fruit plantations hug the mountains. Over recent years, the adoption of organic production has seen the region’s agricultural reputation grow significantly.
Chiang Rai City Highlights
City Centre Temples
Within about two square km of the city centre, you can find seven Buddhist temples and numerous markets. Here are our top picks.
Near the Clock Tower is one of the most interesting temples, Wat Ming Muang, because it is so different from any other in town. Additionally, Queen Ta La Mae Sri, and not her husband King Mengrai, is said to have founded this temple. According to the legend, 14th century Wat Phra Kaew’s stupa was struck by lightning, revealing the highly revered Emerald Buddha, now enshrined at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. Within the temple grounds is a compact museum housing a replica. From the same era, Wat Phra Singh, adjacent to the Post Office, houses a replica of the holy statue Phra Buddha Sihing, the original now enshrined in Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh.
Markets
Markets provide tremendous insight into the region’s produce, people, local food styles and daily life. They are a buzz of activity, a riot of colour, a cacophony of noise, and stimulate a sense of intrigue and sometimes bewilderment.
Ngam Mueang Market (5 am to 6 pm) off Ruangnakron Rd is indoors with everything from fresh seafood, meats, fruit and vegetables to clothing and haberdashery. Also undercover is Municipal Fresh Market 1 open (6 am to 9 pm). About 600 meters from the gleaming gold Clocktower is the busy Sirikorn Fruit and Vegetable Market, with photogenic fresh flower stalls nearby.
Chiang Rai boasts two walking street Night Markets. Thanalai Road transforms into the Saturday Night Market from 4 pm till late, offering everything from tasty Thai street food, local artisans’ artefacts, dance, and an open area to sit back and enjoy the festivities. The Sunday Night Market on Sankhongnoi Rd (or Happy Street) had a strong reputation for offering excellent local crafts and delectable street food and is expected to reopen as visitor numbers increase. The Night Bazaar behind the central Bus Station runs every evening and is the most touristy and, therefore, less authentic market in Chiang Rai.
Local Dining & Cafés
Chiang Rai has an abundance of eating outlets, from street stalls and casual family-run noodle shops to restaurants offering local and international cuisine.
Popular northern Thai dishes include Gaeng Hung Lay curry, Sai Oua sausage, Nam Prik Noom Kab Moo, the noodle and pork dish Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew, and most famous – Khao Soi.
Khantoke, a wood pedestal tray, is another northern Thai tradition where people are seated on the floor with the tray in the centre acting as a table. Toke-Tong Restaurant offers this unique experience in a delightful welcoming garden. Tantalise the tastebuds and enjoy fun eventing while sharing and devouring a range of northern Thai dishes, including the specialities mentioned above.
For sky-high sundowners and a stunning sunset, The Peak atop the upmarket Riverie Hotel is a must-visit spot for cocktails or a romantic dinner and some dazzling photos.
Coffee loving couples rejoice, Chiang Rai grown and roasted beans, at the hands of skilled baristas, deliver some knock-out coffee. In the city centre, try Arabitia Cafe, Akha Hill Coffee and Doi Chaang Coffee, and just south, The Roast Coffee, a personal favourite.
Museums
Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park, under Royal Patronage, houses the region’s most extensive collection of Lanna artefacts in two stunning traditional teak timber halls. Complementing this well maintained and fascinating museum is gloriously maintained gardens, ponds and a quality gift shop.
Oub Kham Museum features the extensive and remarkable collection of museum curator Julasak Suriyachai whose lineage is traced back to a Shan royal family of Kengtung in Burma (Myanmar). Exhibits include royal regalia, handicrafts, and artefacts, displayed in buildings amongst beautiful gardens and courtyards.
Insider tip: close by on Ratyotha Rd is ‘Khaosoi 100 Year Café’ with excellent Khao Soi.
‘Road Trip’ North of the River
Across the Kok River, this short road trip is around 30 km and includes a must-visit café beside the Kok River, unique temples, a museum visit, and a look around the countryside.
Wat Huay Pla Kang, with the immense gleaming white statue, dominates the landscape and features three impressive structures, including the Phop Chok Dhamma pagoda displaying Thai, Chinese, and European design influences and an all-white (inside and out) Thai style sermon hall. The dominant and imposing white statue of Kuan Im, the Goddess of Mercy, has an elevator to the 25th floor where you take in beautiful district views looking through the eyes of the Goddess. This complex cares for 500+ orphans, and you can help by buying items for donation.
Baan Dam (or Black House) is a museum created by Chiang Rai-born artist Thawan Duchanee, who resided on the complex until he died in 2014. In various classic teak and more unusual igloo-style buildings are many of Duchanee’s artworks and objects, including animal bones, skins, and skulls. It sits within peaceful, well-cared-for grounds.
Insider Tip: Stop at Ruk Raek Coffee immediately adjacent to the museum entrance and carpark for a great organic coffee or tea and a quick snack.
Wat Rong Sear Tean (Blue Temple) is mesmerising with vivid blues and bright golden touches on the roof and eaves. The temple is exquisitely designed and full of Buddhist imagery, including a gigantic, magnificent white porcelain Buddha. Murals adorn the walls inside, while motifs delightfully wind their way around blue pillars. The ceiling is a work of art in itself.
Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House & Bistro is just 300 meters from the Blue Temple and sits on the banks of the Kok River. This coffee house and bistro is a Chiang Rai must-visit.
‘Road Trip’ South – White Temple, Waterfall & Singha Park
Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) is around 13 km south of Chiang Rai. In the style of a Buddhist temple complex, this privately-owned art exhibit was designed and constructed by Thai visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. It is a stunning example of contemporary and traditional Thai architecture creating a temple structure unlike any other. The onsite gallery sells artwork by Kositpipat.
About 15 km southwest is Nam Tok Khun Kon National Forest Park. Take this beautiful 30-minute walk along meandering paths to the Khun Kon waterfall, surrounded by rainforest and towering bamboo. With a 70-meter drop, it is the highest waterfall in Chiang Rai. Outside of the wet season, swimming at the base of the falls may be feasible but consult with Park officials first.
Rounding out this 60 km road trip is a visit to Singha Park, a 14 square kilometre recreational wonderland. Visitors have abundant choices with extensive walking and cycling tracks, plus family water activities, rock climbing, and ziplining.
For Instagram fans, the vast fields of pastel-coloured flowers and the rolling tea plantation are a must. Cafes and restaurants are spread throughout this popular park. For something extra romantic and memorable, enjoy a Hot Air Balloon experience or visit during their annual ballooning festival.
‘Road Trip’ East for Cloud Seas
Around 90 km east of Chiang Rai city are the mountains bordering Laos, with Mount Phu Chi Fah the most famous. Most visitors stay overnight, taking the 760-meter hike up an unpaved track to the summit to experience sunrise from the peak’s viewpoint. In Winter, a sea of clouds rolls through the valleys below, providing an eery though evocative scene. And it can be pretty cold in those hours around dawn. A further 12 km from Phu Chi Fah is the less-visited viewpoint, Phu Chi Dao, with magnificent views of the Mekong River in the Laos lowlands below.
Insider Tip: Detour to the impressive organic farm, restaurant, and glamping site, Rai Ruen Rom, on your journey out or back. Enjoy a healthy meal in the café, browse their shop with unique gifts and souvenirs and wander the gardens and farm.
Golden Triangle Loop (3-5 days)
This extended loop takes you through many of the highlights of the Golden Triangle region, including Chiang Saen, 60 km northeast of Chiang Rai, the Golden Triangle Viewpoint, Doi Tung, Mae Salong and more.
One of the oldest cities in Thailand, Chiang Saen, was established early in the 14th century. It was a strategic border post of the Lanna Kingdom, an important centre of Buddhism, and a vital stop-off point along the old Chinese-Siam river trade routes. After a turbulent history, including being captured by the Burmese and then destroyed by King Rama I, Chiang Saen became a ghost town for several hundred years.
Present-day Chiang Saen is low key with its historical past and old city ruins as part of its attraction. While you’re in town, visit the Chiang Saen National Museum and some impressive temples, such as Wat Pa Sak, Wat Phra Chao Lan Thong, and Wat Phra That Pha Ngao. Stroll along the banks of the Mekong River, bicycle around the monuments, and enjoy inexpensive, delicious local food at street-side vendors. Bird enthusiasts will enjoy Chiang Saen Lake, especially during the migratory season. Sunsets over the lake can also be spectacular.
To further tap into the local history, stay at the family-owned and run Athita The Hidden Court boutique hotel, situated just 70 meters from the Mekong and next to the 700-year-old Wat Athi Ton Kaew. The family are keen to share their heritage and culture with guests, making this an ideal base.
Golden Triangle Viewpoint About 11km north of Chiang Saen is the village of Ban Sop Ruak, the tripoint of Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand. The Ruak River forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar and joins the Mekong at this point. Great photo opportunities abound, including a Golden Buddha (Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin) sitting atop a specially constructed metal and glass boat on the riverside. Longboat trips on the Mekong are also available.
A few kilometres from this point is the expansive Hall of Opium Museum and a highly recommended stop. The museum tells how Royal sponsored initiatives, including specific programs from Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother, turned the denuded mountains of the region from illegal poppy growing and opium drug production to more uplifting and inclusive community development outcomes. Such programs are still positively serving local communities many years on.
Golden Triangle Mountain Communities
Mae Sai
From the tri-border point, road trippers can head northwest around 50 km to the bustling border town of Mae Sai, Thailand’s northernmost point. At the border immigration point, there is the potential for a brief crossing into Myanmar for a photo opportunity. Approximately 12 km south of Mae Sai, though off the highway, is Tham Luang – Khun Nam Nang Non National Park, where the now-famous cave rescue played out over 18 days in mid-2018. National Parks have now created an information display showing how the rescue unfolded.
Doi Tung – Mae Fah Luang Region
If time is short, head straight from the Mekong (40-50 km trip) to the Doi Tung (Tung Mountain) region, the centrepiece of many of the change initiatives highlighted in the Hall of Opium Museum. For the last 30 years, the Doi Tung Development (Social Enterprise) Project has been the driver of change. Creating a region that now boasts sustainable communities focused on high-value crops like coffee and macadamia nut, plus thriving (and international award-winning) ceramics, textiles, and handicrafts.
