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Nigel Marsh’s Thailand: from Reef to Rainforest

Posted on 26/05/202330/01/2024 by admin

Author and renowned underwater photographer Nigel Marsh shares his recent experience diving the Similan and Surin Islands and exploring the rainforest landscape of Khao Sok National Park.

Thailand is blessed with some of the most interesting landscapes and wildlife in the world, both above and below the waterline. There is nothing better than combining these two worlds and one of the best combos is a dive trip to the Similan Islands and a rainforest experience at Khao Sok National Park.

I have been fortunate to travel to Thailand many times over the last thirty years and have explored most parts of the country to experience its wonderful culture, cuisine, ancient cities, busy towns, amazing national parks, and its fabulous diving. However, in all those trips I neglected a visit to Thailand’s best dive destination and largest national park. An oversight that was corrected when I recently joined a special Diveplanit trip to the Similan Islands and the Khao Sok National Park.

The Similan Islands portion of the trip saw us spending three days diving from the Sea Bees’ liveaboard Marco Polo. Arriving in Phuket and then transferring to Khao Lak, we boarded the vessel at 8am. This comfortable dive boat accommodates 12 passengers in twin air conditioned cabins with ensuites and is well laid out for diving. With our luggage stowed and our paperwork complete we were quickly underway and heading to the Similan Islands, just three hours off the coast.

The Similan Islands are located 70km off the west coast of Thailand and are a marine park. There are eleven rocky islands in the group, and each is surrounded by beautiful coral gardens and home to a great variety of fish and invertebrates. The islands are only dived from November to May, when the seas are calm, and are best explored by a liveaboard boat.

On our three-day trip we did ten dives and explored coral gardens, rocky pinnacles and a shipwreck, representing only a small portion of the dive sites available in the area. A unique feature of this area is the corals grow directly on the granite rocks that form the islands and pinnacles, making for some very interesting terrain.

On day one we dived West Ridge at Koh Bon and Koh Tachai Pinnacle and enjoyed 30m visibility. Each site had lovely coral gardens, with spectacular soft corals, gorgonians, sea whips and whip corals. However, the highlight for me was the impressive fish life, including schools of barracuda, trevally, fusiliers, and snapper, plus a great variety of angelfish, rockcods, butterflyfish, surgeonfish, wrasse, triggerfish, and morays.

Richelieu Rock is often visited by whale sharks and manta rays.

On day two we dived Thailand’s most famous dive site – Richelieu Rock. This massive pinnacle rises from 35m to break the surface and is covered in beautiful corals and an extraordinary number of fish and invertebrates. Over two dives we saw schools of pelagic fish, gropers, morays and smaller critters like ribbon eels, harlequin shrimps, and mantis shrimps.

There were even a few endemic fish that I had never seen before – the red saddleback anemonefish and the Peter’s toby.

On our final day we returned to the spectacular Koh Tachai Pinnacle and also enjoyed a dive at Koh Bon Pinnacle, seeing lovely corals and masses of fish. However, our final dive was very special as we explored the Boonsung Wreck on the way back to port. This old tin dredge is broken up in 18m, and doesn’t have the best visibility, usually around 12m, but is covered in fish. Massive schools of snapper, trevally, fusiliers, and bullseyes swarm over the wreck and are joined by angelfish, gropers, lionfish, porcupinefish and a great collection of honeycomb morays.

After three wonderful days of diving, we headed back to port, ready for our next adventure at Khao Sok National Park. After an overnight stay at Khao Lak, we were picked up in the morning and transferred to the Elephant Hills Camp.

Khao Sok National Park is the largest park in Thailand and contains the country’s largest tracts of virgin rainforest. A limestone mountain range traverses the park, with countless spectacular karst formations dotting the landscape.

The stunning landscape was the first thing I noticed when we arrived at Elephant Hills. This eco resort has glamping style tents for guests, set around a central reception/bar/eatery. After check-in and a tasty lunch, we join an afternoon tour. This included a ninety-minute canoe safari down the Sok River, where we spotted longtail macaques, a water monitor, and several snakes as we drifted through spectacular gorges.

We then visited the elephant park, which is home to a dozen rescue elephants. We fed and patted the elephants and learnt a little about their history and the importance of elephants to Thai culture.

