A Conscious Traveller’s Guide to Phuket

The last decade has been one of huge change for Phuket, with both government and private enterprise coming together to redefine and protect the destination for years to come. Travel writer Chris Ashton shares insights on how to be a responsible traveller in Phuket.

A little slice of tropical perfection in the Andaman Sea, Phuket welcomes almost 10 million visitors each year. With such high visitation, the small island has grappled with the effects of over tourism for years, yet that could be a thing of the past as the island looks to reinvent itself as one of the most sustainable destinations in Thailand.

There’s the No Foam No Plastic campaign which has been encouraging hotels and retail outlets to swap single use plastics for more sustainable options since early 2019. A ban on smoking on beaches has also helped to reduce the number of butts making their way into the environment, as well as make beaches a more enjoyable place for all visitors.

Image: Mai Khao Turtle Foundation

In the hotel space, a collaboration between JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Minor Hotels (Anantara, Avani) is working to fund environmental programs that support fragile marine life, such as leatherback turtles which return to nest on the beaches of Mai Khao.

How can you make a difference as a visitor to Phuket? By being conscious of your impact on the community and environment, by choosing to stay at hotels and resorts that take green initiatives seriously, and by seeking out ethical, sustainable activities wherever possible. 

Keen to know more? Here’s a conscious travellers’ guide to Phuket.

Where to stay

If there’s one industry with the power to create a more sustainable Phuket, it’s hospitality.

Resorts such as five-star Keemala in the island’s west understand this responsibility, with a strong commitment to environmental and ethical practices. From the villa design to the landscaping, everything has been carefully considered to help ensure a greener future.

Banyan Tree Wellbeing Sanctuary Phuket has won numerous awards for its environmental practices too, working with eco-advisory EarthCheck to minimise its impact on the planet.

Where to dine

Farm to plate dining is so hot right now, and Phuket is not immune to its charm. Knowing and understanding where our food comes from, where it’s grown and sourced, and the passion that goes into every dish adds to the experience. It can also be a lot of fun.

The Michelin-star rated PRU Restaurant, which stands for “plant, raise, understand”, at Trisara Resort is a big advocate of the farm to plate ethos. Around 60-70% of the fruit and vegetables used within the 18-seater restaurant comes from their own 100-hectare farm.

Image: Jampa Restaurant

They’re not alone either. Local Phuket restaurant and caterer Jampa has a zero waste, locally sourced approach to cooking, and they’re never far away from a wood fire. Sustainability is at the forefront of their minds and their menus – and it shows.

What to do

When not lounging on a deserted beach or visiting the Big Buddha at Nakkerd Hill, cycling and walking tours are a fun way to get a more local perspective of the island, visiting smaller villages and contributing to communities.

Phuket Elephant Sanctuary, a home for retired elephants, and the Gibbon Rehabilitation Project do incredible work protecting the endangered animals of the island. If you want to learn about wildlife conservation from ethical operators, these are essential.

Image: Gibbon Rehabilitation Centre

Wherever you stay or whatever you do, being conscious of your impact on the environment can help ensure Phuket remains an island paradise worth falling in love with. 

7 Great Sustainable Tour Companies in Thailand

A renewed focus on sustainable tourism in Thailand has seen a rise of tourism-focussed social enterprises and community tourism experiences. Here’s our pick of 7 stand-out sustainable tour experiences in Thailand.

1. Hivesters

HiveSters, a tour company founded by two sisters with a family background in travel, has a mission to preserve authentic Thai culture by empowering local masters to share their skills. Their extensive range of tours includes a foodie experience in Phuket’s Old Town and a natural detox on an organic farm near Chiang Mai. Hivesters.com

2. Nutty’s Adventures.

Award-winning responsible tourism company Nutty’s Adventures specialises in community-based tours, from going off-the-beaten-track in Phayao Province in Northern Thailand, to working alongside farmers in rice paddies in Nakhon Pathom. Nutty-adventures.com