Must-sees include the spectacular 10-acre temperate-climate Mae Fah Luang Garden. Tour the Royal Villa, a Swiss Style Chalet built for the late Princess Mother when she was in the region. Learn how the Royal Family positively impacted this region and its Hill Tribe communities at the Hall of Inspiration. If open, challenge yourself on the suspension bridges of the Doi Tung Tree Top Walk. Be tempted in the Doi Tung boutiques, enjoy Doi Tung coffee, and if staying overnight, the highly regarded romantic Doi Tung Lodge rounds out your mountain-top experience.
Mae Salong
From Doi Tung, you can drive across the mountain tops to the tea-growing region of Mae Salong (approximately 45 km) while being rewarded with sensational verdant outlooks as you traverse the winding roads.
Mae Salong (also called Santikhiri) has long been an Akha hill tribe community. Its population grew by a few thousand ethnic Chinese nationalists who fled their homeland in 1949, after the Communist Revolution. The Thai government gave them citizenship on the agreement they become trusted members of the community and established Oolong Tea, mushrooms, and such agricultural products. The town is built along a meandering narrow ridge, with lanes and streets running off the main (ridge) road.
Tea production is undoubtedly a big part of this region, as visits to Tea Plantation 101 or Wang Put Tan Tea Plantation demonstrate. Several Chinese tea houses in town provide samples and packaged tea to take home. Coffee is also grown in the region and is worth seeking out for coffee lovers.
Other attractions include the Chinese Martyrs’ Memorial Museum, which tells their story and how the Chinese immigrants helped the Thai Army root out communist insurgence in Thailand as part of their settlement deal. Hilltop Phra Boromathat Chedi (Thai-style stupa) overlooks Mae Salong village with rewarding views and is worth driving up. This glorious Wat was built in honour of the late Princess Mother and is very restful.
The early morning market is excellent for discovering the local produce and securing your Akha hill tribe handicraft. A selection of the local eateries offer tasty Dim Sum and Yunnan style noodle dishes and are worth seeking out. And while wandering the central (ridge) road, check out the street art murals telling humorous local stories. There is a broad selection of accommodation in Mae Salong, and we enjoyed this boutique family run Guest House that had outstanding town and district views.
Mae Salong to Chiang Rai
The return journey to Chiang Rai from Mae Salong is about 60 km, taking you back through regional communities and farmlands before joining Highway 1 back to the city and Chiang Rai airport.
Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle region have so much more to offer as you take the time to explore. We hope the details provided here inspire you to make the trip and sample the delights of Thailand’s far north for yourself.
Picture a country as diverse in its natural beauty as it is fascinating with cultural heritage. Where you can be exploring deserted tropical islands one day, and wandering through centuries-old Buddhist temples the next.
This is what you’ll find in Thailand, the Land of Smiles, a place so spectacular that one visit is never enough and you could spend a lifetime venturing from beach to village to city and always find something new to marvel at.
In today’s world of travel, where we all document our experiences through social media, it’s only normal to want to capture the best moments possible of our adventures and share them with our friends and family.
On our most recent trip to Thailand we did just that, filling up countless SD cards with images and videos of our favourite places. And even after spending almost a year total travelling in Thailand, we still found plenty of new spots to shoot.
If you’re planning a trip to Thailand (and let’s be honest, now is the perfect time to be booking that flight!), let our 7 best Instagram moments help guide you on where to visit that’ll turn your grid into a wanderlust-fueled bucket list!
Pha Jun Jaras Viewpoint – Ang Thong Marine Park, Koh Samui
Sometimes you have to work to get that perfect Instagram shot, and the Pha Jun Jaras Viewpoint in Ang Thong Marine Park is a perfect example of that.
Just a short boat ride away from Koh Samui, the spectacular island of Koh Wua Ta Lap is one of the most beautiful places in the Gulf of Thailand, with lush forests, crystal clear seas and the magnificent Emerald Lake attracting thousands of nature lovers every year.
The real crown jewel of the island though is found at the top of a steep climb at the Pha Jun Jaras Viewpoint.
Don’t let the hundreds of stairs put you off. The view from the summit is completely worth the effort, as you’ll be rewarded with one of the most magical vistas in Southeast Asia.
Phuket Old Town – Phuket
Phuket may be best known for its white sand beaches and award-winning resorts, but did you know it’s also home to a gorgeous historical town as well?
Pry yourself away from the coast and check out Phuket Old Town, with its colourful collection of 19th-century Sino-Portuguese style homes and businesses.
Wandering the narrow alleyways feels like you’re stepping back in time, and you’ll find plenty of restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and even ice creameries to keep you busy while you gaze in delight at the Peranakan architecture.
Pull up in front of your favourite colourful house and grab those Instagram snaps! Bonus points if you can coordinate your outfit to match.
Floating Rafts – Cheow Lan Lake
Khao Sok National Park is one of the most rugged places in Thailand, with an abundance of wildlife roaming the mountains from ox to elephants and even tigers.