The next day was more touring, with a two-hour bus journey to Cheow Lan Lake. This massive waterway dominates the national park and was formed by the construction of Ratchaprapha Dam in the 1980s. There we joined a longtail boat, exploring the lake, which is dominated by tower cliffs and karst formations, before arriving at the Elephant Hills Rainforest Camp. You can stay at this floating camp and explore the rainforest, but with limited time we enjoyed a wonderful lunch, swam in the lake, and kayaked the waterways. There is some amazing wildlife in the area, and we spotted dusky leaf monkeys and several bird species.

All too soon my Thailand reef and rainforest combo tour ended, leaving me wanting much more from this area.

Contact Diveplanit Travel to book a similar Rainforest to Reef trip.

Spotlight Koh Tao 2023

Posted on 17/04/202307/05/2023 by admin

World famous dive destination, Koh Tao aims to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) in cooperation with the Ko Tao Tourism Association organised the ‘Spotlight Koh Tao 2023’ fam trip to Ko Tao in Surat Thani province from 7-9 April 2023, in line with its ‘Reborn the Nature’ project and to drive forward its promotion of responsible tourism and meaningful travel experiences.

The Spotlight Ko Tao 2023 fam trip aimed to raise awareness among voluntourism sector, divers, and groups of tourists who value environmental responsibility, and lead to travel package sales that will generate local income and help revitalise Thai economy.

Participating in the trip were 68 media and influencers and entrepreneurs, and representatives of Asia and South Pacific travel businesses with a focus on creating responsible tourism trends.

The fam trip programme offered various conservation activities such as coral restoration, mooring buoy repairs, marine debris collection, coral surveying, building fish homes, and tree planting. Participants also had the opportunity to make ‘Sea Glass’ jewellery from bottle waste and broken glass, ‘CoCo Tie Dye Ko Tao’ fabric from coconut husks, ‘ECO PRINT’ fabric with leaves, and ‘Plas-Tao’ by turning plastic waste into new products. Other highlights of the trip included the Ko Tao Green market, Mini Dive & Adventure Expo, island-style sports, and trying the delicious local food.

Participants invited by TAT Sydney are a renowned underwater photographer – Jayne Jenkins and accomplished underwater cinematographer – Tom Park. During their time on Koh Tao, both have participated in some underwater marine conservation activities with Black Turtle Dive. They also spent a few nights on Ko Samui in which they have visited a few temples, Samui Elephant Sanctuary – the first ethical and award winning elephant sanctuary on Ko Samui, Hua Thanon Fisherman Village and Mu Ko Angthong Marine Park – one of the most beautiful marine parks in Thailand.

While in Koh Tao, both participated in marine conservation activities and sustainable workshops – and enjoyed several memorable dives, including the stunning Sail Rock. Topside, the pair also experienced conservation in action at Samui Elephant Sanctuary.

Surat Thani province including Ko Tao is a world-renowned destination for those wanting to learn to dive, and it is aiming to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.

This festival of the underwater world showcases the many responsible tourism and meaningful experiences in Koh Tao, Koh Samui, and Mu Koh Ang Thong National Marine Park.

Exploring ICONSIAM, Bangkok’s newest megamall

Posted on 22/01/202322/01/2023 by admin

Travel writer Roderick Eime explores the mighty megamall of ICONSIAM.

Bangkok’s newest megamall, ICONSIAM, opened in 2019 to great fanfare on the eve of the global pandemic. The US$1.5 billion complex must have had investors in a cold sweat as cities and travellers came to a grinding halt for two years.

In spite of the unfortunate timing, the opening went ahead and the enormous retail, residential, hotel, exhibition and entertainment precinct opened to the public “out of a strong desire to present all that is great about Thais and Thailand.”

Excited by the superlatives used to describe this megamall, I ventured to the site via the free ferry that leaves Sathorn Pier right next to the Saphan Taksin BTS station on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya River.

Credit: Supanut Arunoprayote via Wikimedia Commons

The boat deposits us at the private pier at the foot of the towering 70- and 52-floor residential towers that sit atop the ten floors of the half-million square metres of retail space. That’s 90 football fields, by the way. And the larger of the two towers, the Magnolias Waterfront Residences, is now the tallest building in Bangkok, pipping the King Power MahaNakhon by four metres.

You can also reach ICONSIAM on the dedicated BTS (Gold) Line, or if you have your own car, park in one of the 5000 spaces.