3. Courageous Kitchen

Offering several food-related experiences, including market tours, street food tours, family cooking classes and noodle-making demonstrations Courageous Kitchen provides a fun and informative tourism experience while helping marginalised youth and children in Bangkok. Courageouskitchen.org

4. Hands Across the Water

Hands Across the Water’s annual Ride to Provide is an epic long-distance bike ride, covering 800 scenic kilometres along the Gulf of Thailand in eight days. Money raised provides critical funding for this remarkable charity, providing a future for impoverished orphans. Handsacrossthewater.org.au

5. Socialgiver

Launched in 2015, Socialgiver aims to bridge the gap between local business owners, consumer ans social projects, providing a shopping platform, selling everything from homeware and baked goods to resort stays and day tours, with profits donated to social projects throughout Thailand. Socialgiver.com

6. Local Alike

Local Alike is a travel company that offers a wide range of immersive community-based responsible tourism experiences, taking travellers off the beaten path with an opportunity to contribute to the preservation of environment, culture, and local ways of life. localalike.com

7. SiamRise Travel

SiamRise Travel specialises in cultural tours and homestay experiences. All activities and experiences have been co-created with locals to consider the social impact and create a positive impact in the local environment, education, economy, and society.  siamrisetravel.com

Phuket and Ko Samui open to a more sustainable future in tourism

Image: Shutterstock

With Phuket and Ko Samui now open to fully vaccinated international visitors, local tourism operators are hoping to welcome guests back to a rejuvenated and more sustainable Thailand.

While the world stood still, across Thailand, operators have been working to improve infrastructure, care for the local environment and learn how to operate more sustainably. Operators in Phuket and Ko Samui have paid particular attention to their precious coastal and marine environment.

Some improvements have been intentional, most notably the closure of tourist hot spots, Maya Bay, Ko Tachai and Ko Yoong areas within the marine parks. Some changes have taken place naturally due to the absence of mass tourism, such as endangered leatherback turtles returning to Phuket’s sandy shores to lay their eggs.

Sharks return to Maya Bay

Danny Boyle’s film ‘The Beach’ made Maya Bay as famous as it is. The depiction of a hedonistic secret paradise in Thailand’s hidden crystal-clear bay encouraged a huge surge in tourism to the area. Despite the fact that ‘The Beach’ was supposed to be located in the Gulf of Thailand, closer to Samui, Ko Phang Ngan and Ko Tao, Maya Bay was the location chosen for the film, for its magnificent limestone cliffs and enticing turquoise waters. This fame came at a price, influencing thousands of tourists to visit the small bay.

With hundreds of speedboats and hordes of people littering the bay each day, a visit to the iconic Thai attraction was no longer a thing of beauty, it was downright unpleasant. The authorities closed Maya Bay completely back in 2018, to help regenerate and preserve the bay, and the results have been outstanding.

The closure of Maya Bay is a testament to Thailand’s efforts to address the negative impacts of tourism on marine life. According to Thailand’s Department of National Parks, Maya Bay is now home to well over 100 black-tip reef sharks, the highest shark population in Thai waters.

Leatherback turtles nest in Phuket

With the closure of beaches during Phuket’s first lockdown and the drastic reduction in tourist numbers and light pollution, rare Leatherback turtles have returned to the beaches to lay their eggs. Leatherbacks are the world’s largest species of sea turtles and are listed as endangered in Thailand. Dr Kongkiat Kittiwatanawong, the director of the Phuket Marine Biological Center, said this is the greatest number of leatherback sea turtle nests that Thailand’s beaches have seen in 20 years.

Boat Operators cleanup Ko Tao

Over in the gulf of Thailand, the small island if Ko Tao has been particularly affected by border closures, with some 90 per cent of the island’s boat operators now out of work.

The UNDP Biodiversity Finance (BIOFIN) initiative has launched a new crowdfunding campaign that will place 200 of the island’s laid-off boat operators into an alternate stream of work: cleaning up the island.

Ko Tao has struggled to manage the estimated 30 tons of waste a day left by tourists in recent years, and this year’s lull has provided its marine ecosystems with much-needed respite.