As wild as it is though, it’s still possible to visit, and the most popular place to check out is Cheow Lan Lake, the man-made reservoir most famous for its limestone islands and unique accommodation.
Here you can spend the night in a floating bamboo raft house, where you’ll literally be sleeping on top of the lake in a basic yet comfortable room that can only be accessed by boat.
There’s nothing quite like watching the sunrise while gently rocking in your own floating hotel cabin, hypnotised by the sounds of gibbons swinging and hornbill birds singing.
Koh Yao Noi
Throw a dart at a map of southern Thailand and you’ll likely land on a tropical island that looks like it’s inspired a million ‘Wish You Were Here’ postcards. Koh Yao Noi, just 45 minutes from Phuket, is no exception.
This traditional and tranquil spot is the smaller sister of nearby Koh Yao Yai, but what it lacks in size it makes up for gorgeous Instagram spots!
Jump on a longtail boat and cruise around the sea to find your own private beach, or simply zip around between the fishing villages for a real local vibe. No matter where you go you’re guaranteed to be filling your grid with more content than you can shake a smartphone at.
The Temples of Chiang Mai
There’s more to Thailand than just beaches (and delectable food). The Land of Smiles is also home to some of the most fascinating cultural buildings in Asia.
Chiang Mai, Thailand’s spiritual hub in the north of the country, is teeming with Buddhist temples that will take your breath away.
You could spend months visiting every temple in Chiang Mai, but if you’re looking for the most photo-worthy options to see in a day, check out Doi Suthep, Wat Umong and Wat Suan Dok.
Finish up your temple-hopping excursion at Wat Phra Singh in the Old Town, which is sensational when the sun sets and the lights of the complex turn on.
Wat Arun – Bangkok
No trip to Thailand is complete without a few days spent bouncing around all the amazing things to do in Bangkok.
This bustling metropolis is truly one of the most interesting capital cities in the world, and no matter your interests you’re sure to find plenty of things to photograph during your trip.
When it comes to temples and royal residences, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho are two of the most beautiful places to visit. But our personal recommendation if you’re looking for a uniquely Bangkok Instagram shot is to head across the river to Wat Arun, aka the Temple of Dawn.
If you’re really lucky you may even find a few monks dressed in their flowing orange robes climbing the steep steps. No need for selfies here – Wat Arun guide you in what you want to shoot.
Elephant Hills – Khao Sok National Park
We have saved the best for last on our list of the top 7 Instagram moments during our recent trip to Thailand – Hanging out with rescued elephants!
The elephant is the national symbol of Thailand, and you’ll never forget the first time you see one up close.
Thankfully the days of riding elephants for tourism are coming to an end, so the best way to spend time with one of these majestic creatures is to visit a reputable sanctuary. These days Thailand has a number of responsible, sustainable elephant sanctuaries around, and one of the best is Elephant Hills in Khao Sok National Park.
Elephant Hills is home to 12 female elephants that have been rescued from the logging and entertainment industries. They have been brought to their sprawling property to rehabilitate and live out their days under the watchful eyes of trained mahouts who put their health and wellbeing above all else.
You can visit Elephant Hills on one of their exclusive safaris, where you’ll learn all about the Asian elephant, prepare food for them and observe the happy animals wandering around. It truly is an experience that will stay with you forever.
About the authors: NOMADasauras
Alesha and Jarryd are the co-founders of NOMADasaurus, Australia’s largest adventure travel blog. Travelling the world together full-time since 2008, they seek out unique cultures, adventures and destinations, documenting their experiences through writing, photography and video. You can follow their journey on their website, Instagram and YouTube.
Exquisite food, fascinating culture, magnificent landscapes, exciting cities – Thailand’s repertoire for travel inspiration is enticing indeed. But when these elements combine, that’s when the romance happens. Mr & Mrs Romance, Jim and Christina Butcher, share their Top 10 reasons to pick Thailand for a romantic escape.
Every time we visit Thailand it feels more like coming home than the last. Yet, each time we arrive, it’s like we’ve unlocked a hidden room, revealing another dimension to the Land of Smiles. So, when people ask us what we love about Thailand the most, we usually start with one answer… and it very quickly becomes a list. It’s almost impossible to separate any one part of this amazing country from its sum.
Even better, joining each element with any of its counterparts means you can create potentially boundless recipes for romance, adventure and moments that will stay with you forever. While we all dream of travel, here are 10 things we love about Thailand; the things that have romanced us when we’re there and that break our hearts when we’re not.