Credit: Supanut Arunoprayote via Wikimedia Commons

The glittering ground floor atrium is like entering a cathedral devoted to the magnificence of consumerism. I’m immediately confronted with the global denominations that represent the almighty gospel of glamour: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace and Boss among the 500 stores and 7000 brands.

Credit: Roderick Eime

In an effort to display some economic equilibrium, the range of stores and goods extends from the dizzying heights of Porsche and Prada to 7-Eleven and Starbucks. Diners can choose from more than 100 eateries and indulge themselves with Michelin-starred Blue by Alain Ducasse through every layer to the grassroots of the sprawling food court, Sook Siam, on the ground floor where global gastronomes can sample street-priced cuisine from Thailand’s 77 provinces.

“It looks like a hyperreal version of Thailand in food court form,” says Thai-born Kisnaphol ‘Sid’ Wattanawanyoo, a Lecturer at Melbourne University’s School of Architecture and Design, “you could also say, being located on the royal river, it follows the flow of history back to when British traders opened up Thailand to the world in the mid-19th century. To this end, ICONSIAM follows that tradition and is representative of the best of Thailand.”

Credit: Fabio Achilli via Wikimedia Commons

That philosophy is echoed precisely in the creators’ mission, the same company that brought us Siam Paragon, Siam Center and Siam Discovery.

“ICONSIAM has operated under the guiding principle of collaboration to benefit all sectors of society,” said Pasinee Limatibul, Chairman of ICONSIAM Co., Ltd at the centre’s launch, “and is proud to serve as a new symbol of collaboration and as proof that collaboration in society can yield great and sustainable benefits for all citizens and the nation.”

Lofty ideals perhaps, but Thailand’s political pragmatism has seen the country rise from a paddy-field economy to a regional powerhouse without the devastating colonial conflicts inflicted on its neighbours during the last century or more.

An excursion to ICONSIAM can easily consume a full day if you were to explore the enormity of it all. Even a simple, leisurely walk around each of the ten floors with a stop for a latte or bubble tea, can amount to a substantial hike. My pesky smartwatch even congratulated me on reaching 10,000 steps hours earlier than I would normally.

Words: Roderick Eime.

For full details on ICONSIAM, visit the official website.

A Ticket To Ride, Thailand-Style

Posted on 11/01/202315/01/2023 by admin

Travel writer John Borthwick considers all options traveling on Thailand’s transports of delight and occasional despair.

Bicycle (City)

In Bangkok, sheer masochism. The Big Mango’s traffic is constant and intimidating; might is right and two wheels are “wrong” unless they’re attached to a motorbike. Chiang Mai’s traffic is safer.

Bicycle (Touring)

On the other hand, seeing Thailand by cycle is a joy, especially if you choose a flat, under populated province like coastal Prachuap Khiri Khan. There are numerous cycle tour companies like Spice Roads and Grasshopper Adventures.

You can also join cycle tours to raise money for Thai charities, such as those organised in Australia by Hands Across the Water.

Mass Transit, Bangkok.

The capital has an ever-expanding system of well over 60 BTS SkyTrain and MRT metro subway stations that whisk you over or under the street-level snarls. They’re clean and airconditioned although often SRO crowded. The SkyTrain has a one-day Unlimited Pass for 150 baht that’s ideal for visitors; or there’s a 120-baht day pass for the MRT.

Canal Boat

Skinny canal boat ferries rocket along Bangkok’s khlong, making fleeting pit-stops at commuter wharves. Leap on and off — almost literally — at wherever stop you want. The conductor collects fares on board. This is a cheap-as-chips tour of Bangkok’s watery backdoors.

Car

Major international companies like Hertz, Budget and Avis, as well as local brands, offer late model vehicles (all are right-hand drive) for self-driving. But, for convenience and sightseeing, seriously consider hiring a car plus driver. Meanwhile, be sure to understand the insurance policy and always drive with your passport, your home country driver licence and an international driving permit on you.

Coach or Bus

Long-distance intercity buses crisscross the country. They are large, airconditioned, economical, colorful, have allocated seating and run to schedule (often on the hour), departing from large suburban bus stations like BKK’s Ekamai (eastern) and Mo Chit (northern) terminals.