“Without tourists, the coral reef ecosystem is recovering quite well,” says Niran Nirannoot, project manager for BIOFIN in Thailand. “But there are some areas where we need to provide support for conservation. The local government is aware that if they do not preserve the ecosystem, they may not be able to attract tourists to come back.”

Starting in December, the 200 boat operators are being paid a monthly sum of THB 3,000 (USD 100) – raised entirely through the crowdfunding campaign – to clear waste and marine debris from the island’s beaches and waters. They will also be provided with training in financial literacy, courtesy of Krung Thai Bank (KTB), one of the project’s main sponsors.

So far, the campaign has raised THB 1.81 million (USD 60,000), with KTB chipping in THB 583,000 (USD 19,000). Donations from within Thailand make up over 90 percent of contributions.

Sustainable Diving: Andaman Sea

Phuket-based Holger Schwab, Managing Director of Sea Bees Diving, says, “Pandemics may be awful, but they are teaching us valuable lessons. Most of those lessons relate to humans’ treatment of the Earth. It’s possible that these lessons will spark a long-term change in conservation. Perhaps this means a different type of tourism model in the future, slower and more considerate of the ecosystem we are working within”.

Scuba diving in the Andaman Sea can often offer some of the best experiences in the world, thanks to its dazzling and colourful marine life, with world-class dive sites including Richelieu Rock, Ko Ha, Hin Deang and Hin Muang.

During the first stages of reopening the region to tourism, Phuket can now offer much richer underwater experiences to visitors, with the most sought-after diving spots now much quieter and a joy to dive.

“We are seeing an increase in certain species, there’s more anemonefish and barracuda in the Andaman Sea than ever before.

“A more sustainable approach to enjoying our underwater world has been needed for a long time, and we hope that the effects of the pandemic prove to be positive in this regard for the marine parks in the Andaman region”.

Tourism Authority of Thailand supports local Beach Clean-up in Sydney’s Chowder Bay

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Sydney Office, in collaboration with the Royal Thai Consulate in Sydney, took part in a beach and underwater clean-up event at Chowder Bay.

The event was held at Clifton Gardens Reserve, on the foreshore of Chowder Bay, with Thai massages and a delicious Thai lunch provided by Spice I Am for volunteers, followed by a Thai Cooking Demonstration by Chef Sujet Saenkham Founder and Owner of Spice I am Restaurant and Thai Performance by Siam Classic Dance Group at Taronga Zoo.

According to TAT Director, Suladda Sarutilavan; “in efforts to show our appreciation for those local heroes volunteering their time to protect our oceans we are proud to support the effort of local conservation group Friends of Chowder Bay.

“The travel restrictions imposed on us all by the COVID-19 pandemic has inspired, in many of us, a heightened awareness and appreciation for our precious natural environment. Many tourism operators in Thailand have spent time in lock-down looking at ways to operate more sustainably.”

40 volunteers took part, including seven scuba divers, who spent a combined 456 minutes underwater collecting over 2kg of debris, much of this fishing debris with an estimated 200m of discarded fishing line, 63 metal hooks and sinkers and 25 plastic fishing lures.

Above water, volunteers collected 191 cigarette butts, 54 straws and other plastic cutlery items, an estimated 250 plastic fragments, 120 plastic bag remnants, 155 polystyrene fragments and 27 balloon fragments.

Data from the underwater clean-up was uploaded to the Project Aware global debris database, while topside clean-up data was uploaded to Tangaroa Blue’s Marine Debris Initiative, helping campaigners and scientists find solutions for marine pollution.

Organiser and co-founder of the Friends of Chowder Bay, Diveplanit Travel’s Deborah Dickson-Smith explains the significance of Chowder Bay:

“Thailand’s underwater world shares many wonders (and indeed critters!) with Australia and suffers similar threats – from plastic pollution and fishing debris. Mosman’s Chowder Bay is a unique biodiverse marine environment, home to many colourful critters including frogfish, decorator crabs, moray eels and the endangered Whites (Sydney) Seahorse.”