10 Thailand travel elements that create a perfect recipe for romance
Each of these elements inspire travel, but combine one of them with at least one other, and you’ll find a sweet spot on the Venn Diagram for romance. This is what keeps us returning to Thailand time and time again.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
1. The mountains
From the monolithic islands around Phuket and Krabi to the northern highlands, Thailand has plenty of dramatic rock formations. But the likes of Doi Inthanon – Thailand’s highest mountain – have real impact. Part of the foothills of the Himalayas, these northern mountains are a remarkable feature of Thailand’s landscape.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
2. The temples
Thailand is home to over 40,000 temples of all shapes, sizes, colours and designs. And they’re everywhere – on mountaintops and city streets, in lush green jungles and on reflective riverbanks. Remember to walk around the main pagoda clockwise three times for good fortune and follow Buddhist etiquette when inside.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
3. The history
Little of Thailand’s history before the 1300s is known, but the last 700 years have provided more than enough to enlighten, educate and entertain. One of the best places to soak up some of Thailand’s earliest history is Ayutthaya – once the ancient capital of the kingdom. Only an hour north of Bangkok, this city of ruins is truly beautiful.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
4. The shopping
Whether it’s squeezing through the press and noise of Chiang Mai’s night markets that stretch through the middle of the old town or strolling through the luxurious expanses of high-end Bangkok malls like Icon Siam, shopping in Thailand is fun. Remember, shopping here isn’t just about buying things; it’s the entire experience.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
5. The bars and restaurants
Eating and drinking are cornerstones to Thai culture, so it’s not surprising that there are so many incredible gastronomic experiences to have here. Sipping cocktails at rooftop bars overlooking the capital, feasting on whole spicy barbecued seabass from shacks on southern beaches or exploring the bustling food markets in every little town between, this is food paradise.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
6. The beaches
With almost 3,000km of coastline, Thailand has beaches in spades. Whether it’s the calm waters of the Gulf of Thailand or the sunset-facing, white sandy beaches on the coast of the Andaman Sea, beach time beckons.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
7. The spas
Nothing puts you in the mood to relax more than a spa treatment, and most spas in Thailand offer couples’ packages so you can enjoy being pampered with your partner beside you. The resorts and hotels throughout the country offer wonderful services that will leave you feeling lighter than air.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
8. The sunsets
It’s always a good idea to keep an eye on the setting sun in Thailand. You’re usually up for a treat. On the west coast, the sun sinks into the ocean, but you can also catch it dipping behind palaces and pagodas in Bangkok and mountain temples in the north.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
9. The culture
From food, fashion and festivals to arts and crafts, architecture, religion, and lifestyle, from the moment you arrive in Thailand, you’re immersed in its rich culture. But while Thai culture is immediately apparent, it’s also so nuanced that there’s always something new to learn, something to keep you coming back.
Credit: Christina Butcher, Mr & Mrs Romance
10. The sea
Warm and welcoming, the Gulf and the Andaman Sea are perfect for sailing, snorkelling, scuba diving, swimming and surfing. And from the deck of a boat, a whole new aspect of Thailand emerges. Little islands and atolls appear on the horizon, lagoons that would otherwise be unreachable become part of your itinerary, and seclusion from everything but the romance of Thailand is yours.
While waiting for Covid19 to go get lost, the blog’s longtime correspondent John Borthwick re-visits Thailand via some of the best writing about the Kingdom.
Thailand has been celebrated in many genres of literature from fiction and fantasy to poetry, non-fiction and sci-fi, so let’s armchair travel a few of them.
Through Thai Eyes
Jasmine Nights is a magical and poignant novel by Thai author and musical composer S.P Somtow. His semi-autobiographical romp is hailed as “the classic coming-of-age tale in Thailand of the 1960s.” Set in his aristocratic family’s time-warp enclave (“our remote little island kingdom on Sukhumvit Road”) the tale is alive with eccentric aunts, suitors, princelings and a pet chameleon. And then add sex, politics and farce.
Pira Sudham writes acclaimed novels and short stories about ordinary Thai life — no bars, spas, wannabes or five swizzle-stick resorts here — usually among the poor rural regions of Isaan, north-eastern Thailand. His best-known work Monsoon Country follows a farmer’s son journey to Bangkok and then as an overseas scholarship student — paralleling Sudham’s own path. Look too for his short story anthology It is the People.
Thailand‘s much-loved royal poet Sunthorn Phu (1786—1855) led a life of romance, scandal and banishment that is mirrored in his own works. As “the People’s Poet of Thailand” he has been compared to Shakespeare in the range and national importance of his works. His poetic saga Phra Aphai Mani traces a Byronic hero’s romantic adventures in ancient Siam. Koh Samed is the setting for one tale of a lovesick mermaid and exiled prince, which is commemorated today in the statues of the lovers on the island’s Sai Kaew Beach. Not far from Samed you can also visit the Sunthorn Phu Memorial Park in Klaeng, Ranong Province.
A Fictional Land of Smiles
Ex-Hong Kong lawyer John Burdett has written six best-selling Thailand crime novels featuring his eccentric Thai-farang police detective Sonchai Jitpleecheep. Set mostly in a Bangkok of dirty politics, bizarre murders and sometimes equally bizarre sex, these street-smart page-turners are full of gloriously bent characters, hungry ghosts and dark shots of comic relief. Start with Bangkok 8 and binge on.
Burdett’s cast of good- and evildoers is more nuanced than the penny dreadful dames and private dicks in the prolific Christopher G. Moore’s Bangkok novels. His who-dunnits like the popular Killing Smile trilogy are set in a city that seems to consist predominantly of bars and illumination by red lights. Alternatively, his short story collection Chairs isrecommended.