Inter-island Ferry

Travelling to poplar islands like Chang, Krabi, Kood and others is done by large ferry — some carry vehicles, others only people. Meanwhile speedboats (see below) serve the smaller islands. On some ferry services like Hua Hin—Pattaya you need to have official ID; for foreigners, this is your passport.

Longtail Boat

Rua hang yao are narrow-hulled craft with a howling diesel motor and long, extended propeller shaft — the “long tail”. They’re found everywhere from city canals to island beaches. Sit low, hang on, wear a life jacket if there is one and be prepared to cop some spray.

Motorcycle

Rental motorbikes are popular in most tourist centres and thus are a regular source of injured and dead foreigners. Understand: wear the helmet (it’s the law, despite all the Thais who don’t wear one). Stay sober (what could possibly go wrong? — you lose your insurance cover, for starters). Never assume you have right of way. Carry your passport and driver licence on you (and never leave either one as “deposit” for the motorbike). Question: does your travel insurance cover you? Probably not, unless you hold a valid motorcycle licence from your home country. (Australians, please note, a car licence is insufficient for motorbike insurance.)

Motorcycle Taxi

Moto-si dudes linger like home boys on city corners wearing numbered, low-vis vests. State your destination. Then agree on the fare — prices start from about 60 baht for a short trip, depending where you are. Use the helmet. Settle back for a slipstreaming, tailgating, maximum monoxide view of the traffic stampede. Freaky fun.

Plane

Thailand has an extensive domestic air network serviced by good carriers like Nok, Thai Smile, Air Asia and Bangkok Airways.

River Ferry

Bangkok has several main ferry services. The local commuter service, the Chao Phraya River Express is quick, crowded and cheap. It services numerous whistle-stop wharves and an on-board conductor collects fares. The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat is visitor-oriented and stops at piers near all main attractions — a one-day pass for 200 baht is recommended. The main departure point is Sathorn aka Central Pier, at Saphan Taksin Bridge. A new electric ferry service called My Smart Ferry is now operation, running between Rama V Bridge and Sathorn/Central piers, with weekend cruise itineraries.

Songtaew or Baht Bus

In many places the most popular and economical form of suburban travel is the songthaew — “two seat” — a canopied light pick-up truck with two, inward-facing bench seats in the rear. Generally, they run on local circuit routes and passengers join and alight at any point, paying a flat fee. In Pattaya (where they are also called “baht buses”), for instance, the fare is 10 baht for Thais and foreigners alike. A longer journey is 20 baht. In other tourist destinations like Samui you might encounter invidious “double pricing” for foreigners.

Speedboat

Large passenger launches, with a canopy and powerful outboard motors, service smaller islands and daytrip excursions. They are fast and reliable but can be a bit crowded. Grab a life jacket and wear it. Make your reservation in advance.

Taxi

Bangkok meter taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Many drivers speak little English so it’s good to have your destination address written in Thai script. Be sure the meter is on (flag-fall, 35 baht); if the driver won’t use it (“Sorry, broken”), just hop out — the next cab is about one minute away. Things are more difficult on some popular tourist islands where most taxis won’t use the meter and demand extortionate fares; try to use your hotel transfer service instead.

Tuk-tuk

The iconic tuk-tuk (real name samlor, “three-wheel”) is unmetered and drivers will charge whatever they think they can. Usually more expensive than a meter taxi. Don’t start your ride without agreeing on the fare. Mutant tuk-tuks are sometimes called Skylabs, such as on Koh Si Chang.

Van

Intercity passenger vans are fast, furious, frequent and risky. They have a dubious safety record in a country with one of worst road fatality figures anywhere. Flyer beware. Catch the bus or train instead.

Train

Thailand has a good rail network and rail travel is a great way to see the country and to meet Thai people. Trains run on time and are clean, even if the rolling stock aged. The Bangkok—Chiang Mai Express is the classic rail journey, a 750-km night ride that will rock you on the narrow, one-metre gauge track. Reserve your seat in advance especially if travelling near public holidays. For much convenience and a small fee, book through an agent.

Words and photographs © John Borthwick 2023

Art and soul on the River of Kings

Posted on 23/12/202209/01/2023 by admin

Travel writer John Borthwick takes us on a guided tour of Bangkok’s waterside Creative District.

I could laze for hours like a wannabe rajah, watching the Chao Phraya River’s all-day parade of barges, ferries and scuttling longtails. The one thing better to do is go exploring its Bangkok waterside bars and galleries in the what’s now known as the Creative District.