Scientists have recently installed ‘Seahorse Hotels’ at Chowder Bay in attempts to regenerate their dwindling population. Volunteers were treated to a presentation from marine scientist and SEALIFE Sydney Aquarium aquarist Mitchell Brennan, who is monitoring the seahorses’ progress.

The Friends of Chowder Bay are doing their best to keep the ‘hotels’ clean from plastic waste and fishing debris as part of their regular underwater and beach clean-ups. 

The show of support from TAT and the Royal Thai Consulate Sydney highlights efforts to promote Thailand as a sustainable tourism destination, with tourism operators in Thailand encouraged to conserve their local environment, use local produce, support local communities, and minimise their carbon footprint.

One such example is a new offering from Sunsail yacht charters. The company has partnered with Ocean Crusaders for a Phuket Clean-up Flotilla in March 2022, a week of sailing the Andaman Sea and undertaking beach clean-ups to help preserve this beautiful part of South East Asia.

More information:

Koh Tarutao National Park: prisoners & pirates to paradise

This used to be Thailand’s version of Devils Island, the infamous French prison off the coast of South America. Like it, Koh Tarutao was surrounded by sea and totally removed from public scrutiny. Fortunately, things change and Tarutao is now a pristine national park. Gone are its prison guards and convicts, but not the bizarre tale of how they teamed together during World War II to become pirates. Continue reading “Koh Tarutao National Park: prisoners & pirates to paradise”

Sustainable Phuket

Phuket is ticking plenty of boxes for responsible travellers looking for sustainable accommodation and attractions. Travel editor Aleney De Winter shows how to plan a sustainable holiday in Phuket.

Nai Han Beach, Phuket

With its balmy evening breezes, swaying palms and stretches of glorious white-sand beach, it’s no big surprise that Phuket is at the top of most Aussies’ Thailand holiday hit parade. But while fun-filled Phuket has long provided a wonderful tropical break with hospitable locals, luxurious resorts and irresistible food, these days it’s also ticking all the boxes for responsible travellers looking for sustainable tourism offerings.

Responsible travellers play a part in protecting the environment and cultural welfare of the destinations they visit, and the Thai Government is making it easier than ever for visitors to do just that, taking drastic steps to improve sustainability throughout the Kingdom and ensure that the impacts of tourism are positive.

The government has not only temporarily closed access to those ecosystems most at risk – including iconic Maya Bay on the island of Phi Phi Leh, which will remain closed until 2021 to allow its ravaged reefs to recoverthey have implemented a bold series of admirable environmental measures.

Patong Beach, Phuket

This starts with a total smoking ban on 20 Thailand beaches, including Phuket’s busy Patong Beach and those on the nearby Phang Nga Islands, where cigarette butts have become a major pollutant, toxic to the marine life. The No Foam No Plastic campaign has seen a ban on single-use plastics in all 154 national and regional parks around the country, and will see single-use plastic bags and foam containers eradicated entirely by 2021.

Sustainable Hotels

For visitors wanting to make a positive impact on the environment and support local communities in doing so, here’s how to enjoy a sustainable stay, in five-star style.

Start by choosing a hotel with strong stance on sustainability. Keemala is one five-star resort committed to best environmental practices. The plastic free luxurious retreat set in the Kamala rainforest is highly regarded for their sustainable garden-to-table culinary approach, plastic waste free policy, ethically sourced materials, and commitment towards the ethical treatment of animals. Guests can also support hotels such as the JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa, Marriott Vacation Club International and Anantara Hotels and Resorts that support environmental conservation projects like the Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation whose Nesting Beach Patrols and Hatchery protect and assist endangered turtles.

Sustainable dining

Five-star dining needn’t come at the cost of the environment either. Phuket’s only Michelin starred restaurant, Pru Restaurant at Trisara Resort, offers a delectable farm-to-table experience using produce grown organically at Trisara’s working farm, foraged locally or sourced from local farmers, fishermen and purveyors engaged in sustainable processes.