“Thailand is the Italy of Asia. Great food, beautiful women, joyously corrupt and totally dysfunctional,” says Jake Needham, author of half a dozen taut, intelligent thrillers set in Thailand. The Big Mango, A World of Trouble and Killing Plato are perfect stuck-in-the-airport novels. His well-informed plots are steeped in international politics, big money bastardry and the onion layers of pan-Asian corruption. (The Wall Street Journal Asianotes, “Mr. Needham seems to know rather more than one ought about these things.”) Plenty of sharp dialogue and always a rattling good pace. Needham’s work is notches above much farang-written Thailand fiction that typically comes with a G-Rating: gumshoes, girls, guns and goons.
Best-selling Nordic noir superstar Jo Nesbo penned a Bangkok crime tale way back in 1998 that was only much later translated to English. Cockroaches sees his Oslo police detective-defective Harry Hole in Bangkok investigating the murder of the Norwegian ambassador who has turned up dead in a seedy motel. As they do. Go-go bars, temples and opium dens are the by-now clichéd backdrops to Harry’s hunt.
The Windup Girl by Paolo Bacigalupi is a cyberpunk science fiction tale of gene thieves, agro-corp wickedness and a beautiful, quasi-human woman, the “windup girl” of the title. All struggling in a future, post-apocalypse Bangkok where heavily armed government departments go to war against each other. Imagine William Gibson’s Neuromancer meets Blade Runner during a GM-induced famine…
Alex Garland’s 1996 novel The Beach needs little introduction, having morphed into a 2000 Hollywood movie that then inspired cycles of devastation-by-visitation on Koh Phi Phi Leh’s formerly edenic Maya Bay. Set on a generic island (in the Gulf of Thailand, but could be anywhere), a tribe of backpackers sees their feral heaven crash to a tropical purgatory as events go troppo, psycho and then kaput! The novelhas been accurately dubbed “the Lord of the Flies for Gen X”.
Behind the Night Bazaar by Angela Savage partly subverts the paradigm, as they say, of male derring-do (or being done-to) in Thailand by at least having a female protagonist and with the action set in Chiang Mai rather than Bangkok. Savage’s private investigator is a 30-ish Australian woman facing the sometimes-comical challenge of “working undercover in a place where she can do anything but blend in.” That place is, of course, a world of murder, bent cops and exploitation.
When A Woman of Bangkok by Jack Reynolds appeared in 1956 the Asian Wall Street Journal reviewed it rather generously as “Among the ten finest novels written about Asia.” That’s a big call for the yarn of naïve Western male meets unscrupulous foreign temptress. “Love in vain” is a familiar literary trope played out to this day (and night) in much Thai-focussed, farang-penned pulp fiction; not to mention in real life — which partly explains this compelling novel’s on-going popularity.
Private Dancer sees veteran Irish crime writer Stephen Leather (or at least his tragic young protagonist, Pete) tread the same Bangkok sois, shed the same tears and not learn the same lessons that Jack Reynold’s callow hero didn’t learn 50 years earlier. By the 21st century, however, everything in the Big Mango’s bar world is harder and far more sinister. Poor love-struck Pete sinks deeper into obsession with a lisssom but faithless femmefatale. “Slow Learner”could be his epitaph as well as Leather’s alternative book title.
First-Personally
Canadian poet-novelist-travel writer Karen Connelly knows the kingdom and its language far better than most non-Thai authors. She skips completely the template of “Thailand = erotica + exotica” by looking and living well beyond the neon demi-monde. Try her adroit, youthful account of her exchange student year in Touch the Dragon: A Thai journal. A much later book, Burmese Lessons: A true love story is a gritty, open-heart account of her journey and love relationshsip in the northern Thai jungles amid exiled Burmese resistance groups.
On a much lighter note, expat Australian humorist Neil Hutchison’s cautionary anecdotes about foreigners looking for love in all the wrong Thai places — and yet somehow, sometimes finding it — should be mandatory in-flight reading for all in-bound males between the ages of puberty and senility. Hutcho shares his own hard-won observations of the farang-out-of-his-depth in wry titles such as A Fool in Paradise and Money Number One: The single man’s survival guide to Pattaya.
Scottish-Canadian expat Jim Algie’s journalistic explorations in Bizarre Thailand are not as kinky as the book’s click-bait tagline (“Tales of crime, sex and black magic”) might suggest. It’s full of arcane local knowledge about fertility shrines, errant monks and still pervasive Thai beliefs in superstition and magic. Funny too. In a similar but more character-focused vein, also check out two well-made books by another long-time expat writer (and acclaimed biographer of Jim Morrison), American Jerry Hopkins: Bangkok Babylonand Thailand Confidential.
In his travel book Borderlines fine English writer Charles Nicholl heads north to the Golden Triangle and then Burma in search of rebels, jade, opium traders, insights and an elusive Thai friend, Katai: “Sometimes I think that it wasn’t just Katai who ‘got away’, but Thailand itself, the whole strange trip. I never really got to know where I was going, never reached my destination. Perhaps the code of the road is as simple as that. You never do get there. There is just the road, and what it reveals along the way.” Sounds familiar?