Narrow “soi” lanes, lined with traditional two-storey shophouses run down to the river from historic Charoen Krung Road. It is along these lanes that local creatives and entrepreneurs have turned a grimy auto spare-parts district into an intriguing zone of street murals, speakeasy bars and hole-in-the-wall eateries.

The Creative District is just a short distance from Saphan Taksin BTS station or the Si Phraya ferry pier. I head to it, exploring northwards from Soi 44 up to Soi 30. Here’s a little of what I find.

Sarnies Café, Soi 44. Yes, “sarnies” as in old Australian slang for a sanger, a sandwich. A once-decrepit boat repair shop has been flipped into a cool coffee and snack house. Like the original Sarnies in Singapore, this corner shop is all about proper coffee and what happens when Thai ingredients meet Aussie-style grub.

Jack’s Bar. Soi 42. Quite literally a watering hole at the end of the road, Jack’s shack teeters over “the River of Kings” at the end of Soi 42, aka Wat Suan Phlu. Think plastic chairs, cold beer and a hot afternoon fading to sunset. Add spicy eats and another cool sundowner.

Harmonique, Soi 34. Long-established Harmonique restaurant hides behind a blink-and-you-miss-it portal. Inside, a massive banyan tree shades stone-top tables and Chinese lanterns. The menu spans Thai and international fare but the ambience is the real dish.

Hidden Milkbar. Soi 32. This curious establishment is, I’m told, the interpretation by a Thai photographer who has lived in Australia of an Aussie-style milk bar. They serve shakes, drinks and snacks but I keep missing its opening hours, so the mystique grows.

BUKRUK Wall Art, Soi 32 to 28. Bangkok’s 2016 BUKRUK Urban Art festival saw artists from around the world invited to create street art here. Stroll along these connecting sois and be ambushed by the vivid results.

House No. 1, Soi 30. This neoclassical 1900’s building on Captain Bush Lane was Siam’s first official postal address. It once housed the trading company of Louis T. Leonowens, the W.A.-born son of Anna Leonowens — she of “The King and I” fame or infamy. Not open to the public.

Vhils Street Mural, Soi 30. Portugal’s elegant riverfront embassy, established in 1820 is the oldest diplomatic residence in Thailand. In 2017 the visiting Portuguese artist Vhils was given free rein along the embassy’s long street-front wall and hammered himself a brilliant place in mural history.

Warehouse 30, Soi 30. Seven renovated warehouses between Soi 32 and 30 form a hub of the creative district, encompassing boutiques, galleries, cafes and co-working spaces. Don’t miss what looks like an army disposal store that’s stacked with vintage clothing, music and eclectic memorabilia.

ATT 19 Gallery, Soi 30. An innovative family turned this century-old, former Chinese schoolhouse into a mixed-use retail, art and exhibition space. Design and fashion, plus exhibitions by emerging artists hum within its old teak and brick walls. And for life support there’s BAAB — the Bad Ass Asia Bar.

Jua, Soi 28. Jua bar lurks far down a shady lane in a former shophouse gambling den. Specialising in “artisanal” sake and tapas, it bills itself as “an American twist on a traditional Japanese yakitori joint.” Go on, investigate. Baan Rim Naam, Soi 22. Stretching along the riverfront, this reincarnated 19^th century warehouse is perfect for democratic afternoon drinks or just watching the river roll by like time. By night it gets more formal about its Thai tapas menu, cocktails and classic dishes, so book well ahead.

Koh Lanta Mangrove Tours with Pimalai Resort & Spa

Posted on 08/12/202227/12/2022 by admin

Pimalai Resort & Spa is highlighting the importance of conserving coastal mangrove habitat with a selection of private eco tours for guests.

Mangrove habitats are critical to the health of coastal areas, not only do they provide breeding conditions and nurseries for many species of tropical fish, but they also absorb massive amounts of carbon, and provide a natural barrier to erosive powers of the ocean.

The location for these three-hour tours is Yee Peng Village on the east coast of Koh Lanta where, a bridge will welcome guests and on the other side, a path takes one deep into the mangroves.

You can spend around 15 minutes exploring the mangrove forest on your own, then jump into a gondola or longboat to go through small canals sneaking into the mangrove.