Sustainable tours and attractions

And just because Maya Bay is off limits, it doesn’t mean visitors can’t still explore unspoilt stretches of the Andaman Sea. Paddle Asia’s low impact kayak expeditions are the ideal way to explore Phuket’s most pristine sections of coastline while protecting the marine ecosystem.

Phuket Elephant Sanctuary credit Raymond Gerritson
Photo: Raymond Gerritson

It should go without saying that it is best to avoid any attraction in Phuket that exploits wildlife. Skip elephant rides and performances for a conservation-based elephant experience. Phuket Elephant Sanctuary offers one of the best.  A home for retired working elephants, the emphasis here is on ethical, animal-friendly interaction with elephants, as they are rehabilitated into forest life after being rescued or retired from logging and elephant trekking.

The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project in Paklok is another sanctuary that’s doing its bit to rescued mistreated gibbons that have been kept in captivity or used for the tourist trade, with an aim of rehabilitating and releasing them back into the wild. Visitors can learn about the plight of the gibbons at the environment and wildlife centre, as well as watching some of the resident gibbons from the purpose-built viewing platforms.

Slow and Sustainable in Chiang Rai

Tucked into the mountainous jungles of northern Thailand near the border of Laos and Myanmar, the city of Chiang Rai has always been the smaller, less glamorous cousin of the more popular Chiang Mai, largely ignored by international tourists and developing at a slower pace. Julie Miller shares five of Chiang Rai’s hidden sustainable treasures.

With its diversity of ethnicities, natural wonders, beautiful temples and rich culture untainted by over-tourism, Chiang Rai has really come into its own and is leading a new wave of sustainable and eco-tourism practices that are a beacon for the future of world travel.

Here are five hidden treasures and exciting initiatives that highlight the best of the northern Lanna culture and its connection to the land:

Anantara Golden Triangle - Walking with Giants experience

1. Elephant Live Stream

The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation at the Anantara Golden Triangle has for over a decade pioneered the ethical treatment of elephants, with its camp where mahouts and pachyderms co-exist in a safe, peaceful and natural setting a benchmark of sustainability. With the COVID-19 crisis preventing tourists from visiting the elephants, GTAEF pivoted to bring the elephants to their many fans via a live stream. The footage following the elephants as they play, feed and bathe in the river is utterly charming and addictive, with input from local vets and experts adding an educational dimension. The live stream not only brings joy to elephant-lovers, it also prompts viewers to donate towards helping struggling elephants.

Phu Chaisai

2. Phu Chaisai Mountain Resort

Owned by a Thai designer of royal heritage, this lovely boutique resort set on 323 hectares in the misty Mae Salong mountains encourages immersion in the natural environment, incorporating wellness and lifestyle into the luxury holiday experience. Organic and sustainable are a way of life here; the resort has its own reservoir, a spring-fed waterfall, a tea plantation, fruit orchards and farmland, with the restaurant plucking fresh vegetables and herbs straight from its own kitchen garden. Activities include trekking, riding Mongolian horses on a neighbouring farm, private yoga sessions and a spa.

Chiang Rai monks on horseback

3. Monks on horseback:

Horses came to the Golden Triangle from China during the infamous drug-trafficking years, and their sturdy descendants are now not only used for tourist rides (see above), but are also the mount-of-choice for local monks, who ride into villages each morning to collect alms. The temple where these monks live, Wat Tam Pa Ar-cha Thong (Golden Horse Monastery), is located high in steep, remote hills, with the orange-robed monks and novices also riding down to Phu Chaisai Resort every morning to offer blessings to guests.

Cool-Season-Activities-Doi-Tung

4. Doi Tung

The most famous of the Royal Projects of the Princess Mother, Doi Tung was established in 1988 to provide alternative forms of employment for ethnic minorities who were forced into the illicit drug trade, empowering local villagers to create change and restoring the ravaged environment. The result is a vision of beauty, 15,000 hectares of cultivated gardens, coffee plantations, re-established forest and artisan workshops centrepieced by the Princess Mother’s teak Royal Villa, which now tells the story of the project. Thirty years after the inception of the program, Doi Tung is now a model of sustainability with a zero waste to landfill mantra, managed by a new generation of local leaders.