The Non-Fiction Kingdom
The Ideal Man: The tragedy of Jim Thompson and the American way of war by American Joshua Kurlantzick is a highly readable biography of the legendary Jim Thompson, the so-called “silk king”, whose crowded career(s) included soldier, spy, socialite and entrepreneur — and ultimately, disappearing man. The book’s sub-title indicates the wider context of Southeast Asian military-political affairs. The result is an informed portrait of one of the country’s most intriguing foreign players as seen against the backdrop of post–WWII Thailand’s turbulent governance.
Journalist Paul M. Handley’s unauthorised 2006 biography of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, The King Never Smiles is banned in Thailand but easily available in Cambodia. The author takes an unflinching look at the career of King Rama IX, the world’s longest-serving monarch (from 1946 to 2016). It’s an iconoclastic perspective on the underpinnings and achievements of the king’s reign and of Thailand’s shape-shifting democracy.
While you’re in the region, Thailand’s next-door neighbour Laos makes similarly fascinating reading. Recommended are journalist Christopher Kremmer’s investigative travels to successfully discover the fate of the last king of Laos, Sisavang Vatthana who disappeared in 1975: Stalking the Elephant Kings and The Bamboo Palace: Discovering the lost dynasty of Laos.
Some of the above titles are out of print but most can be found online or as e-books. For a scholarly perspective on it all, see Imagining Siam: A travellers’ literary guide to Thailand by Dr Caron Eastgate Dann.
Platform and trains at Hualamphong, Bangkok central railway station. January 2018. Copyright John Borthwick
Bangkok’s grand Hualamphong terminus is at the heart of a national rail network stretching from Nong Khai to Hat Yai, and beyond. The station, with its Italianate facade and a vast, vaulted roof, was built in 1916 by the modernising ruler, King Rama V and is a throwback to the glory days of steam rail. Hualamphong lends your journey a thrill of ceremonial departure but go see it soon, before “redevelopment” occurs. Meanwhile, here are few Thailand rail samplers.
Guest blogger John Borthwick takes to the rails across the Kingdom.
Copyright John Borthwick
Bangkok—Chiang Mai Express. The night express to Chiang Mai is Thailand’s classic rail journey. Step aboard for the 750-km ride and be ready to rock all night (quite literally) on the narrow, one-metre gauge track. A snappily dressed State Railways inspector checks your ticket, followed by a caterer who takes meal orders. The carriages (ex-Japan Rail) are tired but clean. Stretch out on a reserved bunk and with railroad songs humming through your head fall asleep to the heavy metal lullaby of steel wheels on rackety rails. Wake in time for breakfast in Chiang Mai. This service is so popular with foreign visitors it could be re-named the Farang Express.
Thailand 2007. John Borthwick
Eastern & Oriental Express.On a train that’s a rolling work of art you can live out any “retro-Raj” fantasies (should have ‘em) during a three-night, four-day luxury rail cruise between Bangkok and Singapore, or vice-versa. To stand at the train’s rear-end, open-air viewing platform and watch Thailand and Malaysia slip away behind you, green and templed from dawn til dusk, is one of the finest perspectives anywhere in the kingdom of rails. Yes, it is both exquisite and expensive.
Talat Rom Hoop (‘Closing Umbrella Market’) on both sides of local train line.
Mae Khlong Railway.Thailand’s shortest rail line, the 67-km Mae Khlong Railway, running between Bangkok’s Wong Wian Yai and Samut Songkhram, terminates amid the melee of a local market. Thais call the place Talat Rohm Hoop — Umbrella Pull Down Market — but foreigners know it better as the Risky Market. Why? The rail tracks run through the middle of the crowded marketplace. The morning train, a two-carriage electric service, arrives with a horn blast. Hawkers rush to pull back their awnings (“umbrellas”), with only seconds to spare. As the market parts before the train like the Red Sea before Moses, the train rumbles past, inches from your face. Risky marketing, indeed.
Antique steam train icon and caution sign, at Wang Duan, narrowest part of peninsula Thailand (10.96 km) . Copyright John Borthwick
Kanchanaburi “Death Railway”.A sombre reminder of Japan’s infamous World War II Burma-Siam Railway can be visited 80-km west of Bangkok in Kanchanaburi. Tourists come to see its “Bridge on the River Kwai” (made famous in the 1956 movie of that name), although the bridge we see today is not the original structure. The “Death Railway” wasn’t named lightly. Spare a thought here for those who perished building the line — over 80,000 Thai and other Asian laborers, and 12,600 Allied POWs.
Ticket inspector checking on train, Hua Hin railway station. January 2018. Copyright John Borthwick
Bangkok-Vientiane Line.Aboard this train you’ll cross Thailand to the northeast and view Isaan in comfort but the service doesn’t go all the way Vientiane. At Nong Khai passengers cross the Thai-Lao border bridge on the Mekong River and then join a connecting shuttle train that terminates at Thanaleng, 20-km short of the Lao capital. This overnight trip is superior to its Bangkok—Chiang Mai cousin, having new carriages, better dining facilities and seats with their own power outlets.