Gondolas were traditionally used to transport mangrove timbers to charcoal factories. When mangrove forests became protected, Tung Yee Peng Villagers reinvented their boats for eco-tours.

Lanta Old Town was originally a sea gypsy settlement and several decades it transformed into a village influenced by trade. There are now many shops, restaurants and homes built on stilts.

The Old Town has a distinct Chinese influence and a very slow, laid-back feel. Walking around looking at the lanterns provides a sense of days gone by. There is no charge to visit Old Town Lanta Community Museum – a converted former Sheriff’s Office that was built during the reign of King Rama V which provides a glimpse of early community life in Koh Lanta.

Koh Lanta Lighthouse or ‘Pat-Cha-Chote-Wa-Chi-Ra-Pa’ inside Koh Lanta National Park was in service to warn mariners of dangerous shallows and perilous rocky coasts. Visitors can climb a cliff to see the lighthouse closely and enjoy the stunning view over the two bays of the Mu Koh Lanta National Park. The lighthouse and National Park Nature trail are only a 15-minute scenic drive from Pimalai.

Pimalai conducts three-hour day and sunrise mangrove tours by gondola including transfers, tour guide, snack, tea/coffee and drinking water and three-hour tours by longboat including transfers, tour guide, kayak and drinking water.

For more information, rates and bookings visit www.pimalai.com

A Bite-Sized Tour of Big Chinatown

Posted on 23/11/202223/12/2022 by admin

Bangkok at times can seems like the Thai version a Russian babushka doll. It opens to reveal neighbourhoods within villages, villages within towns and towns within the Great City of the Angels. John Borthwick takes us on a deep dive…

Bangkok’s largest town-within-a-city by far is Yaowarat, reputedly the world’s oldest, of not largest Chinatown. Wanting to drill deeper into this complex place I join an Urban Adventures’ walking tour called “Chinatown Sights and Bites”.

We start where Chinatown’s most-visited attraction Wat Traimit, the Golden Buddha Temple, is home to a massive, five-metre, 5.5-tonne Buddha statue made almost entirely of, yes, gold. Our guide, Khun Ae turns out to be an unstoppable raconteur as he unfurls a shaggy-dog legend of the 13^th century Buddha statue’s loss (centuries ago), discovery (by whom?), disguise (beneath stucco), displacement (by flood), re-discovery (by luck), revelation (by accident) and then ultimate relocation here to Chinatown.

We head on through a maze of side streets where chillied, steaming, stir-fried aromas billow from fiery woks, pinging our lungs, eyes and appetites. Khun Ae steers us down a narrow walkway alley where painted doors open onto hobbit-size homes, to arrive at a tiny, three-table eatery. He orders bowls of tom sap, a zinging, Thai-Lao soup that stars pork, ginger, galanga and lemon grass. I leave nothing but the spoon in mine.

Powered-up, we’re soon on unsung Soi Phat Sai where the Easae tea shop, run by the same Thai-Chinese family for four generations, has served traditional brews since 1927. Taking our seats at old circular tables, we maintain traditions, old and new. There’s an abacus by the cash register, a WiFi password on the wall and, as foreigners, us fitting in perfectly by sticking out.

We roll further along to Bangkok’s largest and most important Chinese shrine, the 1871 Dragon Lotus Temple — Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Beneath the fierce, bulging-eyed gaze of its giant warrior statues the city’s Chinese community come to make merit at the wat’s incense-clouded altars and then to have their fortunes told.

Soi Itsara Nuphap, Chinatown. Copyright, John Borthwick

Emerging from a backstreet, we’re suddenly on Chinatown’s famous main drag, Yaowarat Road, a broad, neon-blitzed thoroughfare that’s programmed to perpetually buy, sell and eat. In feng shui terms Yaowarat is a “golden dragon area” — that is, the ideal place for turning a baht or buck. Or preferably a million of either. If Chinatown is a golden dragon, this is its jewelled spine.

Beside apothecaries, goldsmiths and Blade Runner-style alleys we snack on delicious skewers of grilled pork and chicken fresh from a street hawker’s cart. Exotica aside, busy Yaowarat is the engine-room of the thriving Thai-Chinese economy and, in truth, is much more about high finance and trade than the Orientalism of its street show.