Posted by Jinnaluck Miracle of Saa on Friday, 20 December 2019

5. Jinnaluck

Jinnaluck is a burgeoning family-run cottage industry that produces and exports sublime paper products for the local and international market. Starting as a backyard venture over 25 years ago, it now employs more than160 local people, incorporating all aspects of paper production from growing raw materials, to making the paper, design and sales. The company is one of the largest mulberry, or saa paper producers in Thailand, with more than 3000 handmade products, including business cards, carry bags, wrapping paper, wallpaper and even gold-infused face-masks – available at their sales room near Mae Sai. Visitors can also undertake a paper-making workshop, a memorable and meaningful travel experience.

Off the beaten track in Ko Samui

Na Muang Waterfall, Ko Samui

For those who want to see another dimension to island life, Travel Writer Julie Miller takes us off the beaten track in Ko Samui.

Coastal life is sweet in Ko Samui, with an abundance of chic resorts, lively bars and restaurants and boutique shopping just steps from pristine white crescents of powder-white sand. For many visitors, this is the recipe for an idyllic, decadent holiday; but for the adventurous, or those who simply want to see more of the island, the interior of Ko Samui presents another dimension to island life, one that offers a deeper connection to Thai culture and the landscapes that make Thailand such an intriguing destination.

Samui is a relatively small, round island, easily explored by rental car (motorcycles not recommended unless you’re a licensed rider). One main ring-road leads to all the major sights and beaches, but swing off the highway into the heavily-jungled mountainous interior for spectacular views and some respite from the coastal chaos.

Before you leave the shoreline, you can’t miss two of Samui’s most popular – if somewhat questionable – attractions. One is a mummified monk, resplendent in orange robes and Rayban sunglasses, propped up in a glass case outside Wat Khunaram; the other is two natural rock formations near Lamai Beach, called Hin Ta and Hin Yai. Ta (Grandfather) is a stumpy phallus rising provocatively amongst some coastal boulders; while Yai (Grandmother) is a large crevice awash with sea water, seemingly awaiting grandpop’s attention. A curious landmark to become an attraction – but hey, this is Thailand!

A popular place for families to relax and swim is the scenic twin waterfalls, Na Muang #1 and #2. Located about 12 kilometres inland from Nathon Bay, the first falls are just a short walk from the carpark, with the upper pools accessed by a more challenging hike rewarded by incredible views from the top. With vendors selling snacks and drinks nearby, it’s easy to spend a whole day cooling off at these falls, with the best time to visit during peak water-flow from September to November.

Ko Samui Secret Buddha Garden

Hidden deep in the interior of Ko Samui is a secret sculpture garden, filled with images of deities from Buddhist mythology and fantasy creatures. The Secret Buddha Garden is the creation of retired durian farmer Nim Thongsuk, who started decorating the garden in 1976 and continued until his death in 2000 at the age of 91. Getting to this intriguing fantasyland can be challenging – the road is steep, best tackled in a 4WD vehicle. Alternatively, you can visit the gardens as part of an adventure day trip in an open jeep.

The Fisherman's Village in the Bophut area is one of the best-known tourist attractions in Koh Samui and home to a popular Friday walking street market.

For a taste of ‘real’ Thailand, head to Bophut on the island’s north coast on Friday evenings, when the working fishermen’s village is transformed into a ‘walking street’ marketplace. It’s fun and crowded, with local handicrafts, trinkets, clothing and delicious street food sold in dozens of stalls lining the main street. Stop off in a bohemian village bar or dine at one of its funky restaurants such as Cafe 69, 2 Fishes or Happy Elephant.

Samui Elephant Sanctuary
Happy elephants feast at Samui Elephant Sanctuary.