‘Luggage Room’ sign Hua Hin railway station. January 2018. Copyright John Borthwick
Bangkok—Hua Hin-Surathani.Riding south you’ll pass through Hua Hin, 200 km from Bangkok. In the 1920s when a line was first pushed through to British Malaya, Hua Hin’s most important structure was its railway station. While you’re at the platform check out the historic Royal Waiting Room that looks like a cross between a Buddhist temple and a ticket office. Rolling on — blink and you’ll miss it — is tiny Wang Duan beside the Gulf of Thailand, south of Prachuap Khiri Khan. This whistle-stop (where the trains don’t whistle and rarely stop) has a claim to fame and a signboard to prove it. This pinch-point between the Gulf and the Myanmar border to the west is, as the sign proclaims, “The Narrowest of Thailand. 10.96 kilometres.” A few hours later your reach Surathani, jumping off spot for the ferry to Koh Samui.
Suratani Express train at Hua Hin railway station.9 January 2018. Copyright John Borthwick
Thai Train Travel Tips
Traveling in Thailand by rail is highly economical and also wise, given the country’s heavy road fatalities.
Reserve your seat in advance especially if travelling near public holidays or on the popular Chiang Mai service. For convenience (and a small extra fee), book through an agent.
With a sleeper berth, go for the slightly more expensive lower bunk; the upper one is narrower and, being near the A/C vent, colder.
More information see: www.thailandbytrain.com; www.seat61.com/thailand; www.12go.asia
If you think you know Bangkok, think again! Thailand’s bustling capital city is a treasure trove of great activities, delicious food and unique cultural experiences to suit every budget and travel style. For those keen to escape the well-worn tourist path and experience something another side to the city, guest blogger Phoebe Lee of Little Grey Box shares a few of Bangkok’s very best hidden gems!
Bang Lamphu Community Walk
Join the Kesorn Lamphu Volunteer Club on a guided tour through a side of Bangkok most tourists will never experience. Connect with locals as you learn about handicrafts passed down through generations, like costumes hand-sewn for Traditional Thai Masked Dance performances. Contact the team directly via email or direct message via Facebook here for information and bookings, with tours run on donation.
Fine-dining at R-Haan
After you’ve savoured some of Bangkok’s famous street food, head to R-Haan, on of the city’s Michel Star restaurants. The menu boasts authentic Thai cuisine taken to the next level, perfectly sampled in their Samrub, a family-style dining experience similar to a degustation.
Nuttaporn Ice Cream
Wang Lang Market
Gingerbread House
Historic Ice Cream Shop
Satisfy your sweet tooth with a visit to the historic Nuttaporn Ice Cream store in Bang Lamphu. The unassuming corner shop has been churning out delicious ice cream for over 60 years and three generations with all their flavour made from coconut milk and lavished with traditional Thai toppings like corn, pumpkin, lotus seeds and peanuts.
Wang Lang Market
Hailed as Bangkok’s best street food market, you won’t find many other tourists scouring the Wang Lang Market. Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, you’ll find an abundance of food stalls offering Thai snacks as well as clothing, arts and crafts, gifts and more. Be sure to visit before 2 pm as it closes early.
Afternoon Teat at Gingerbread House
Nestled under the shade of an 80-year-old mango tree, Gingerbread House takes up residence in a century-old house, offering the perfect respite from the Bangkok humidity. Savour refreshing sodas and a range of spectacular Thai desserts, all beautifully served in crystal dishes.
Dinner and drinks at Mahanakhon SkyBar
Take in the very best 360 degree views of Bangkok from the Mahanakhon Skywalk, 314-metres above the ground then visit Thailand’s highest restaurant and bar, Mahanakhon SkyBar, for dinner and drinks. The views here are unbeatable and the modern brasserie serves up truly delicious meals and fantastic cocktails in an elegant setting.
Wat Bowonnet Vihara
Wallflowers Cafe
Sané Cafe & Workshop
Wat Bowonniwet Vihara
The final resting place of the remains of two Thai Kings, Wat Bowonniwet Vihara is where many royal Princes and Kings have studied and served their Monkhood, including the current King. Gaze inside at the Buddha statue dating back to around 1357 and wander around the stunning temple grounds, a unique opportunity to experience Thailand’s history and local culture.
Wallflowers Cafe
Tucked down an alleyway, the airy and eclectic Wallflowers Cafe is a must-visit. Serving up an array of mouth-watering cakes and sweets there’s also a coffee menu boasting familiar favourites and quirky options like coffee, sparking raspberry and pop-rock candy! Sit a while and relax in this tranquil, hidden spot while enjoy the beautiful surrounds.
Sané Cafe & Workshop
Get hands on with Thailand’s culture at Sané Cafe & Workshop. Pronounced, ‘Saneh,’ traditional Thai dessert cooking classes aim to make local sweets more widely known among tourists and provide new culinary experiences. Be sure to try the coffee while you’re there!
Dinner at TAAN
Located on the top floor of Siam@Siam Design Hotel, TAAN combines delicious Thai fine dining with exceptional views of Bangkok. Carefully developed relationships with local farmers ensure all ingredients are 100-per cent local and the flavours are authentic, showcasing Thai cuisine in modern and delectable ways. Try the 9 or 6 course tasting menu for an unforgettable experience.