I can’t eat another thing, which is fine because we’re leaving behind Yaowarat’s endless progressive feast. Our final destination will be mojitos, not food. At the venerable Grand China hotel we take a lift and then follow Ae up narrow stairs to a little-known roof bar where the view of sunset across the Bangkok skyline is the real attraction. In a city that’s home to a dozen lofty sky bars boasting 360-degree views and flocks of trending mixologists, the Grand China’s less celebrated watering hole is, to be generous, only 50 percent as flash — but gloriously so. At half the altitude (23^rd floor), with half the view (only 180-degrees) and drinks at half the price, it might just be twice the fun.

Surviving Suvarnabhumi, the Secrets of Bangkok Airport

Posted on 15/11/202223/12/2022 by admin

Travel writer John Borthwick shares his top tips for navigating Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Suvarnabhumi Airport, aka Bangkok Airport, is pronounced in elegant, Thai-style tones as Soo-wanna-poom. And not phonetically as blunt Sue Varna Boomy. Alternatively, is known among many expats by the nickname, “Swampy”. Ironically so, since the airport was built on a former wetland known as the Cobra Swamp.

Where is it?

Well-designed and well-run Suvarnabhumi is 35km by road from central Bangkok. The easiest way to reach it is by the Airport Link train from downtown Makkasan or Phaya Thai stations. The 26-minute trip costing 45 baht (A$1.80) delivers you to the basement level of the airport. Alternatively, a taxi that takes a little, or much, longer depending on traffic, costs around 400 baht (A$16) and brings you right to the Departures hall doors.

The Big Picture

The terminal which opened in 2006 is a long, low structure that resembles a series of angular, wave-like forms. The world’s tallest free-standing control tower looms 132 metres over it. Departures, at the highest of the airport’s five levels, occupies an open-plan space with high ceilings. As Thailand’s principal domestic and international air hub, and servicing over 65 million passengers a year, Suvarnabhumi gets busy and is vast, so plan accordingly. It is wheelchair-friendly, has electric transfer buggies (by arrangement), lifts to all levels and accessible toilets. Face masks are not required.

Departure Checking-In

Check-in rows for the multiple airlines stretch across the entire, length of the Departures level. Signage in English and information screens direct you to the appropriate row. Traffic flow is efficient but Suvarnabhumi is very spread-out so take account of the long walking distances in the full departure sequence. If you’ve purchased eligible duty-free goods and hold the necessary VAT refund papers you need to have the items inspected (don’t pack them in your checked luggage) and have the forms certified while you are still “landside”. That is, before passing through Security and Immigration. This VAT processing desk is at the far righthand end of the Departures hall.

Security

After checking-in you proceed upstairs to Security at the mezzanine level and then down to Immigration, where queues can be long. Tip: towards the righthand end of the Departures hall is a dedicated but low-key entrance for Buddhist monks, infirm passengers and “Over 70” seniors, including foreigners. Definitely use it if you’re eligible. Security is thorough and polite, and involves the usual laptops out, belts off, no liquids, and similar shakedown. But it doesn’t end there. Later, at the boarding gate to Australia-bound flights (and selected others) there is a final, manual inspection of carry-on items for all passengers. Again, allow plenty of time.

Killing Time

Having cleared Immigration you descend a wide ramp, at the foot of which is a long, large, colourful sculpture from Hindu (not Buddhist) mythology depicting an episode called the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Other than this there are few features of Thai cultural note, with shopping and imbibing being the main events. If shopping bores you, head to an airline lounge should you have access. Free WiFi is available in most areas.

Booze and chews

“Landside” (before Security and Immigration) on level three there are numerous restaurants, bars and cafes. Similar outlets are also located “airside”, offering Japanese, Western, Korean, fast-food franchises and of course Thai food.

Water fountain for able and disabled users, at Suvanabhum Airport.

Retail Ambush

After Immigration if you’re eligible for a duty-free goods refund present your paperwork at the dedicated VAT desk. You’ll be paid in Thai baht, which you can then spend on more duty-free goods such as spirits, electronics, photographic gear, cosmetics and the usual brand-name apparel, although nothing is notably cheap. Several large outlets specialise Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, silks and packaged foods.