Speaking of happy elephants … Bophut is also the location for the Samui Elephant Sanctuary, one of two ethical rescue centres on the island in partnership with renowned conservationist Lek Chailert from Chiang Mai’s Elephant Nature Park. Both the sanctuary in Bophut and the newly opened Chaweng Noi location provide a dignified and safe retirement home for elephants who have been given a reprieve from a hard life in the logging and trekking industries.

At both sanctuaries – accessible only by pre-arranged tours – visitors can observe the gentle giants relishing their freedom, playing in the mud, bathing in a purpose-built pool and walking and foraging in the forest. The program is mostly hands-off to allow the elephants a stress-free existence, but guests can join in the daily feeding program for up-close and intimate interaction with these incredible beasts.

Elephant Hills Safari experience in Khao Sok National Park

Elephant Hills credit Pete McGee (12 of 13)Elephant Hills Safari Tours, recently highly commended in the recent Thailand Green Excellence Awards, provide a unique Thai experience for visitors to Thailand looking for looking to get up close and personal with Thai wildlife.According to Elephant Hills CEO Chris; “Our approach at Elephant Hills is not to ride elephants and to abstain from elephant shows in order to offer a more responsible, unique and rewarding experience for both elephants and humans.

“We also aim at maintaining the highest level of animal welfare; guests get to feed, wash and interact with Asia’s largest land animal. This is an excellent opportunity to get up really close and personal with these gentle giants in a responsible way and at the same time learn about their status and situation in Thailand.”

Elephant Hills

Your typical Elephant Hills Safari Tour takes two to three days, staying in either one or both of their tented sites in the Khao Sok National Park.

The Safari starts with an early pickup from your hotel in Phuket or Krabi and you’re provided with water and peanuts to sustain on the 2.5 hour journey to our first camp, at Elephant Hills.

On arrival you’re greeted with a slap up buffet lunch and shown to your glamping accommodation, before embarking on a kayak tour down the Sok river. After this you’re taken to the elephant camp a few minutes away.

Feeding Elephants, Elephant Hills Safari

Here you meet the elephants and are given a comprehensive lesson on everything from their behaviour in the wild, their use in the now defunct logging industry and what has eventually brought these beasts here, to a sanctuary in the far south of Thailand, a long way from home.

There is little natural environment left for Asian elephants to survive in, a legacy of the logging industry which has left disconnected pockets of rainforest throughout Thailand. So it’s hard for elephants to survive as they normally would, but also, some of these beasts have been domesticated for so long they’ve forgotten how.

Elephants bathing, Elephant Hills Safari

There are now many national parks in Thailand, the result of a grass roots-led environmental movement that started back in the 1980s. A movement that ended the logging industry, stopped the construction of a dam in central Thailand that would have had a devastating impact on the environment, and which has now created a generation of conservationists.

Limestone peaks, Khao Sok National park

Thais visit their own national parks more than any other nationality – the parks are not there purely for the benefit of international tourists like me. Looking after the natural Environment is a value that fits well with Buddhist philosophy, so after success of the grass roots environmental movement back in the 80s, it became something taught to the younger generation of Thais in schools by Buddhist monks.

And then there’s places like this, educational centres that introduce tourists to these magnificent creatures. These elephants have travelled from North and Central Thailand, and brought with them their Karen Mahouts who, dressed in colourful traditional garb, click, cluck and slap their cheeky charges into line as guests learn how to give them a scrub, before preparing a lunch of pineapple, bananas, sugarcane and elephant grass. In the evening, guests are treated to a dance recital by some local school kids and given a Thai cooking demonstration.

Limestone peaks, Khao Sok National park

The next day guests are taking to Camp Two: a floating camp on Cheaw Lan Lake. Here you can take part in a 3-hour trek through the jungle, climbing one of the tall limestone pinnacles to reach a large cave.

Kayaking Khao Sok National Park

Back lakeside, the rest of the day and the following morning can be spent swimming and kayaking in the lake, or simply relaxing while listening to the surrounding creatures, cicadas, hornbills and gibbons having fun in the jungle.

For more information, visit the Elephant Hills website.