Other Stuff

Baggage storage: if you’re in transit or for whatever reason need to store luggage, there are two Left Luggage counters, at Level two and Level Four. 100THB/day per item. Level Two (Arrivals) has rows of bank counters, car hire offices, ATMs, SIM card sales outlets and hotel booking booths. If departing from the airport to the city or other Thai towns, head downstairs to the taxis and coaches on the ground floor, or further down to the basement for the Airport Link train. Also at this lowest level are money changing booths offering probably the best rates you’ll find anywhere, as well as short-term sleeping accommodation. More: bangkokairport.net

Thailand’s Ten Best Beaches

Posted on 15/10/202202/11/2022 by admin

Guest blogger John Borthwick gets plenty of sand between his toes in researching the best of the Kingdom’s shoreline.

Ao Manao, Prachuap Khiri Khan. The postcard-perfect arc of Ao Manao, or “Lime Bay” — aptly named for its pale-green waters — sits just south of Prachuap Khiri Khantown. The sands are wide, the waters clear and small beachfront eateries dish up fresh soft-shell crabs and tom yam soup.

Rock-climbing at Railay Beach — Railay Beach, Krabi

Rai Leh Beach, Krabi. Rai Leh (aka Railay) sits on isolated Phra Nang peninsula, a longtail boat ride from Ao Nang. Towering limestone heights and turquoise depths attract spider-persons who climb Rai Leh’s vertical cliffs. Meanwhile other visitors just want to wallow in the general, Andaman Sea beauty.

Aow Yai beach and Andaman Sea, Ko Phayam island, Ranong.

Ao Yai Beach, Koh Phayam, Ranong. Little Phayam Island floats off Thailand’s west coast, seemingly in the Sea of Amnesia. Its gem, Ao Yai Beach offers three km of wide, sands, an easy shorebreak and monsoon season surf. Late afternoon gets gorgeous when the cicadas and the sunset crank up their volumes.

Ba Kan Tiang Beach, Koh Lanta, Krabi. Sit below a fire-and-brimstone sunset, looking west from Ba Kan Tiang’s swoop of pure sand and water music, and you know why you came to Koh Lanta. “The island of long beaches” has many but this one also offers good accommodation plus views of the uninhabited Koh Haa islets.

Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, Surat Thani. Samui has plenty of beaches, with long, broad Chaweng and next door, the smaller Lamai being the most popular ones. The Gulf waters are clear and calm, the sands are well stocked with trinket peddlers and there are bars, restaurants and shops galore if that’s what you’ve come for.

Hat Sai Khao, Koh Chang, Trat. Also known as White Sand Beach (“Off-White Sand Beach” might be a more accurate), Hat Sai Khao is a sweeping shoreline on the country’s second largest island. With ample accommodation and commerce it is made for a seafood-eating, novel-reading, do-little sort of holiday.

Jomtien Beach, Chonburi. Jomtien is your retreat when the partying at nearby Pattaya becomes too much, or you just want more space on the sand. Five-km long Jomtien has cleaner water, whiter sands and fewer motorised aquatic dangers than its neighbour. And when the sun goes down there is much good dining at the beachfront row eateries.

Mai Khao Beach, Phuket. Stretching along the northwest coast of Phuket, and far from the clamorous Patong-Karon-Kata strip, you’ll find Mai Khao (“White Wood”) Beach. This 17-km skein of dreams is the sort of shore where beachcombing careers are made. More importantly, it is also a national park and sea turtle-nesting zone.

Na Dan Beach, Khanom, Nakhon Si Thammarat. Remember when a beach was a beach and not a shopping mall with sand? Na Dan is stilllike that — no hawkers, looning power craft or hectares of rental chairs. Remote and dreamy, it remains palm-fringed with nine km of shoreline and vast blue skies above.

Natai Beach, Phang Nga. Cross Saladan Bridge at the northern tip of Phuket and you enter another world, mainland Phang Nga province, a place of long, casuarina-shaded beaches and small rural towns. Here the empty, snoozy Andaman shore of Natai Beach is home to a turtle sanctuary, seafood stalls and tranquility.

Beach Survival Tips

— Rips. Andaman waters can appear deceptively calm but there are often currents and undertows. Fatalities happen. Almost no beaches have lifeguards.

— Jetskis. Unsuspecting tourists are frequently forced to pay for mythical “damages” by unscrupulous jet-ski hirers, notably in Pattaya and Phuket. Simply do not hire or use one.

— Speedboats. Popular beaches in Pattaya, Phuket and elsewhere are alive with transfer speedboats, parasailer tow craft, banana boats and jetskis. Injuries happen. Use a swimming enclosure with pontoons if there is one.